openrcforums

Here you go: http://fr.farnell.com/c-k-components/ts ... dp/1908271

Did I jumper the right four? I did a "kaos" install with wires instead of pins. Im having the same problem he had, no left or up. Its a sky9x rev b board.

Nevermind, i got it. This is the right way I think. Now everthing works except my up and down keys are reversed?

switch the wires from up key to down key. when you solder the wires, the board is flipped upside down.

MikeB wrote:Remove C78 and C66. The new REV 3 board doesn't have these and the encoder work very well at high speed.

Mike.

Mike, My REV3 board has C78 and C66 on pins 11 and 14 I think.
Should I take them out while I'm fitting the encoder please?
Many thanks,

Clive

Do NOT remove the parts from a REV 3 board...they are not whats being talked about - REV B only.

-Brent

Ok, understood, thanks Brent!

Well just swapped the two Up and Down wires around and now everything is fine!

I just read the thread and if understand it correctly, for the original board you have to add 3 resistors, as per Mike's drawing, right? That means that the boards that Hippo makes have to be modded for the resistors, correct?

The resistor values are as in the picture, I take it, or what value are they?

The three resistors are for connecting an encoder to the stock 9X main board. They let the processor use three of the LCD lines as both input (for the added encoder) and output pins (for LCD data), rather than just LCD output.

Iksbob, and what are their values?

Also, I'm sure a few bought the boards that Hippo makes and use them on the stock main board yet no one reported using them or modding the Hippo board.

I think they were 3k9, I had asked at one point Mike had verified which one it was, its in another thread somewhere, but I don't have time to find it just this second. I will hint it down later unless someone beats me to it

Found the thread. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1525. He mentioned it in the first post. The picture was posted here too but I was not sure which one to use.

Here I am ready to order form DigiKey and...not in stock. Expected in stock March 17. They have the white, though, but I don't think it will look good, even if I paint the transmitter. And, it will get dirty real fast.

FYI, Mouser has the same part. Last I checked they had black in stock but were out of white...
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... N-CB222LFS

Thanks, jbeebo. When I looked at it I saw the white color and left the page. I didn't see that the part number is for the black.

JustinTime wrote:Found the thread. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1525. He mentioned it in the first post.

Yep. It's on the diagram as well. I can vouch for that circuit's functionality.
The resistors don't need to be surface mount, though it does clean things up a little. Through-hole resistors can be put in-line on the wires between the encoder board and 9X main board.

Iksbob wrote:The resistors don't need to be surface mount, though it does clean things up a little. Through-hole resistors can be put in-line on the wires between the encoder board and 9X main board.

Actually, that's exactly what I was planing to do. I'm going to put a little board where the wire from the chip meet the wire from the encoder. Just like Mike did. On this little board I'm going to put the resistors.

That is exactly what I did..

are these resistor needed for the Sky9x board at all? I see this is under sky9x thread. Mike was working on the stock board I believe.

What I read so far is that it is needed only for the stock board which is why I'm going to put the resistors on the little board described in my previous post. That way, if I decide to change the stock board I don't have to change the the encoder board. I'm going to make the encoder on plugs so that I can disconnect the encoder without desoldering.

Today I ordered two 2,4Ghz antennas from farnell and since to pay with credit card there is a minimum order. I remembered the encoder mod and ordered the TSW B-3N-CB222 LFS 7 function encoder. I have the telemetrez board and it allows to install an encoder easy. Does Hippo still selling the PCB? I'm reading this forum time ago but just registered today so I'm unable to PM him.

kaos wrote:Hippo: I don't have an exploded view of the mod I mentioned , but this pic should tell pretty much about the trimming on the side and the predrilled holes for screws to fix the board. Actually, it won't hurt to trim the other side for 1mm too. in mine, the side under the HK light is a tight fit to the LCD edge, I am sure some will be just a little off and won't fit right in.

download/file.php?id=2216

That looks tight..
What I ended up doing is pulling out the dremel and shaving the post that the BL is stopped by.. slide it over a mm or two and then mums the word.

just so i didn't have to shave the PCB again.

I had the BL out anyway to put the encoder in.

It is. It is 'custom' shaved and drilled.
I basically shaved it layer by layer till the wheel poked up to my liking.

Hey Koas, I originally purchased Hippo's PCB... had some problems getting it delivered. I then got a copy of the Schematic/Design... I couldn't really get what I needed from it.. so I basically inversed the Schematic and carved out some space on some of the traces. The Drill points and pads were all good as is. I started to shave the board as well, but after the 4 or 5 time to put in place.. i just decided to move the LCD over a mm or so. That was much nicer and easier.

Here are some pics of the placement...

http://openrcforums.com/wiki/index.php/ ... ry_encoder

The HK backlight panel is actually a good bit wider than it needs to be. The panel it self is just plastic, some diffuser material and reflective tape around the edges... It can be disassembled and cut to length as needed. I took about a quarter inch off mine with no ill effects.

Also important to note. With Telemetrez there is no resistors required and works like a charm. On stock 9x board.
Thanks to Steve and the developers.

Iksbob wrote:I took about a quarter inch off mine with no ill effects

That sounds cool, do you have any pics? I don't have my backlight yet so am having a hard time visualizing how it's built...

Actually that little extra backlight material helps holding my encoder board. when installed the little edge of the back light is right under the encoder board and help to hold the encoder in place when pushing on the encoder. I used wires instead of pins for the board so what is holding the encoder board in place is the back light, the two screws with washer and the other side with hot glue. Using pins, there is no need for such consideration. but I think I have seen quite a few people have to do this more than once to get it right. to remove the pins is a pain, but wires is easy (no need to remove it, just trim the encoder board to the right thickness and fit and you can do it by trimming little by little till it is fit perfectly the way you want)
For me, line up 12 pins all straight and exact is not easy on the 1st run also get the height just right. using wires, I installed the encoder in one run and done.

jbeebo wrote:do you have any pics? I don't have my backlight yet so am having a hard time visualizing how it's built...

None on hand. It's like this: a thin block of clear plastic, textured on the back side, with LEDs shining into the block from one edge. The remaining edges have (probably mylar) reflective tape on them. The back face of the block has almost-opaque white plastic "paper" stuck to it via some thin strips of double-sided tape at each end. The front face has similarly attached translucent white diffuser plastic on it.