ALTERNATIVE way of install SmartieParts board for V1

[MojoMaestro]

PART # 1/6
SORRY I STILL CAN'T PUBLISH A VIDEO OR PICTURE PROPERLY
SO PLEASE USE THE SAFE LINKS sweet! now most pictures r up,
Thank you friendly MOD
Fixed by your friendly MOD

INTRODUCTION

* i am attempting this using my old Eurgle 9x that has a lite problem custom firmware issue, like i mentioned in a earlier post (throttle & display issues).

This is a HOWTO modify the 9x (V1) for SmartieParts board installation. it is in 6 separate parts so U can reply, give ur impressions, share ur experiences & advices in every parts. I will also be adding informations & details.

i had this idea of how to install the Smartieparts board in a case like me if U have a Version 1, 9x.

Woot U need:
- i used a very small of metal (scratch on JST connectors)
- a small piece of electric tape
- a very little piece of solder wire
- a drop of Medium thickness CA glue

Tools needed:
- X-acto knife
- cutting plier
- soldering iron
- a small flat file
- a third hand tool with magnifying glass
- a Dremel tool (facultatif)


U know the drill, remove the 6 screws,unplug...

Here is the part U need, circled in red.

A small piece of unused metal from a JST plug. Very conductive & very thin.

The difference between is only a "DOT" away.
On Version 1 its here..

Silver DOT on V1.
On V2 its here...

Refering to "DOT" to determine the junction point in the yellow circle or equal or equal DOT on V1.

In a logical order here are the steps.

[MojoMaestro]

PART # 2/6

STEP #1

With a fair amount of light and using the third hand tool with magnifying glass,
remove the "green paint" over this spot,here in a yellow line on the picture.
Scratch it with an X-acto knife.The magnifying glass from the third hand tool
will be very useful dealing with small to avoid mistakes & unwanted scratches.
Try to avoid scratching too close to the DOT already made by manufacturer,
do not disturb neighboring connections in order
to prevent unwanted current bridges & short circuits.

This is a precision job, so take your time.
*i personnaly chose a 60* angled blade to avoid deep scratches on the copper.

Use Isopropanol 99% or Alchool 70% &+ to clean the residue of green paint U just scratched,
which i did after every X-acto scratch giving me clear view on what i was doing.

[MojoMaestro]

PART # 3/6

STEP #2




*maybe tape on the other side also to avoid the upcoming solder wire to be loose.
I found out while doing it that it is a good thing to tape all around the copper expose &
all over the manufacturer DOT. This will be useful in a moment.

So look at the picture and imagine black tape all around the copper piece and do the same.
Stay on the green, the mainboard , don't tape over the components.

After cleaning, put a piece of electric tape on this location. Where the manufacturer DOT is I made a
spot with a red marker to give me an idea of the size & shape of the modeled JST plug metal piece.

TiPs: I use precision tweezeers to move the small pieces of tape around.
To move to small pieces of tape around & under the third hand tool magnifying glass use toothpicks,
it makes way easier & precise i use 2 at a time when needed.

[MojoMaestro]

PART # 4/6

STEP #3

Now you use to JST plug metal piece to make your new DOT.
So look at the logics and make a simular shape & proportional sized DOT,
when shaping your metal piece. it s OK to make a bit oversized DOT like i did
but avoid making it having contact with mainboard, to avoid short-circut.

*Now i a good time for Dremels & small files to get the right shape.

Compare size & shape of the metal plate by putting on the tape, look exactly at the spot it should.
When U got the right spot, good shape & size then........

[MojoMaestro]

PART # 5/6

STEP #4

Now that you are sure of the correct place to put your DOT.
take a small piece of solder wire (as small has U can) like 0.5mm or
like i did is to take 1mm solder wire and filed it to the size required,
and for the length i eye check beside the copper surrounded by tape now.
Using the X-acto knife cut delicately & after comparing with with the size
needed to fit perfect inside and not over the tape.
*It's a precision job so take your time.
Put a small drop of CA medium where the is a small blue spot indicated on the picture,
U put the CA on the spot between the layers of tape & the new metal piece U just made.

(same picture has in Step #3)
http://magicmojo.webs.com/apps/photos/p ... =149652631
The yellow on the picture now represents a fine solder wire piece.
* i avoided CA activators (kickers) because its wet and i don't know at what speed it evaporates.

When the CA is dry(5min-10min), on the yellow part where now the solder wire is,
the solder wire being sandwiched between the copper on the board & your new DOT,
take your soldering iron & apply lite pressure over the small area where the solder wire is trapped
to make a good solder and provide conductivity to your new DOT:)

[MojoMaestro]

PART # 6/6

CONCLUSION

You now have a new DOT where the contact of the SmartieParts board is made
like on the V2.

So now U r making contact with your SmartieParts board. Because U made made
a new DOT & the contact point on the board has a spring,
http://magicmojo.webs.com/apps/photos/p ... =149681045
it gives us a little more
thickness possible to work with.

Where the blue line represents the solder made.
It's done!
Whit no fragile wire between main board & SmartieParts board.

Easier soldering then usual method. Well for me it is, after what i did whit
my virgin Eurgle on the first attemp.

http://magicmojo.webs.com/apps/photos/p ... =149915412
The tape now has melted a little and isolates the metal plates.
Avoid any contact of the metal plate with board components.

Now put back on the SmartieParts board & plug the EL.
Oups! Plug the EL backlight onto the board before putting
back in place the Smartieparts board, it's easier.


Thank You.