Receive 9xtreme and Installation

[ShowMaster]

Update, brain tired but progress.

Haptic driver built, installed, motors mounted, "works"!
I used the breakout pads 1 5v, 3, ground, 12 haptic logic out. It goes high, 3.3v I assume to trigger the haptic diver fet I used. I used a 2n7000.
I used a short 3 wire pigtail to servo connector on the breakout pads to allow easy board removal. Mating connector on my haptic driver board. I'll post pictures if there's interest in my install. I think this should only be done after a full working install of the 9Xtreme board is done!
First things first!

I finally got around to binding to a new 8XR receiver with the new XJT module I installed. That went well. I also saw receiver and RSSI telemetry displayed so I know my Sport connection is correct. The battery is now a NiMh 8 cell LSD 2000ma pack with a 3 pin polarized connector.
I added some foam around the speaker and that helps a lot as Steven mentioned.
I added the 9Xtreme logo at the top front case to make the total conversion real! Nice logo, adds class.
I think my conversion if done! [emoji3]

I do have one bother, not the conversion, but the XJT swr displayed!
Never had that option with the Dht. It sits at 32 a lot and does drift lower, 16 , and sometimes, 1.?
If I cup the antenna I can force it to 64 and get an alarm.
Moving the antenna left or right doesn't help, straight up better but not solid.
This has the Taranis swr issue running around in my head.
Tomorrow will be a range test and I'll try another antenna.
I'm not relating this to the 9Xtreme install but more to a new XJT and being able to read swr with ersky9x. Hopefully is a fw reporting value thing that Mike can think on and tweak?

I guess I could try it in my Taranis and see what it reads installed there? Never done that yet. Not having 2 xjt modules, I can't compare.
In any case, I'm calling the conversion a success and I'll see how the range test goes.
RSSI seems normal on the bench, 102 at 6 inches, 95 at 1 meter.

Done for the night![emoji485][emoji485]
SM

[ShowMaster]

About the micro USB board. I added some solder to the metal mounting tabs. The board is a good but lose fit as mentioned. I added a thin trace at the top of the board of hot glue, and let it cool. So far I just pushed on it and it wedged in tighter when the top touched. I don't want to really secure it if needed, until I'm finished opening the case later.
SM

[MikeB]

I'd have to double check but I think the code does check for a XJT that sends an incorrect SWR value.
The SWR value does seem to be 0, 1 16 or 32 and nothing in between, other than values showing due to averaging.
If it doesn't go above 32 in normal operation, then it is OK.

Mike.

[quadraf]

Okee... my first post. Installed the Extreme board succesfully . With Eepsky flashed newest (22/10) rom and installed voices on de SDcard. She talks to me
Programmed a model in Eepsky and uploaded it (seems to upload) ...Problem...After checking the model in the transmitter it was not there ( still the standard one).
Perhaps i am missing something because this system is brandnew to me... Then i programmed the model myself in the transmitter.
The real (fly)test is coming...

Greetings Hans

[MikeB]

Try running eepskye, then read the EEPROM from the radio. Does this work OK?

Mike.

[quadraf]

Try running eepskye, then read the EEPROM from the radio. Does this work OK?

Mike.

That i did try before i manually entered the model myself and the standard model loaded up. In the evening i try to read the Eeprom from the new fresh model...
Meanwile i just flew with the hardware and it was an instant succes
Now my focus goes to the connected FRsky telemetry. I believe RSSI should be readable right away..?
Thank you for your great work

[OctavioS]

I'm feeling a new man already. [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1]

Fu****ng auto correction
Enviado do meu Galaxy S6 edge através de Tapatalk.

[LTMNO]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/582 ... treme.jpeg[/img]

The items have arrived.
Thanks for all the posts Gents/Ladies... I guess I will keep the Basic back in the box and work with Steven on that front...
The 9Xtreme, I am eager to get it going.

Question 1: I have a brand new 9X, do I have to upgrade the Main Board CPU or is the M64 okay?
(I have the 9X Replacement boards with M128 on them)

Once I get everything working.. i will do the Gimbals and such...

Question 2: With the new setup, will we have to the Trim Fix on system crashing?

I reserve the right to ask more questions later ;-0

[LTMNO]

My install progress. Sbus connected for XJT.
I haven't bound to any receivers or controlled servos yet but will today.

If this vertical trim issues doesn't show up in the diagnostic screen as mixed up, can I assume all's good? I'll find out real time later.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445533943.194036.jpg

@ShowMaster...

Thanks for posting... just curious how or what you did for the FrSky Wire... is that what you have hooked up to your back board? I have the XjT as well.

[jhsa]

Question 1: I have a brand new 9X, do I have to upgrade the Main Board CPU or is the M64 okay?

The m64 is ok.. You don't have to upgrade anithing

Question 2: With the new setup, will we have to the Trim Fix on system crashing?

No. The 9xtreme hijacks the 9x trims as far as I know.. The original 9x trim connections can then be used for extra switches or converting 2 position switches to 3 position..

João

[LTMNO]

The case back pix shows the 3A pico fuse across the charge ckt protection diode for rapid charging. You'll also see where I've reversed the charge wires to be like all my JR radios and wall wart chargers.
SM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445535531.321095.jpg

ShowMaster, did you just cross the red and black wire and then add the fuse?
If so, is that to accommodate the power chargers polarity? Then if that is so, then that makes sense to me... Still early in the morning....

Did you do the 1K Resistor fix on the Trainer port/PPM Line?

[MikeB]

Again, the trainer connections go straight to the 9Xtreme, no mods needed. The trainer input is 'properly' buffered by a transistor, so should work with low level signals.

No trim switch mods needed.

Mike.

[jhsa]

You DO NOT need the 1K resistor (or the transistor) trainer mod since er9x/ersky9x has an option called PPMSIM. This routes the trainer signal through other path..

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6473

Page 19 of the manual

João

[bob195558]

Installing new 9Xtreme Upgrade Board

1) Just finished the Reverse Current Protection Mod on the 9x Switch Board.

2) Other mods and hardware upgrades already done are Replace 5V Regulator Mod, Digital Ground Mod
and Smartieparts 9x TelemetrEZ and 9x Solderless Programmer Board with HK Backlight .

3) Using external XJT module with telemetry wires coming through back of case.
External XJT module has been used in PPM Protocol, DipSW 1 ON & 2 OFF (turns it into a DJT module)
when being used with D-Series Receivers.

4) Removed Smartieparts 9x TelemetrEZ and 9x Solderless Programmer Board.

5) Remove the 9X Main Board and remove the HK Backlight.
Replace with the new 9Xtreme RGB backlight panel.
I really like the way this fits into place and the wires coming out from the bottom of backlight panel.

6) Reinstall 9X Main Board check push buttons are working properly.

7) Prepare new 9Xtreme board for installation.
Insert the CR1220 3V watch battery, install needed voice folder/files to the Micro SD Card and insert it into the Micro SD Receptacle.
Install the two upper plastic supports and glue the two lower plastic screw standoffs to the back of the 9xtreme Board.

8) If you have the Replace 5V Regulator Mod put a layer of black electrical tape over the 5V Regulator
to make safe from any possible electrical shorts between the 9Xtreme Board.

9) Next secure 9Xtreme Board into it proper place.

10) Glue the speaker in and connect to 9Xtreme board, install Micro USB Female Connector in the battery compartment
and attach the FrSky Telemetry Cable (to go through back of case I had to add about 2 inches to the FrSky Telemetry Cable, it was to short).

11) Close the two case halves together and connect the battery.

12) Powering up the first time, pressing buttons to pass through alarms, I needed to set two of the radio's stick directions
(amplified taranis gimbals) and then I went to calibrating all the potentiometers.
Also when powering up the first time the welcoming voice was vary low, not sure why,
but it corrected itself on about fourth powering up.
The RGB backlights are working too.

There is some kind of trouble with my Throttle and Rudder amplified potentiometers (using Mode 2).
They are jumping around, not stable, Throttle when it is in the down position and the Rudder when moved to each side of its end travels.
I think it maybe a bad connection with them but not sure yet.
The Throttle all the way down on powering up gives the Throttle is not in Safe Possession warning.
After flashing the firmware and recalibrating several times, the Rudder seem to be OK now
and the throttle I tricked it, by when calibrating the down stick travel, I did not go all the way down, so shorting the travel a little
and so now it is not giving the Throttle is not in Safe Possession any more.
This is not a fix but something I tried to see what would happen.
I will have to investigate this more when I have more time.

Add update: investigating the Throttle is not in Safe Possession warning,
I found that the Taranis Gimbals throttle pot was not securer in its place.
When I pulled the pot by its wires counterclockwise there was NO more Throttle is not in Safe Possession message
and when letting the wires to go free the Throttle is not in Safe Possession message returned.
My fix was to supper glue the Taranis Gimbals throttle pot in place while pulling the wire counterclockwise,
which I believe keeps the pot's rotation travel, in its tolerance.
It is now a reliable Taranis Gimbals throttle pot in my new 9Xtreme radio.

So installation went fairly well overall.

9Xtreme Telemetry RX TX Wires_b.jpg (149.29 KiB) Viewed 13406 times

Also for more info, see here: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=7182).

Good job Steven and Mike, thank you for this new 9Xtreme Upgrade Board for 9x radios.

Bob B.

[ShowMaster]

The case back pix shows the 3A pico fuse across the charge ckt protection diode for rapid charging. You'll also see where I've reversed the charge wires to be like all my JR radios and wall wart chargers.
SM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445535531.321095.jpg

ShowMaster, did you just cross the red and black wire and then add the fuse?
If so, is that to accommodate the power chargers polarity? Then if that is so, then that makes sense to me... Still early in the morning....

Did you do the 1K Resistor fix on the Trainer port/PPM Line?

Yes I changed the charge polarity to use my many JR chargers I have for overnight charging. It's more for my thinking, I've used JR since 1983 and always think center pin -.
The wall warts could take 30 hours + to charge my 2000ma pack, but it'll work. I'll be doing most, if not all, my charging using my smart charger via the charge jack. The reason for jumping the 9X diode with a 3A fuse. To allow a direct connection to the battery to all 1-2A charging, not confuse the charger because of the diode, and have some short circuit protection of the charge jack. If the jack gets shorted, the fuse hopefully will blow before the wiring or board trace, and the diodes back, and I can still charge at under the 1A of the diode limitation. I just have to monitor the charging in case the diode messes with the chargers cut off detection. I honestly charge at 1-1.5A Max at the field, 500ma at home to go easy on the pack. The diode could just be shorted out but then the wiring is the fuse.

I didn't do any 1k trainer ppm mod. That was solved some time ago. Jhsa and Mike have kept up on that and I'm sure they'll post the reason not to do it now.

[ShowMaster]

Replacement USB connection board.
I think Steven posted he may have 500 spare ones due to a product change? But this will work if you need one for this or other projects. I sand down the sides(power bench sander) to fit snugly in the 9X battery case. Solder pads to add your own wires.

On the 9Xtreme board, I did add some solder to the metal shell mounting tabs to reinforce the mounting. SMD soldering didn't have much solder there for mechanical strength. Now it's the PCB pads that have to be strong.
In any case, another DIY option.
I do want to add some kind of in line 4 connector to the USB connection, to allow me to open the case easier. I don't to to put pressure on the board or USB interconnect connectors.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12035

[s_mack]

Replacement USB connection board.

Nice find! Good DIY resolve if necessary. Of course, its not going to be any stronger as it is still surface mount, unless they just do a better job than my guys do, of course.

On the 9Xtreme board, I did add some solder to the metal shell mounting tabs to reinforce the mounting. SMD soldering didn't have much solder there for mechanical strength. Now it's the PCB pads that have to be strong.

If one knows what they are doing, it may not be a bad idea to short things up by adding some solder (I'll explain further below *) but in general, solder does not provide mechanical strength. You can pile on gobs of solder and it won't make it any stronger. Solder is not about quantity, its about quality. Provided the soldering process was to spec, it will be as strong as it can be (which isn't very strong). Of course, greater surface area does offer more strength, but that's a function of the component and not something we can alter by more than a tiny amount *.

Over the years with the SP Rev 2.x boards, there were probably ~ 50 reports of a broken USB. In some cases, it was obvious the solder joints were never properly created (ie. "cold" joint). Manufacturing always has its defects. In other cases, it was simply damage by the user. I'm not going to say the design is perfect (clever, if I say so myself, but not perfect) and I'm not going to say the manufacturing is perfect either. For now, its just a matter that users have to be careful with it. If a defect presents, I take care of it.

I actually don't recommend the customer preemptively add solder unless they consider themselves to be skilled at it. Even though it looks like no solder is on there, that's because they've been machine soldered (baked) and not hand soldered from above, so no blobs form on the tops of the pins/tabs. People tend to mistakenly think that solder is holding the piece down, sort of like hot glue would, but that's not the case. A metallurgical bond is formed between the pad and the pin, when everything is done correctly anyway, and that's where the strength comes from... not the mechanical application of the solder itself. Re-soldering or adding solder can actually weaken a perfectly good joint if it isn't done well. Of course, if we start by assuming the original solder was not done well, then adding some solder and being sure it gets to the right temperature for the right amount of time, we can prevent an unnecessary break. So if you do know what you're doing... go ahead and take the precaution.

There is a bit of a quality control conundrum here. Mechanically testing them would reject the ones with poor bonds, but it would unnecessarily weaken the ones that were otherwise acceptable. As I said before, I'll try to come up with something better. So far I've only had one complaint of a broken USB, but as only a small # have them, that could be a very poor rate - time will tell.

* Where machine soldering does have a disadvantage is the tiny amount of surface area lost by not soldering the sides of the pins. As the pins are a fraction of a mm thick, this don't amount to much... but it is something. And if a skilled solderer can form a nice fillet along the perimeter of the pins it certainly will add strength, perhaps even a considerable amount. If breakage does present a significant problem, I may have to see about them being over-soldered by hand after they've gone through the machine process. Of course, this is $$$, even in China, if I want it done with any skill.

[LTMNO]

Again, the trainer connections go straight to the 9Xtreme, no mods needed. The trainer input is 'properly' buffered by a transistor, so should work with low level signals.

No trim switch mods needed.

Mike.

Thanks..

[LTMNO]

You DO NOT need the 1K resistor (or the transistor) trainer mod since er9x/ersky9x has an option called PPMSIM. This routes the trainer signal through other path..

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6473

Page 19 of the manual

João

Obrigado

[LTMNO]

The case back pix shows the 3A pico fuse across the charge ckt protection diode for rapid charging. You'll also see where I've reversed the charge wires to be like all my JR radios and wall wart chargers.
SM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445535531.321095.jpg

ShowMaster, did you just cross the red and black wire and then add the fuse?
If so, is that to accommodate the power chargers polarity? Then if that is so, then that makes sense to me... Still early in the morning....

Did you do the 1K Resistor fix on the Trainer port/PPM Line?

Yes I changed the charge polarity to use my many JR chargers I have for overnight charging. It's more for my thinking, I've used JR since 1983 and always think center pin -.
The wall warts could take 30 hours + to charge my 2000ma pack, but it'll work. I'll be doing most, if not all, my charging using my smart charger via the charge jack. The reason for jumping the 9X diode with a 3A fuse. To allow a direct connection to the battery to all 1-2A charging, not confuse the charger because of the diode, and have some short circuit protection of the charge jack. If the jack gets shorted, the fuse hopefully will blow before the wiring or board trace, and the diodes back, and I can still charge at under the 1A of the diode limitation. I just have to monitor the charging in case the diode messes with the chargers cut off detection. I honestly charge at 1-1.5A Max at the field, 500ma at home to go easy on the pack. The diode could just be shorted out but then the wiring is the fuse.

I didn't do any 1k trainer ppm mod. That was solved some time ago. Jhsa and Mike have kept up on that and I'm sure they'll post the reason not to do it now.

Cheers, I will go out and buy one of those Diodes... I have a 500mAh Charger I use now and sometimes my smartcharger.. but i keep it less that 1A

[gb21914]

So I'm trying to be pro-active and export my config from my existing smartieparts er9x board in preparation for the new board. I'm clearly doing something wrong...I currently run eepe rev420 and er9x r818. I've connected and saved the settings / model. I've confirmed this by removing the usb / opening the saved file standalone and I can see all my config / mixes etc.

I downloaded the eepsky rev 419 from the site, and attempt to open the config file...but the only thing that copies over appears to be the model name...everything else is blank. Clearly...I've missed something here...I guess worst case I'll just do a manual setup...but I'd prefer to avoid it if I can.

Any thoughts on what I have done wrong? The only thing I can think of is the default model version being incorrect? Thoughts or advice? I know other people have done this...so perhaps I'm just missing something basic here.

[quadraf]

Try running eepskye, then read the EEPROM from the radio. Does this work OK?

Mike.

That i did try before i manually entered the model myself and the standard model loaded up. In the evening i try to read the Eeprom from the new fresh model...
Meanwile i just flew with the hardware and it was an instant succes
Now my focus goes to the connected FRsky telemetry. I believe RSSI should be readable right away..?
Thank you for your great work

Update: Uploading eeprom from radio to eepskye works only 1 time! after that it uploads the empty standard model again and again. Flashing eeprom does not work at all although Eepskye says it succeeded well according the growing green bar and succes end message...
My manually entered model is still there and unchanged.
I wonder if anyone else is having the same problem?

[MikeB]

Are you using the eepskye from: http://www.er9x.com/, downloaded from the link near the bottom right?
Are you using Windows or linux?

Mike.

[ShowMaster]

I flew a test plane today with the new 9Xtreme board. Seems normal and ok. My XJT and telemetry worked for RSSI and bec voltage, X8R.
I did get the too close warning I get with my Taranis and X receivers. More of a x thing, not the install.
Lowest RSSI was 51, for all my normal flying and typical with my Taranis.
No obvious issues discovered today.
More sensors next time.
More alarms and announcements.
SM

[quadraf]

Are you using the eepskye from: http://www.er9x.com/, downloaded from the link near the bottom right?
Are you using Windows or linux?

Mike.

I downloaded latest version here 19okt:
viewtopic.php?f=126&t=7712

I am using windows 7 64bit.
Maybe it has todo with the old (already 2 years!) eepe installation files i copied the quicktime files from to get eepskye running. I will try a newer version out this evening...

greetings Hans

[Testo]

Sorry for your pain. I can't help with parts but would like to ask some questions about what could have gone wrong.
For the battery to swell I'm assuming it was a Lipo. If so 2,3, cells?

The fact that you heard battery low means the polarity should be correct

Is the 9X board new or one other mods had been done in like programming and telemetry?
If it had prior mods, did you reverse them to use the 9Xtreme board?

Did the install ever work ok before several times before the damage this time?

Was the RF module plugged in when this happened? If so, what if any mods were done to the module?

Not having a schematic, it's hard to tell what the circuits do that burned up/open. They could be the power buss control and source and they saw a short I'm thinking. This could be a some added wiring or module wiring if I'm guessing right. Having audio and then transistors and a trace burn up/open, is a clue. That is unless the battery was too much voltage over 12.6v?

This probably won't be the last time things get smoked so doing a CSI on each one may help in the future to avoid or fix issues like this.
I'm expecting many reversed battery hookups as new users add their own packs to the 9x 3 pin power connector. It happens a lot and this will bring a new crowd of DIY installations.
Again, sorry it happened. Hopefully it's not so serious. Any work in the 9x main board health?
SM

Sorry for my late answer

I used a 2S Lipo, it was half an year old and only used in my Turnigy 9XR.

The RF wasn't plugged in or modified ...

Without the 9xtreme Board I can Power on my Board but when i plugged in my RF module it also started smoking. So I'm going to buy a new 9X just to be sure, also a new DJT Module and I'm going to repair the 9Xtreme Board, hopefully it works i cant afford a second Board

[ShowMaster]

Ok, a clue! The RF module has its own regulator that can easily handle 12v, your only using 7-8v. No way would your RF module smoke if the + and - module pins were in tact. This usually is pre wired correctly by the PC traces unless you cut them and rewired them. Assuming you didn't, my logic tells me that the maybe the other module pins are being fed raw battery voltage by maybe some wiring you've done to the pin feeds? That, or an internal module wiring mod?
Please explain more about the wiring you may have done to the module or in the module!
The fact that you had a voice, you're using only a 2 cell 8 volts, tells me you didn't reverse the battery, or feed it too much voltage. The fact that you burned up traces and the module smoked, says to me "short" or wiring issue in the module area!
Please share all that's been done to that area.
Steven haven't released and schematics, but to me, the parts and trace that burned on your 9Xt board, looks like a power/battery path. If so, hopefully you just took out transistors and the regulator went into a shutdown mode? May be an easier fix than replacing major IC parts.
So, more wiring info and a few inside case pictures would help.
SM

[jhsa]

Could it be some cable (maybe the one with 12 or 14 pin connectors) wasn't correctly manufactured? Worth checking?

João

[ShowMaster]

A picture of his install before he removed the 9XT board would have helped. The module smoking would tell me that's the trouble area if he did any wiring mods to the module or pin assignments?
Of course, if any module mods were made before and worked then it gets more interesting. A good picture of the cables that come with his 9XT kit would show any wiring issues there.
I guess there's always the possibility that he plugged the wrong 9x connectors into the 9XT board? Not discounting a board that is defective when delivered, but this is the first that's not worked and smoked. Got to consider a factory, or a user issue, and cover all conditions.
A battery low warning from a charged 2 cell Lipo, and then smoke, burned parts/trace, and a module that smoked/smokes, tells me it's something at the end of the power chain, and it's a short?
We'll know more if/when he posts his mod details, especially if to the module area. With a Dht and using the 2 wire back data port pins, that could be plugged into the wrong pins I guess. That is, if the module and wiring is stock and was plugged in at the time?
I usually do it in stages, and add the module last in my builds.
Interesting CSI TV type puzzle to solve.
SM

[s_mack]

I guess there's always the possibility that he plugged the wrong 9x connectors into the 9XT board?

Not really. I mean, it would be VERY difficult, and impossible if it was fully installed prior to powering on. The only physical possibility is the 2 9-pin wires being swapped. That's only possible if the board is rotated 180 degrees and then the other plugs couldn't be inserted. And neither handle power anyway. Then there's the 12-pin... but again... not possible. The jumper is obvious where it goes on the one end (unique connector) and from there it can't make it over to the right side so it only goes where it an go. All other connectors are unique in either pitch or count. So I'm certain that isn't the problem.

With a Dht and using the 2 wire back data port pins, that could be plugged into the wrong pins I guess.

Mike and I designed it so it didn't matter how you plugged it in. It will only work in the single correct position, but the others won't damage anything. That was the idea anyway. I'm not sure it was ever put to proof. I suppose I could do that if I can find a DJT. I'm sure I have one somewhere.