openrcforums

This is very confusing, I'm running around in circles, with the same apparent problem. where you ever able to recover yours?

In my case: I'm using linux (ubuntu 14.10) dfu-util 0.8 and companion9X Version 1.52 (revision 2387), Jan 10 2014
I do believe my taranis is a "plus" (it says so on the front...)

I have a taranis plus and experiencing the same problem of not powering on and USB is not recognized by either Linux or Windows computers. It was working at one time, until I plugged the USB cable in while the battery was in and the radio on, although I didn't realize it was plugged into a powered USB hub with a led. Once I realized, it was plugged into the hub I unplugged it to also notice the led when from dim state to a much brighter normal state. I've checked voltages and get both USB and Battery voltage on C54. I also have the correct voltages on R90 and R91 feeding pin 92.

Not sure where to go next since the USB doesn't even register anymore.....

I am new here and trying to get the Taranis to power up after flashing the newest version.

My computer is a WIN8.1 64 bit.
I did watch Scott's youtube on joing the party - verifying all the steps etc.
YES the unit was turned off, I've tried the 3 finger boogie several times - nothing no beeps so screen.

BUT NOW I can not get the Taranis to turn on since flashing the new firmware using Companion 2.0.17

Tried everything, unplugging the battery, taking out the sd card, usb connect , unconnected.

When I read the sd card the firmware & eeprom folders were gone. I recreated them and saved the new firmware to the sd card.

I've tried to reflash through Companion but now receive DF Util error message.

I tried to take it back to the original firmware posted at the FrSky website but the utility gives me an error message about the firmware.
Bad firmware and can not map unit.

The battery is fully charged. I've been reading for hours, here, frsky and opentx/U.

I see a lot of similar post but not a definitive solutions.

Any idea how I can reset and get the Taranis to power on??

Filter on vendor = 0x0483 product = 0xdf11
Opening DFU capable USB device... ID 0483:df11
Run-time device DFU version 011a
Found DFU: [0483:df11] devnum=0, cfg=1, intf=0, alt=0, name="@Internal Flash /0x08000000/04*016Kg,01*064Kg,07*128Kg"
Claiming USB DFU Interface...
Setting Alternate Setting #0 ...
Determining device status: state = dfuERROR, status = 10
dfuERROR, clearing status
Determining device status: state = dfuIDLE, status = 0
dfuIDLE, continuing
DFU mode device DFU version 011a
Device returned transfer size 2048
DfuSe interface name: "Internal Flash "
Downloading to address = 0x08000000, size = 343728
.No valid DFU suffix signature
Warning: File has no DFU suffix
Error during special command get_status

=================================================================================
DFU Util done - exit code 1

Can someone point me in the right direction or help?


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I FIXED IT MYSELF - seems strange that no one here offered any type of solution

I would try, but I don't use a Taranis..

João

sos13 wrote:I FIXED IT MYSELF - seems strange that no one here offered any type of solution

Wrong firmware ?

nope - I select the basic Taranis (NOT Taranis plus)

sos13 wrote:I FIXED IT MYSELF - seems strange that no one here offered any type of solution

Well,
to provide others who might run into the same problem as you did a possible solution, it would be great if you could tell us what worked in your case.

sos13 wrote:[...]I see a lot of similar post but not a definitive solutions.[...]

There is no "definitive solution", simply because of the numerous possible reasons for this type of failure. I don't know if there is some kind of Quick-Start Guide available on flashing OpenTX for the first time, this might be useful for beginners to troubleshoot a problem on their own. It could only cover the most common problems though, so please let us know what exactly fixed it for you.

Hasn't he explained already that he specified Taranis instead of Plus? In other words, he picked the wrong firmware.

sos13,

Can you please explain how you were able to fix the problem? I am still unsure of how you did this.

Thank you.

Daedalus66 wrote:Hasn't he explained already that he specified Taranis instead of Plus? In other words, he picked the wrong firmware.

I selected the correct firmware for the Original Taranis and it bombed!

pigeonmike wrote:sos13,

Can you please explain how you were able to fix the problem? I am still unsure of how you did this.

Thank you.

IMHO: This is a Windows 8.1 64 bit problem. I've been in computers since they filled a room and have progressively coded Cobal to RPG & DOS, C++ system languages so I am very familiar with computer hardware & software.

After trying to use 3 separate Windows 8.1 PRO 64 bit computers, which have never been used with the Taranis (original) I took the process to a Windows 7 Home PC then I reflashed the Taranis original NOT PLUS and it worked like a charm!

I can only tell you what worked for me. I could never send an email to the developers as it bounced back and neither the Taranis Chinese forum nor any of these other forums would answer or offer a solution.

IMHO its a quirk or a bug and can leave the entry or basic level consumer trashing their equipment!

This seem to be a Windows 8 problem for a long time as we keep here from Win8 users.
If possible, stay away from Win8 OP.
I have herd Win10 will not have this same problem in that Microsoft has fixed the problem in Win10.
We will find out soon when Win10 is released.

Bob B.

MikeB wrote:Well those values look OK. Now we go to the main board. When you switch power on, you should get the battery voltage on C54, and 3.3V at one end of R76.

My taranis just stopped turning on last night after charging the lipo. I've tried flashing, with and without battery/sd card. checked the switch and have open and closed circuit. THIS is the first thing I've found that isn't as it should be. Across the C54 I get 0v, does this mean I need to replace it?
Thanks

Is it a Taranis or a Taranis plus?

Mike.

Sorry for the late reply,
Its a Taranis Plus

When you connect the USB cable, does the PC report it connects OK?

Mike.

MikeB wrote: ↑Mon May 29, 2017 8:15 am When you connect the USB cable, does the PC report it connects OK?

Mike.

Yes it does, I've tried reflashing in different configurations of with the battery out and SD card out too. Each time it says it flashes successfull. I have done the 5dBi antenna mod about 6 months ago, would this be the likely issue?

The power switch (on the switch board) has 6 connections, 3 on each side. One side has ground, power_on and a no-connect, the other side has a no-connect, battery voltage and the charge input.
Disconnect the battery, and check the power_on connection (middle on that side), connects to ground when you switch on.
If that is OK, check that this gets to one side of D1 on the main board. This ground signal causes the MOSFET Q3 to turn on, thus passing the battery voltage to C54.

Mike.

i am using a taranis-e x9e. i updated the firmware and now the transmitter wont turn on. i have tried going to bootloader but the display wont turn on. i even charge the transmitter and tried but still nothing.

Probably used firmware for the wrong radio. Please detail everything you've done and with what files.

Hello,
please help me to solve my problem with my taranis X9d plus se transmitter. It does not turn on. I have to disconnect and reconnect battery to be able to turn it on. I have checked the voltage on pins of 8 pin connector of the main board. When the transmitter is switched off (after working, when it wont turn on) the voltage of 3. pin is above 3.6V. This value can be between 3.5-5V. If I disconnect the battery and reconnect it (the transmitter will turn on) the 3.pin voltage is 3.15V.
I suppose there have to be a contact problem, because some times the transmitter works correctly. Several times I can switch it off and on without disconnecting the battery, but I don't know where to search the source of error.
Istvan

Have you been inside the case for any reason recently? Is so, please push on all the connectors. It’s possible that one may not be seated all the way.
This is easy to try.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thank you for quick response. I have pushed on connectors and it didn't help. This problem is not a new coming problem but I decided not to bore you with all details. (But now I will) When I received the transmitter (it is a new one) the battery was deeply discharged. After I charged the battery I could turn on the taranis once (the battery had been disconnected for charging). When the transmitter was switched off the speaker was producing very low but constant noise and the battery was drowned off within a day. I decided to open the case to check inside. I found quite a lot of small tin balls on plates. So I cleaned plates with toothbrush and alcohol. It didn't help immediately but the next day it was working correctly. I could use it several weeks (without removing battery). In this time period when the transmitter was switched off the speaker was making randomly low cracks but the constant low noise went away and battery was not drained off so quickly. I don't know what caused the return of the problem, but now I have to remove battery after every turning off and only after this can I turn on the transmitter. I have checked the switch it seems to be ok. The obvious difference between the working and not working conditions is the voltage of the 3. pin on the 8 pin connector of the main board. When the transmitter will be turned on the voltage is 3.15V else it is between 3.6V and 5V. This value is not constant.

From what I know, the power switch is more of a logic sw that supplies power to a circuit called “magic power switch” or something like that. The magic sw purpose is to actually control the time it takes to power on and off the main circuit boards tx battery voltage to a 5 or 3.3v regulator.
This built in delay is for turn off when the main power sw is set to off, is used to write/save data to the sd card or any non volatile memory.

I’m close in the theory that’s been
posted over the years for the T Plus.

The actual power sw only switches a power logic condition to the magic power and regulator circuit and they control the on and off.
The sw is on the switchboard with all the in and out connectors that have the speaker and charging circuitry on it as well. If the sw is good and the connectors are seated, then sadly, it could be a component failure issue
In the regulator or magic sw circuitry.

All the main circuitry is on the master circuit board, upper left side I believe.
Maybe some hot air or freeze spray on those components will help you to locate a part that’s in trouble? The hot or cold can sometimes shock a part enough to start working long enough for trouble shooting.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The power switch (hardware) seems to be ok. That means this is a sad scenario. I found an answer of MikeB in thread "Taranis DEAD", where he suggested to check the main board components Q2, Q3 MOSFETs, D1, D2 diodes and R52-55 resistors. Are these components of magic switch or do you suggest to check others?

Yes, those are the components of the "magic" power switch.

Mike

I have checked components of magic switch. D1 D2 diodes are OK. R57 is 87kOhm R52,R55 are 10kOhm and R53,R54 are 70kOhm. I measured again the voltages on Q2 Q3 mosfets in working and nonworking conditions when the transmitter was turned off and on:
Working condition transmitter was switched
OFF:
Mosfet name ;... pin1 ....;... pin2 .....;... pin3...; state of transistor
..... Q3 ........;... 4.4V ....;... 7.6 V ...;... 7.6V...; ON
..... Q2 ......;... 0.68V.....;... 4.1 V ...;... 0V .....; OFF
ON:
Mosfet name ;... pin1 ....;... pin2 .....;... pin3...; state of transistor
..... Q3 ........;... 0.63V...;... 7.6 V ...;... 7.6V...; ON
..... Q2 ........;... 2.9V ....;... 0.0 V ...;... 0.0V...; ON

Non working
OFF:
Mosfet name ;... pin1 ....;... pin2 .....;... pin3...; state of transistor
..... Q3 ........;... 6.1V ....;... 7.6 V ...;... 7.6V...; ON
..... Q2 ........;...0.13V ...;... 5.9 V ...;... 0V .....; OFF
ON:
Mosfet name ;... pin1 ....;... pin2 .....;... pin3...; state of transistor
..... Q3 ........;... 0.84V...;... 7.6 V ....;... 7.6V..; ON
..... Q2 ........;...0.003V..;...0.16 V ...;... 0V ....; OFF

Pins of mosfets: pin1 lower left, pin2 lonely upper, pin3 lower right (gate,drain,source or base, collector, emitter)
As I see the main difference is the Q2 lower left pin voltage and state. As I understand it stays OFF when I turn on the transmitter.
I checked connections between components of magic switch, but it seems to be ok. I had freeze the circuit but it didn't changed anything.
I checked the main board and I find 2 missing resistors (not in magic sw circuit). They are the R84 and R87.
Can they cause the problem?
On the other board at the battery I found more missing components around a transistor including the transistor too.

When I switch off the transmitter I know when it stays in working condition because then I can hear a click from the speaker after the screen stops. When the transmitter is switched off in working condition the speaker clicks randomly (quietly). I have measured the speaker voltage: it is 1.6V but when it produces the noise this value decreases to 0.9V and rises back to 1.6V. This clicks happen only in working condition. After a click the transmitter works. Is there any chance to find the source of error or is it possible to define which board of transmitter cause the problem?

I would like to ask somebody, who has a good taranis x9d plus se, to check R84 and R87 resistors (red squares on picture in my earlier post).