openrcforums

With Mike's help, here is info when I upgraded a t9x to the M2561 chip: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=3819&hilit=LM7805C ... 120#p74046).
With the flashing firmware er9x-2561 on this t9x.

Bob B.

Wood-metal arrived.

I'll give it a try

waiting patiently for your results

João

Don't rush an old man ...

br KH

That wouldn't cross my mind

João

João, could not wait and did a first test.

And I have to say, it is AMAZING!
Used a scrap pcb, my colophony flux and my old LS-DIGI 60.

First the 4pin IC and then the larger one. Little bit of wood metal with lot of flux and the chip starts floating. And it keeps floating for some seconds!

Ordered from TMP-Löttechnik and there was a problem on their side.
Delivery took nearly 3 weeks, but I got 200g instead of my 100g ordered as an extra Enough for the next 100 years

And here is a video for demonstration -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwDZeEU34N8

br KH

Wow, thanks..
Now where is that link again?

João

Cleaned the pcb and made a short video ...

Very nice
Need to order some. On the other video the guy says it is not very good for our health. We should be careful..

João

It has 10% to 12.5% CADMIUM in it and we "all know" CADMIUM is not allowed any more!

Mike.

Yes. But I am not planning to use it 24/7. Keep the room ventilated and wash my fingers afterwards.
Yes, I am soldering with leaded solder. Not healthy. I smoke and drink alcohol. Not healthy either.

Worked for nearly 40 years on ships, in power stations, steel- and paper mills.
Don't ask me about "unhealthy" environments

br KH

yeah, true. But you and probably me, and a few others, might know how to handle this stuff. others might not.. So, it's worth it mentioning it

João

bob195558 wrote:

ABBC3_OFFTOPIC

Youngevity Nutritional Supplements: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbglsrqwHVQ.

@bob195558, 2:20:18

Could you name the highlights please. That is nearly 2 ½ hours!!

andrewju wrote: ↑Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:32 am When connected via USB, the junction of R57 and D2 works "as expected" (0.15v when the power switch is ON, and about 3.3v when OFF). Though, there's nothing on the screen and the PC doesn't detect any new devices.

Hello

I have swapped the body and gimbals of my x9r plus, but after putting together everything no sign of life, not even on usb connect without battery does my computer detect anything. After reading a lot in this great forum I suspected cpu dead. Allthough I never plugged in or out the ribbon cable while the batterie was in. So far so bad. I ordered a new cpu and prepared myself to change it but while waiting I checked again.

Different to Andrew I have 0,46V at the side of R57 that connects to the cpu and 0,48V on the other. This does not change wether power switch is on or off. Another difference is no battery charge = no green led while using internal charger.

Could that mean my voltage controller may be foobared?

Now, I am very ashamed to admit: I cannot find it. While the non-plus board seems well described, i find about no pictures of the plus board with explanations.

Hoping for Light and Help,
Rolf

Power from the USB connector (when operating in power off mode) goes through diode D6, so one side should be around 5V and the other side around 4.3 to 4.5V.
You should also then have the 3.3V supply (VCC) present. One side of R76 (part of the 3.3V regulator circuit) is VCC if you can't find VCC anywhere else.

Mike

Ah, great, both Light and Help have appeared, thx Mike.

D6 voltages are 4.8 and 4.4

R76 is playing Hide and Seek together with his buddy, the 3.3V regulator. I cannot find them . The closest I get is R74 and R78 near the cable connecting main board and switch board. I am searching on the main board, right? Could you give me a rough hint where to find them?

Edit: I am measuring the voltages with minus connected to minus of the battery bay just in case that matters...
Edit2: Last night after more experiments I left the fully charged battery in the tx (switched off). This morning battery voltage is 2V. This does not feel good ...

I got annoyed with myself for not finding R76 so I took the main board out again and detached all cables. Still nothing. Then I bend up the Elko (looks like it was added afterwards, different solder) and voila: Hide and Seek is finished, boys.

Reads 0.48V on one end, 0.12V on the other (measured against Minus of Battery Bay). No change if switch either on or off.

My Multimeter tells me the Ozilator is going at 18KHz but I wouldnt trust that since all the time while measuring the number is going up.

I looked up the pinout of the CPU to check where VDD is fed:

Pin 100: 0.467V
Pin 75: 0.461V
Pin 50: 0.459V

I am starting to hope. At least I am not surprised the CPU is not handshaking with my computer

Now found the voltage regulator (I think). No wonder I did not find it before, I was looking for a 3-legger. Looked up the pinout for TPS5401 and that's the point where my electronic noob skills end. Apart from Pin1 vIn I don't understand the output of that chip therefore I list the voltage readings of all pins:

P01: 4.8V
P02: 4.3V
P03: 3.6V
P04: 0.15V
P05: 0.35V
P06: 0V
P07: 0.1V
P08: 1.1V
P09: 0V
P10: 0.6V

You are not getting 3.3V from the (switch mode) regulator. Either the regulator is bad or something is loading it down. Is anything getting warm/hot (like the processor)?

You say you have replaced the gimbals. Try unplugging the cables from the gimbals from the main board and see if it then works at all.

Mike

Gimbals and Switches are unplugged - no change. All the time while testing I was scanning for smoke, bad smells and warmth/heat - nothing. Cool as a beer should be.

Connecting the battery again as >something< seems to suck it empty and measured amps:

Switch Off: 0mA
Switch On: 70mA

No heat. Maybe I did leave it on last night, that would explain dead battery

Where did you buy the chip(s) Andrew?

I am not Andrew, but I bought mine here:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/STM32F20 ... 4c4dIPhCDL

Not sure though if its a copy, for that price.

Rolf

Rolf wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2019 11:41 am I am not Andrew, but I bought mine here:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/STM32F20 ... 4c4dIPhCDL

Not sure though if its a copy, for that price.

Rolf

Thanks Rolf.
Incredibly cheap!

Hello all,

still struggeling with my board. As there are no more tips I will change CPU in case that is pulling the voltage regulator down but somehow I dont put too much hope into that. So I am forcing myself to get friendly with the idea of getting a new board. They are available with and without display. Any Experience with that? Is it easy to change the existing display from the old to new board?

Rolf

CPU arrived:
First cut the legs of old CPU and then desoldered them. I killed a few conductor tracks, see what I can do about that:
Furthermore it looks like I lost C81. Anybody got the value for that?

Continuing to remove legs and clean up,
Rolf

PS Mike: Can I try measuring voltages of the voltage regulator now with CPU removed to see if something still is pulling it down or would that fail anyway?

C81 is 100nF (0.1uF).

Yes to measuring voltages before you replace the CPU.

Mike

with CPU____without CPU
P01: 4.8V____6.75V
P02: 4.3V____4.72V
P03: 3.6V____2.12V
P04: 0.15V___1.88V
P05: 0.35V___0.51V
P06: 0V______0.11V
P07: 0.1V____0.66V
P08: 1.1V____1.04V
P09: 0V______0V
P10: 0.6V____3.26V

R76 has 0.6V on one end and the 3.26V from P10 on the other. I presume I'm good to go.

Some more info when I replaced a CPU here: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=3819&start=120#p74105).
I also used CHIP QUIK which was a big help.

Bob, I have been admiring your soldering skills already. After cleaning yours looks so perfect. Did you apply solder to the tracks before putting the CPU on or is it better to start with as much of the old solder gone as possible?