I also like your solution with the PCB,s soldered to the pot housing..
My sensors are mounted on a bit of stripboard that is screwed to the gimbal plastic frame. The only advantage I see over your way is that if the pot housing moves my sensor will not move with it and have no effect on the stick position. But that problem could be solved with a bit of hot glue anyway..
As I said, your guide is excellent but allow me to make a couple comments. Constructive comments obviously
1 - Maybe it is worth mentioning that we have to grind the 2 little pins where the pot spring was attached to. I can see on your photos that you did it but you didn't mention it on the guide as far as I can see? This is important as it will allow the magnet to be flat on that plate inside the pot..
This is very very very important to make the stick movement linear. Time should be spent to center the magnet really well on the shaft. failing to do this could result on a non linear movement of the servo. Something like positive, or negative expo depending on the situation.It takes some time and patience until the magnet is perfectly
centered and the distance magnet – Hall sensor always remains the
same during stick movement.
How did you manage to fit the magnet inside the inner plastic part only by shaving it inside?
On mine I did have to cut a hole.. hmmm, or maybe not I can see that the wall on yours seem to be really thin Well done..
I would like to know how you did achieve this.. Do you have the same magnets I linked above? The same I use? I'm also using the same sensor I think. The Allegro A1302.During my attempts I could relatively easily adjust it to 0.12 V minimum and 4.93 V maximum.
But I was never able to achieve those values with these magnets. Only with a much smaller one.
My sensors are nearly touching the magnet. I think the voltage range I could get out of my assembly is in average 0.5 to 4.5V, or even less sometimes. I remember having 3.5 or 3.6 volts useful range sometimes.. It still gives a quite good resolution, better than a crappy pot
ATTENTION HERE. Only er9x has the ability of inverting the stick direction as far as I know. So if you use other firmware like openTX for example, you will have to make sure the magnets are placed to give the correct stick direction.. I did that on mine. You should get maximum voltage from the sensor when the sticks are fully to the right and up. If they are not, rotate the magnet 180 degrees to invert the poles.Depending on how the magnet was placed, it can happen that the stick movement in the transmitter is inverted that e. g. maximum throttle is not at stick full up but at full down.
In the transmitter setup this can be inverted again for each stick channel separately. Hence it's not necessary to take that aspect into account when positioning the magnets.
Congratulations, you did it in a much cleaner way than the way I did. It would be nice if you could post the PCB files so others could also make them? That would be great..
It is not that difficult to replace the pots with the hall sensors, but it requires some patience.
Ahh, on mine I had to set the springs a bit tighter to get the best centering. But the mechanics of the 9x radio has a lot of play, I guess. On one of my gimbals the pot shaft would move up and down inside the housing. Not good. I had to replace it with another pot housing.
Thank your for your guide
Now to find a way to do it to my 9XR pro as it has the worst centering of all my radios
Your idea might suit the 9xr gimbals better than mine..