CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade Mod

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CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade Mod

Post by bob195558 » Sat Jan 27, 2018 5:30 pm

I have ordered from TH3D (Timothy Hoogland) the EZABL Direct Wire,
Easy Auto Bed Leveling Upgrade Mod for the CR10 3D Printer: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezab ... rect-wire/).
EZABL Bed Leveling _Direct Wired_.gif
EZABL Bed Leveling upgrade _ Direct Wired


Because the aluminum heated Print Bed plate is not flat (out as much as .012"/.305mm when heated up to temperature),
the EZABL maps the surface of the heated Print Bed and moves the Z axis up and down to maintain the
(.004" / 0.1mm paper thickness) distance between the Filament Hotend Bowden Extruder and the heated Print Bed.

This requires flashing the CR10 Control Box with Timothy Hoogland TH3D firmware
1) Flashing Bootloader to the CR-10 Control Box: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27RDXtKjrCI).
2) Setting-Up and Flashing TH3D Unified Firmware to CR-10 Control Box: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2ODwmiMNhc).
3) Installing EZABL hardware and setting it up: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8iMOMgOntQ).

Some other videos about 3D Print Bed Leveling/Tramming:
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA),
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED1Gxvw2Rmw).

Bob B.
Last edited by bob195558 on Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:50 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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Printing CR10 EZABL Sensor Mount for auto Bed Leveling / Tramming

Post by bob195558 » Sat Jan 27, 2018 6:31 pm

I started by 3D Printing the EZABL Probe stock Sensor Mount ("EZABL OEM Mount")
This was my first time using "SUPPORTs" with the Cura Slicer Software
and first time using the eSUN WOOD (brown) filament,
which is a little less brittle than the eSUN PLA+ (blue).

TH3D EZABL 18mm Mount  for CR10_a.jpg

TH3D EZABL 18mm Mount  for CR10_c.jpg
TH3D EZABL 18mm Mount for CR10 3D Printer
TH3D EZABL 18mm Mount for CR10_c.jpg (26.01 KiB) Viewed 4807 times
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:01 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 2:27 pm

Flashing Bootloader and New TH3D Firmware to CR10 Melzi Control Board.
For the EZABL Sensor installation.
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Feb 21, 2018 1:32 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 3:27 pm

Post Number: 1-B

Flashing Bootloader and New TH3D Firmware to CR10 Melzi Control Board.
I removed the CR10 Melzi Control Board from its control box and using an Arduino UNO Board
to flash the new Bootloader to the CR10 Melzi Control Board.
For wiring instructions I used the TH3D youtube video: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... 7RDXtKjrCI).
UNO and CR10 wired_a.jpg


Note: if you have the CR10S you will Not need to install a bootloader because it has one already.
You can skip up to here: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 07#p135819)
and here is a helpful youtube video: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdeND79p4y8).

Bob B.
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:10 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 3:39 pm

Post Number: 2-B

1) Download this Creality CR10 Firmware Folded Pack "TH3D_UnifiedFirmware_U1.R1.1"
find here: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/).
(You may see an updated version of the TH3D_UnifiedFirmware to use)
Unzip and place this folder on your desktop.
Note: You will see a newer version of the TH3D Unified Firmware like: TH3D_UFW_U1.R1.4
Use the newest TH3D Unified Firmware version: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SXoKHhneI8).

2) Open sub-folder "Windows Arduino" and click on "arduino.exe" to open the Arduino program.
And/or you can also click on the "OpenFirmwareWindows.bat" which is a shortcut to opening the Arduino program.
ArduinoISP Shortcut.jpg
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:13 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 4:59 pm

Post Number: 3-B

3) Go to the CR10 Bootloader Flashing Guide find here: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... ing-guide/)
and/or youtube: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... 7RDXtKjrCI)
and follow the instructions.

4) With the UNO and CR10 Melzi Control board wired properly and moved the JUMPER on the CR10-Mainboard
over for powering through USB connection.
CR10 Main Contril Board_cr2.jpg

Disconnect the LCD display cable from the CR10 Melzi Control board.

UNO board info
BN: Arduino/Genuino Uno
VID: 2341
PID: 0043
SN: 5543830343935101B062


USB connect the UNO-Board to your PC.

With Arduino open, find/make sure you have USB connection to the UNO board,
go to: Tools / Port: "COM6(Arduino Uno)". (my pc was using COM6 for the UNO board).
Note: you may see something different like this: "COM6(Arduino/Genuino Uno)"
CR10 Bootloder Flash_2b.jpg
Last edited by bob195558 on Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:00 pm

Post Number: 4-B

5) Next go to: Files / Examples / 11.ArduinoISP / ArduinoISP
This opens a new Sketch (ArduinoISP) which you will now use.
CR10 Bootloder Flash_3c.jpg
Last edited by bob195558 on Fri Feb 16, 2018 6:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:17 pm

Post Number: 5-B

6) Next go to: Tools / Board: "Sanguino(1284P Boards)" / Sanguino(1284P Boards)
Note: You may see something different like this: Arduino/Genuino Uno
CR10 Bootloder Flash_4d.jpg
Last edited by bob195558 on Fri Feb 16, 2018 7:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling /Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:24 pm

Post Number: 6-B

7) Next Select: Tools / Port: "COM6(Arduino Uno)" / COM6(Arduino Uno)
Note you may see something different like this: COM6(Arduino/Genuino Uno)
CR10 Bootloder Flash_3b.jpg
3b
Last edited by bob195558 on Fri Feb 16, 2018 7:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:56 pm

Post Number: 7-B

8) Next Select: Tools / Programmer: Arduino as ISP

9) Next select: Upload
You will see lights flashing in their proper sequence of uploading sketch to the UNO board.
Note you may see an error message after compiling and uploading.
See error message below which I disregarded.
===========================================================================
Sketch uses 4676 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 130048 bytes.
Global variables use 483 bytes (2%) of dynamic memory,
leaving 15901 bytes for local variables.
Maximum is 16384 bytes.

avrdude: Expected signature for ATmega1284P is 1E 97 05
Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.
Wrong microcontroller found.
Did you select the right board from the Tools > Board menu?

============================================================================
CR10 Bootloder Flash_7g.jpg
7g
Last edited by bob195558 on Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:08 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing Bootloader to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:56 pm

Post Number: 8-B

10) Next: go and select: Tools / Board: "Sanguino(1284P Boards)" / Sanguino(1284P Boards)

11) Next: go and select: Tools / Processor / "ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16MHz)" / ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16MHz)

12) Next: go and select: Tools / Port: "COM6(Arduino Uno)" / COM6(Arduino Uno)

13) Next: go and select: Tools / Programmer: "Arduino as ISP" / Arduino as ISP

15) Next: go and select: Tools / Burn Bootloader
You will see lights flashing in there proper sequence on the UNO board
and the Bootloader will be burned to the CR10 Melzi Control Board.

16) Next: disconnect the USB and the Jumper Wires connecting the UNO board with the CR10 Melzi Control Board.

17) Next: reconnect the LCD display cable back to the CR10 Melzi Control Board.
Blank Blue Screen_b1.jpg
b1
18) Next: connect the USB cable from CR10 Melzi Control Board to the PC
which will power the LCD display and it should now have a Blank Blue Screen.
The Bootloader is now Flashed to your CR10 Melzi Control Board
and you can now flash the new TH3D Marlin (TH3DUF.ino) firmware to it through the USB connection.

Bob B.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing New TH3D Unified Firmware to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 7:45 pm

Post Number: 9-B

Flashing New TH3D Unified Firmware to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Edit Update Note:
You should see here for more info about updating TH3D Unified Firmware: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 15#p136430)
and (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 05#p139021).

19) Next view: TH3D Unified Firmware Setup Guide - Stock, EZABL, EZOut and More!
Youtube video here: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2ODwmiMNhc).
View the whole video first, before pressing the "Upload" button, so that you have all the "uncomment" (removed: // )
options selected that you will need.
If you need to add other options after you have Upload the firmware,
make the uncomment you need and Upload the new firmware again.

20) Next: go to the PC Arduino program and check that you now have a different
USB COM port connection like this: Tools / Port: / COM7
(you may have a different COM port from what I have).
(my Win7 found the needed USB Driver: FT232R USB UART).

21) Next: with Arduino find and open the new TH3D Marlin (TH3DUF.ino) firmware from the downloaded Creality CR10 Firmware Folded Pack that you have on your PC desktop: File / Open / Desktop / TH3D_UnifiedFirmware_U1.R1.1 / Firmware / TH3DUF / TH3DUF.ino

22) Next: Select the tab named: Configuration.h
Begin at the top reading the instructions as you progress down.
This TH3D Marlin firmware has selections for several 3D Printers.
You only need to make selections that pertain to your CR10 Printer
(or for the 3D Printer that you have).
To make a proper selection (option) you remove the 2 // marks
which is called uncomment.
Each different 3D Printer has its own section and near the bottom there is a
section called "TH3D EXTRAS" where you may want to select more options.

23) Next: When you come to your CR10 3D Printer, uncomment to make your selections.
==================================================================
"Creality CR-10 Options - Select Sanguino(1284P) from Tools:"
==================================================================
uncomment //: #define CR10
uncomment //: #define EZABL_ENABLE
uncomment //: #define CR10_OEM


TH3D Marlin_TH3DUF ino_firmware.jpg
TH3D Marlin (TH3DUF.ino) firmware
Last edited by bob195558 on Sat Aug 11, 2018 9:11 pm, edited 10 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Flashing New TH3D Firmware to CR10 Melzi Control Board

Post by bob195558 » Fri Feb 16, 2018 7:54 pm

Post Number: 10-B

24) Next: In TH3D EXTRAS I did change the "#define EZABL_POINTS 4"
to "#define EZABL_POINTS 5" because the un-flatness of my Print Bed.

25) Next: Pressing the Upload button and firmware will start compiling the firmware
before it Uploads to your CR10 Melzi Control Board.
Arduino will let you know when it is done uploading.

The CR10 LED display screen when powered up should show "TH3D EZABL Ready"
TH3D EZABL Ready.jpg
TH3D EZABL Ready
This completes flashing the new TH3D Unified Firmware to you CR10 Printer.


======================================================================================
26) Note: before you reinstall your CR10 Melzi Control Board back into your CR10 Control Box
move the Jumper back so to be powered by the CR10 Control Box power supply.
CR10 Melzi Control Board_b.jpg
Last edited by bob195558 on Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:41 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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CR10 3D-Printer, TH3D EZABL Installation - Direct Wiring

Post by bob195558 » Sat Feb 17, 2018 8:12 pm

TH3D EZABL Installation - Direct Wiring

1) See here the "TH3D EZABL Installation Guide.pdf": (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... ion-guide/).
Video installing EZABL hardware and setting it up: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8iMOMgOntQ).

2) 3D Print the EZABL OEM Mount ("EZABL OEM Mount") found in the folder on your Desktop: TH3D_UnifiedFirmware_U1.R1.1
/ Mounts / CR-10 and CR-10S / EZABL OEM Mount / Stock18mmMountCR10.stl
(If you have made the EZABL OEM Mount already skip this step, more info see the next step below.)

Note: use the newest version of the TH3D_UnifiedFirmware as Tim updates it from time to time.
Preheat your Printing Bed and leveled it the best that you are able to make it manually.
Next Home the Y, X and Z axis's using the "AUTO HOME" feature.
Then "Disabling Steppers" to be able to manually move the Y and X axis's for manually leveling the Print Bed
by adjusting the 4 adjusting knobs under the Heated Printing Bed by setting the printing Z axis gap.
Set the proper printing Z-gap using a piece of paper (you will want to feel a light drag between Print Nozzle and Printing Bed).
EZABL Sensor  2mm between Nozzle_a.jpg
2 mm between EZABL Sensor and Nozzle

3) Install the EZABL OEM Mount and the EZABL Sensor, setting a distance of 2mm in height
(up and down) between the EZABL Sensor and the Printing Nozzle.

EZABL Sensor  2mm between Nozzle_b.jpg
EZABL Sensor 2mm between Nozzle_b
Note: You can use the Large Wrench (as it is 2mm thick) that came with your CR10 3D Printer
to help set the 2mm distance (gap) between EZABL Sensor and Nozzle when Nozzle is in Z-Home position.

Distance between EZABL and Nozzle Tip_c.jpg
Distance between EZABL and Nozzle Tip can be less then 2mm

(Aug 3, 2018) Update Note: I have moved the EZABL Sensor down about 1mm
so that the distance between the Nozzle Tip and EZABL Sensor is 1.27mm (.050 inches)
and this new distance is working well.
Also, I have removed the two lock washers from the EZABL Sensor, which are more troublesome to use.
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Aug 08, 2018 3:58 pm, edited 18 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, TH3D EZABL Installation - Direct Wiring

Post by bob195558 » Sun Feb 18, 2018 12:55 am

4) Next: With the AC power disconnected from the CR10 Control Box, remove the bottom access panel
and strip one end of the gray length of wire provided with the kit.
Feed this wire in with the other cable wires into the back of the CR10 Control Box.
EZABL 12V Connection_b.jpg

Attach the RED Wire to the 12 volt output Red Wire Terminal
and the Black Ground Wire to the 12 volt output Black Wire Terminal.
EZABL 12V Connection_a.jpg
EZABL 12V Connection_a
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:23 am, edited 20 times in total.

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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, TH3D EZABL Installation - Direct Wiring

Post by bob195558 » Sun Feb 18, 2018 12:59 am

5) At the same time with your CR10 Control Box still open (optional),
you may want to check and Adjusting PSU Voltage and Stepper VREF Voltages.

See this TH3D video for info how to do this: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJRYXKRAUN4).

Adjusting PSU Voltage and Stepper VREF Voltages.jpg
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by jhsa » Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:25 am

It is not a DDOS problem. If you haven't noticed yet, the filtering has been turned off for now. The files getting messed up seems to be a different problem..

João

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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, TH3D EZABL Installation - Direct Wiring

Post by bob195558 » Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:44 pm

(Off subject: thank you João for the updated info, the problem with forum seems to be corrected now.)

6) Next: reinstall the bottom access panel to the CR10 Control Box
and with the other end of the length of Gray Wire, strip the other end
and connect it to the Left Side of the TH3D EZABL Small Black Module Box.
Red Wire connects to the top terminal and the
Black Wire connects to the bottom terminal.

3 Pin Extension Cable_c.jpg
12 volt power to TH3D EZABL Small Black Module Box

I mounted the TH3D EZABL Small Black Module Box to the back/top of the CR10 Control Box.

Note Update: I have moved the Small Black Module Box to the inside of the CR10 Control Box, see here:
(http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 52#p137672).
Last edited by bob195558 on Sun Aug 05, 2018 12:01 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:01 am

7) To connect the CR10 Z-Offset cable to the EZABL Small Black Module Box,
I use a 2S (3-Pin) JST-XH Wire Extension 250mm long
and cut off the Wire Extension male connector end and pulled out the center Pin/White Wire.
Then used black heat-shrink over the Red and Black wires.
Note: view picture above.
Find JST-XH 2S Wire Extension, click here: (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/jst-xh-2s-w ... s-bag.html).
Next: On the Right Side of the TH3D EZABL Small Black Module Box,
connect the Red wire to the top terminal
and the Black Wire connects to the bottom terminal.
Note: By using the 2S (3-Pin) JST-XH connector I can easily reconnect back to the Z-Offset Stop Micro Switch, if needed.
3 Pin Extension Cable_a.jpg
(2S) 3 Pin JST-XH Extension Cable Modded to connect to Z Stop Cable.
Plug the the Left Side TH3D EZABL Small Black Module Box wire into the 3 Pin Z Stop Cable.

(Note 1: You Do Not need use the Z-Offset Stop Micro Switch as it is not needed anymore.)

Note 2: Before powering up your CR10 3D Printer, review that you
have your wire connections proper, so to avoid any magic-smoke.

(Hindsight: this TH3D EZABL Small Black Module Box maybe installed inside of the CR10 Control Box
with only the EZABL module cable entering the back of the CR10 Control Box.
This would make a cleaner installation. For now I will leave it the way it is, maybe change it later.)
Last edited by bob195558 on Sun Aug 12, 2018 9:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:42 pm

8) Next: Test your EZABL Sensor that it is detecting properly.
Power Up your CR10 3D Printer and using your finger slow move it up toward
the bottom of the EZABL Sensor and when your finger comes close enough,
you will see the 1st LED on the top of the EZABL Sensor and a 2nd LED in the TH3D
EZABL Small Black Module Box LIGHTS UP at the same time, indicating detection.

LED Sensor ON with  LED Module ON_b.jpg
LED Lights when making detection.
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Feb 28, 2018 3:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:28 pm

9) With the EZABL Probe Sensor about 2mm distance between it and the Nozzle.
(a) Preheat Printing Bed by going to "Preheat PLA" (I used 65c)
(b) Disable Stepper Motors: "Disable steppers"
(c) I remove the filament (you may not need to do this).
(d) By hand with your fingers turn the Z-Axis screw down to where the Print Nozzle is a paper thickness
(.004" / 0.1mm) away from the Heated Print Bed surface.
You need to feel a very light drag on the paper when you have right paper Z gap.

(Aug 3, 2018) Update Note: With the new feature Baby Stepping being connected with the Z-Gap setting,
I now move the Z-Axis up .050 inch (1.27mm) and adjust the EZABL Probe Sensitivity to light up here.
Then at the CR10 Control Box I go to "Control" / "Motion" / "Z Offset" / "Z Babystep Z Offset"
and make this setting to -1.475mm.
Your final "Z Babystep Z Offset" setting may be different then what my final setting is,
so make your setting higher up and slowly adjust your Z Babystep Z Offset setting down
to its proper Z Offset setting
and remember to save your new settings "Store settings" after.


(e) Next adjust the EZABL Probe Sensitivity
This is done by turning the very small brass Adjuster Screw on top of the EZABL Probe Sensor.
Turning Clockwise to increase the sensitivity distance and Counterclockwise to decrease the sensitivity
distance between Heated Print Bed and the EZABL Probe Sensor.
Adjust the Sensitivity so that the LED Light just comes ON when Nozzle is at the proper distance between Heated Print Bed and the EZABL Probe Sensor.
Move by turning the Z axis up first and then back down until the LED Sensor Light just comes ON
at the same time when you have the proper paper Z gap between the Nozzle and the Heated Printing Bed.
Do this several times until you are confident it is repeating correctly every time.
When you have completed this step, it does not mean you have the proper Z gap setting yet, so when you run a test printing
you will need to watch for how the filament is printing on the first layer (see Adjusting the Z-Offset).

Adjust EZABL Sensor Sensitivity_b1.jpg
Adjust EZABL Sensor Sensitivity_b1
Sensitivity Adjuster Screw.jpg


(f) Next go to: Control / (press) Store Settings to save your new Z-Offset setting by going to Control / Store settings (store in memory).
(This will save your new Z home settings to the CR10 Control Box EEPROM).

Note: To view and adjust your Z-Offset setting by going to: Control / Motion / Z Offset:
Remember to save your new Z-Offset by going to: Control / Store Settings
My initial Z-Offset came out to be "0"

Adjusting Z-OFFSET
I had to lower my Z-Offset down to - 000.11 for it to be the proper Z home setting.
Your Z-Offset settings may be different then what I have.
By subtracting from "0" lowers your Nozzle toward the Print Bed.
Adding to "0" raises the Nozzle from the Print Bed.

Store Settings.jpg
Store Settings

Youtube video here "EZABL Bed Leveling": (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUqbRsf7RFs)
and "Setting your Z-Offset": (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXQF_PFcOiA).
Last edited by bob195558 on Sun Aug 05, 2018 12:12 pm, edited 40 times in total.
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Slicer Starting Gcodes / EZABL / Tramming Upgrade Mod

Post by bob195558 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:07 am

10) Next adding: TH3D EZABL New Slicer "Starting Gcodes"

You need to update your Slicer Starting Gcodes with this new TH3D ABL "Starting Gcodes".

To update the Slicer Cura program with the new ABL "Starting Gcodes"
find where Cura Starting Gcodes are: Preferences / Printers / Machine Settings / Starting Gcodes.
Copy these new Starting Gcodes below and replace the old Starting Gcodes.

G28 ; home all axes
G29 ; auto level
G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover
G1 X0 Y20 Z0.2 F3000 ; get ready to prime
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 F200 E25 ; extrude filament
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance again
M420 Z1 ; fade ABL off after 1mm


These new Slicer gcodes will operate the Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) mapping routine after
the Auto Home procedure has completed.
(Auto Home: X axis home, Y axis home and Z axis homed to the center of the Printing Bed).
Always leave your EZABL Sensor homed before you start a new print.
This will help to keep the EZABL Sensor temperature consistent for every print and will help to
keep everything at the proper temperature before it runs through the ABL mapping routine.
TH3D Starting gcodes_Feb202018_d.jpg
Copy the new TH3D Starting Gcodes and Paste them over the old Starting Gcodes, (replacing them).
Will look like the photo above when done.

The Creality 3D Printers use the "FTDI F232R USB to Serial adapter chip" for the USB drivers.
You may need to install these USB drivers.
Creality 3D Printer Drivers – ALL Models: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... ll-models/).

Note: If you add G28 after the G29 it will turn OFF the ABL until G29 is run again.
==================================================================
Last edited by bob195558 on Fri May 25, 2018 3:28 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:06 am

11) Next: I did a test 3D Print using the USB connection between Slicer Cura and the CR10 3D Printer.
You can do your test 3D Print using your selected gcode (3D print) with your SD card if you so like to do also.
I printed right to the Glass Heated Print Bed using temperatures of 65 C and the Nozzle Printing temperatures at 215 C.
(I am using filament eSUN PLA+)

Note: I did need to adjust the Z-Offset down a little to get the proper Z-Printing-Gap (see how to adjust Z-Offset).
I had to set my Z-Offset down to - 000.11 to have a proper Z printing gap, your Z Offset setting should be different then what I have.
I did not use the Z reading at the home LCD display when making these setup adjustments.
How much you may need to adjust your Z-Offset will depend on what your Print Bed surface (material) is made of.
Also I do not think it is necessary have a USB connection to a PC to make the final installation setting of the TH3D EZABL Probe Sensor.
Note: When the CR10 3D Printer is homing axis's, the Z-axis will move up 5mm when done, this is normal.
The Z-Offset setting is only for fine adjustment of the Z-Printing-Gap (Z home setting to the Print Bed).
Remember to save your new Z-Offset setting by going to: Control / Store settings.
Preheat PLA.jpg
Preheat PLA
(a) Preheat Printer Bed and Nozzle selecting: "Preheat PLA"
(press control box button to make selection which starts the preheating process).
(b) Next I selected: "Auto Home"
(c) Next: Start your test 3D Print
(d) When the Print Bed and Nozzle come up to there proper temperatures the EZABL will begin the mapping of the heated Print Bed surface .
(e) When done, Print Head will moves to the front left corner, extrudes a mess of filament and then begin printing your test 3D Print.

Note: For a test 3D Print, I selected one of the Raspberry Pi Case here: (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1878728).
You can choose anything you want for a test 3D Print, something that you have 3D printed well before is best to use.
1st EZABL Print_a.jpg
1st EZABL Print_a
1st EZABL Print_b.jpg
1st EZABL Print_b
1st EZABL Print_c.jpg
1st EZABL Print_c
2nd EZABL Print_d.jpg
2nd EZABL Print_d
2nd EZABL Print_e.jpg
2nd EZABL Print_e
2nd EZABL Print_f.jpg
2nd EZABL Print_f
2nd EZABL Print_g.jpg
2nd EZABL Print_g
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed May 16, 2018 1:09 pm, edited 13 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:16 am

12) Next:
If you want to send Gcode Commands and do not have Simplify3D or Octoprint, you can uses "Gcode Sender - Pronterface" to
USB connect between your PC and CR10 Printer.
Download Pronterface here: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... onterface/)
Gcode Sender_Pronterface.jpg
Gcode Sender_Pronterface


And for more info see the TH3D EZABLGuideV152: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/download/eza ... ion-guide/).
Note: Tim H. at TH3D hopes to update the EZABLGuideV152 next month.

Adjusting the Z Offset
3D Printer setting gap distance.jpg
3D Printer setting gap distance
Z-Axis Gap Setting_b.jpg
Z-Axis Gap Setting_b
Last edited by bob195558 on Wed Mar 28, 2018 12:06 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade / Mod

Post by bob195558 » Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:08 am

BabyStep Feature
BabyStep Feature, is used to quickly adjust the distance between the Nozzle and the Print Bed
which is ONLY for the current Printing Job, after current Printing Job BabyStep value returns to 0.

(August 3, 2018) Update Note: new feature Baby Stepping feature can be connected with the Z-Offset setting in the TH3D firmware.

Z BabyStepping Feature can be done on-the-fly, while you are printing your current Printing Job .
To use BabyStep, Press the Menu Button 2 times (pausing a little between each press).
BabyStep moves the Z-axis about 0.1 to 0.2mm for each Babystep.
When you see your filament gap is to high or to low when your printing job begins,
you can make Z BabySteps to adjustments your Nozzle Gap.
Turning the menu knob to the left will bring the nozzle closer to the Print-Bed (in real time)
and turning menu knob to the right moves the nozzle further away from Print-Bed.

ONLY the present Babystep value is held for your current Print Job.
After your current Print Job is finished the Babystep value goes back to a 0 value.
That's why it is so CONFUSING !
You still need to adjust your Z-Offset value for your next Printing Job.
Or use the Babystep Feature every time you begin a new Print Job.
Also the Babystep Feature ONLY works after you have started your current Print Job.



Video of TH3D version to set the Z Offset: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXQF_PFcOiA).
Also this video setting Z Offset: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5M7DvdMcew).

(paper thickness of .004" / 0.1mm).
Last edited by bob195558 on Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:15 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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CR10 3D-Printer, P.I.D. Auto Tuning Hotend Temperature

Post by bob195558 » Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:30 pm

3D Printer P.I.D. Auto Tuning Hotend Temperature

What is P.I.D. Tuning?
P. I. D. (Proportional Integral Derivative) is the system the printers use for holding a set temperature.
This system controls how fast the printer reaches the set temperature and how well it holds that temperature once it gets there.
Without having P.I.D. Tuning, numerous problems can arise.

For more helpful info see TH3D P.I.D. Auto Tuning Guide: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... une-guide/)
and Marlin gcode Commands here: (http://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/).

Getting Started with P.I.D. Auto Tuning
You will need the Unified Firmware flashed to your CR10 Printer Control Box: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... -firmware/).
It is helpful to use the GcodeSender Pronterface to view the PID Tuning progress and to send some gcode commands like: M503
Find the GcodeSender Pronterface here: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... onterface/)
or you can find it in your TH3D firmware download package.
USB connecting Pronterface to your CR10 Printer go to the upper left hand corner
and select the Com Port for your 3D Printer, next set the Baudrate to 115200
and then select Connect.

Steps used to run the P.I.D. Auto Tuning

1) Go to: "Control" / "Temperature" / "PID Autotune"

2) Turn the selector knob to make this setting to be: 240
(which is used for the Stock CR10 Hotend).
Note: If you have an All Metal Hotend installed, then make this setting to be 250.

3) Next press the selector knob, which will Start the P.I.D. Auto Tuning.

4) Then back-out of these menus to the home "Info Screen" by selecting the up-arrows.

5) The TH3D P.I.D. Auto Tuning process will go through 6 to 10 cycles of heating up to 225c and cooling down
and after this will apply the new PID Tuning values automatically.

6) Next you will need to SAVE the new PID Tuning Values, by going to: "Control" and selecting "Store Settings"
This will SAVE the New PID Values to the CR10 Printer EEPROM.

7) Next go to the GcodeSender Pronterface and in the lower right hand corner
and enter the gcode command: M503
This will verify by showing that the New PID Values have been saved to your CR10 printer's EEPROM.


P I D  Auto Tuning_Aug 11 2018.jpg
CR10_2 times_ P.I.D. Auto Tuning _ August 11 2018
Last edited by bob195558 on Tue Aug 14, 2018 1:05 am, edited 8 times in total.
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CR10 3D-Printer, Updating TH3D Unified Firmware

Post by bob195558 » Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:40 pm

Flashing Updated TH3D Unified Firmware to the CR10 Melzi Control Board

1) CR10 Melzi Control Board with the Bootloader installed, download the newest
TH3D Unified Firmware: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... -firmware/).
As of March 10, 2018 the newest TH3D Unified Firmware version: TH3D_UFW_U1.R1.4

2) Go to the TH3D Firmware Folded Pack and open sub-folder "Windows Arduino" and click on "arduino.exe" to open the Arduino program.
You can also click on the "OpenFirmwareWindows.bat" which is a shortcut to opening the Arduino program.

3) With the Arduino program open, USB connect your PC to your CR10 3D Printer and power up your CR10 3D Printer.

4) Next go to: Files / Examples / 11.ArduinoISP / ArduinoISP
This opens a new Sketch (ArduinoISP) which you will now use.

5) Next go to: Tools / Board / Sanguino(1284P Boards)
Selecting: "Sanguino(1284P Boards)"

6) Next go to: Tools / Processor / ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16MHz)
Selecting: "ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16MHz)"

7) Next go to: Tools / Port / COM3
Select the proper COM Port for your CR10 3D Printer.
My USB COM Port is COM3, but your USB COM Port maybe different.


8) Next go to: Tools / Programmer / Arduino as ISP
Selecting: "Arduino as ISP"

9) Next go to: File / Open /
and then find the TH3D Unified Firmware version like: TH3D_UFW_U1.R1.4
and open it.
Next open the folder: Firmware / TH3DUF / TH3DUF.ino
Select: "TH3DUF.ino" and OPEN

10) This opens a new Sketch (TH3DUF) which you will now use.
Click on the tab named: Configuration.h
Sketch: (TH3DUF - Configuration.h)

11) Reading the instructions as you progress down, you will make selections that you need for your CR10 3D Printer.
To make a selection remove the two hash marks // in front of each option that you choose.
Removing the two hash marks is called uncomment.

12) I choose (to uncomment) for my CR10 3D Printer the following selections.
=======================================================
Creality CR-10 Options - Select Sanguino(1284P) from Tools
=======================================================

(uncomment //): #define CR10
(uncomment //): #define EZABL_ENABLE
(uncomment //): #define CR10_OEM

13) Next I moved down to
==============
TH3D EXTRAS
==============
Because of the un-flatness of my Print Bed, I change the: #define EZABL_POINTS 4 to:
#define EZABL_POINTS 5.

14) Next I uncomment:
// If you want to keep your heaters ON during probing uncomment the below line. We do NOT recommend doing this on AC beds.
(uncomment //): #define HEATERS_ON_DURING_PROBING

15) Next by selecting the Upload button, the firmware will begin Compiling before it Uploads to your CR10 Melzi Control Board.
Arduino will let you know when Uploading is done. You then should have successfully flashed the new TH3D Unified Firmware.

16) After this you may need to reset your Z offset.

17) Next run the P.I.D. Auto Tuning Hotend Temperature procedure,
see here: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 15#p136360).


Here is a TH3D youtube video that has helpful info also: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SXoKHhneI8).
Last edited by bob195558 on Sat Aug 11, 2018 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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EZABL Case Moved Inside, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade Mod

Post by bob195558 » Mon May 14, 2018 1:24 pm

MOVING EZABL Case Inside CR10 Control Box

I install the Direct Wire "EZABL Case" to the inside of my CR10 Control Box
(upper right side toward the back, see picture).
I cut the EZABL Sensor Probe Wire (about 6 inches from the EZABL Case) and soldered a 3 Wire Connector Plug
between the EZABL Sensor Probe and the Auto Bed Level Sensor Board (EZABL Case).
The EZABL Sensor Probe Wire is fed through the rear of the CR10 Control Box
and connects to the new 3 Wire Connector Plug.
The 12v from Power Supply to the EZABL Case is now connected internally.
Older external 12v Power connection: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 72#p135864).
Installing the EZABL Case inside the CR10 Control Box makes this upgrade to
have a much cleaner look (less wires and stuff outside the CR10 Control Box).
The EZABL Sensor Probe is working properly with this mod.

Direct Wire EZABL Case_c.jpg
Direct Wire EZABL Case Inside 3D Control Box
101_0524.JPG
(Raspberry) EZPi-Octopi upgraded too.
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Updating CR10 to the Testing TH3D_UFW_U1.R2.T3 Firmware

Post by bob195558 » Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:09 pm

Updating CR10 to the Testing TH3D_UFW_U1.R2.T3 Firmware

Note: Testing Firmware may contain bugs, so when trying any new testing firmware be aware that there may still be some bugs.
Report all bugs to the #beta-testing channel on TH3D Discord server: (https://discordapp.com/channels/4570819 ... 1476278313).
This is where Tim at TH3D is tracking all firmware bug issues.

1) Download newest TH3D Testing Firmware: (https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-ba ... -firmware/).

2) Connect your PC with USB cable to CR10 Printer.

3) Unzip download and open the "OpenFirmwareWindows" (Arduino IDE 1.8.5 Presetup program).

4) At the top of the Arduino 1.8.5 tab menu click "Tools" and select:
"Board" / "Sanguino(1284P Boards)"
"Processor" / "ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16MHz)"
"Port:" / "COM_" (Select the proper USB COM Port for your CR10 Printer) My Port was COM3 your Port maybe different.
"Programmer" / "Arduino as ISP"

5) Next drop down to the next row of tabs and to the right click on: "Configuration.h"
Read and follow the instructions for your 3D Printer.
Here you will Uncomment to make the proper selections for the CR10 Printer.
Uncomment means removing the 2, // in front of the #define

6) I have TH3D upgrades installed on my CR10 Printer, which are EZout, EZABL and EZPi-Octopi.
The following lines that I uncommented and/or made changes to are in green:
Drop down to:
60: //=================================================================
61: // Creality CR-10 Options - Select Sanguino(1284P) from Tools > Board
62: //=================================================================
Uncomment the following lines:
63: #define CR10
70: #define EZOUT_ENABLE
75: #define CR10_OEM

7) Drop down to:
288: //====================================================
289: // EZABL Advanced Settings
290: //====================================================
The following lines that I uncommented and/or made changes to are in green:
295: #define EZABL_POINTS 7
303: #define EZABL_PROBE_EDGE 20
311: #define BABYSTEP_OFFSET
314: #define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF
317: #define HEATERS_ON_DURING_PROBING

8) Drop down to:
350: //====================================================
351: // TH3D EXTRAS
352: //====================================================
392: // MISC --------------------------------------------
397: // Use your own printer name
Uncomment and/or Change in the following lines are in green:
398: #define USER_PRINTER_NAME "TH3D Test3 CR10"
450: #define NEW_JERK_CONTROL
451: #define NEW_ACCELERATION_CONTROL

9) Next click the Checkmark (upper left-hand corner) to Compile Sketch (to verify no errors).
You may see something like this at the bottom when done compiling:
Archiving built core (caching) in: C:\Users\Bob10\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_cache_503890\core\core_sanguino_avr_sanguino_cpu_atmega1284p_5b445a439d6b69b26706e8ff13e26290.a
Sketch uses 126836 bytes (97%) of program storage space.
Maximum is 130048 bytes.
Global variables use 5128 bytes (31%) of dynamic memory,
leaving 11256 bytes for local variables.
Maximum is 16384 bytes.

Sketch uses 126836 bytes (97%) of program storage space.
Maximum is 130048 bytes.
Global variables use 5128 bytes (31%) of dynamic memory,
leaving 11256 bytes for local variables.
Maximum is 16384 bytes.


10) Next click the Arrow (upper left-hand corner) to begin the Upload to the CR10 board.
This will do Compile Sketch again first before "Uploading".
When finished should see "Done uploading."

11) After Uploading is done be sure to reset your EEPROM back to its defaults.
You can send GCode "M502" to reset your EEPROM and then "M500" to Store setting (save all new settings).
If you need a GCode Sender program, go to the downloaded testing firmware package
and click on: "Extra Programs" / "GCode Sender" / "Pronterface".
Or you can go to the CR10 Control Box and select: "Control" / "Initialize EEPROM" (also this maybe labeled "Restore failsafe").
Remember to: "Store setting".

12) Next run the P.I.D. Auto Tuning Hotend Temperature procedure,
see here: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 15#p136360).
Then: "Store setting".

13) After this you may need to reset your Z-Offset using the BABYSTEP_OFFSET feature.
Go to: "Control" / "Motion" / "Probe Z Offset" / (screen for) "Probe Z Offset : _._ _ _"
Remember to save your new settings: "Store setting" when done.
Last edited by bob195558 on Fri Aug 17, 2018 6:59 pm, edited 11 times in total.
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Re: CR10 3D-Printer, EZABL Bed Leveling / Tramming Upgrade Mod

Post by bob195558 » Sat Aug 11, 2018 5:29 pm

List of Testing TH3D_UFW_U1.R2.T3 firmware, uncommented Default lines
that are in Configuration.h tab.
(Arduino IDE 1.8.5 Presetup program).

Note: The lines that are uncommented by Default which I have colored Orange need nothing changed to these.
The numbers that are green, I have made custom changes to these.

35: #ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
36: #define CONFIGURATION_H
37: #define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010110

295: #define EZABL_POINTS 4

303: #define EZABL_PROBE_EDGE 15

320: #define EZABL_OUTSIDE_GRID_COMPENSATION

326: #if ENABLED(CUSTOM_PROBE)

346: #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
347: #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
348: #endif

358: #define CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE 999

362: #define TITAN_EXTRUDER_STEPS 463

367: #define DUAL_HOTEND_X_DISTANCE 18.0

436: #define X_HOME_LOCATION -10
437: #define Y_HOME_LOCATION -10

444: #define LINEAR_ADVANCE_K 0

466: #define LCD_LANGUAGE en

468: #include "Configuration_backend.h"

470: #define UNIFIED_VERSION "TH3D U1.R1.10"

473: #endif // CONFIGURATION_H
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme, Er9x on 9x with Smartieparts Programmer with TelemetrEZ Board
3D Printing: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=85)

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