Switch Upgrades

[jhsa]

Ok, that seems to be fixed.. but the The ELE trim still show as THR trim on the sim.. But if I move the ELE trim on the sim, it also affects the elevator channel.. A bit confusing.. It looks like the sim is not coping very well with the FM trims.

For example, I close the sim, then zero all the trims FM0 (Trims Tab) and FM1. Start the sim, And when I flick the RUD switch to switch modes the ELE trim moves by a large amount. Can't understand it.. All the trims are Zeroed..

[jhsa]

Mike, there is still a problem.. when I load that model of mine I posted above, when I switch modes the throttle trim still moves instead of the ELE trim..
If I reset the ELE trim to zero in the FM menu, when the flight mode is OFF, The trims seem to start working correctly. If I reset the ELE trim to zero with the FM on, it doesn't start working correctly.. Only when doing it with flight mode off..

AHH, If I change the trim value again with FM on, the thr trim responds.. gggrrrr, don't understand anything of this..
It seems nothing changed Mike.. Are you sure you uploaded the right file? I noticed that the file inside the zip was from the 26.05.2014 23.59
It doesn't seem to be the correct one.. And the same problems I had yesterday are still there

João

[MikeB]

I fixed the entry of trim values to the MODES page (date-time of file is correct).
I still need to check on how trim values are passed to the SIM, it's quite confusing with stick modes, crosstrim, and flight modes all affecting trim values.
I'll look tomorrow.

Mike.

[MikeB]

I've posted another test version of eepskye. This improves the trim handling between the editor and the SIM.

Mike.

[jhsa]

Testing..

[jhsa]

Mike, just had a quick look and loaded my model I had problems with.. It seems all is working as it should now.. more testing later. Thank you..

João

[Reacher10]

Hey guys...I need some help. I'll start another thread if you want me to but this is what happened.

I swapped the 2 pos ELE switch for a 3 pos switch. I was very careful about it but I ended up hooking
the signal wire to ground and vise verse.

The first thing was that the screen was upside down and part gobbly gook then it just got progressively worse...letters
were all blurry, screen was not centered until after a few restarts I no longer have anything on the screen.

I removed the 3 pos switch as soon as I first saw that the optrex screen was messed up and put the 2 pos
switch back in but like I said it just got worse and worse. I went to an older FW, older eeprom, original LCD to no avail.

The radio is working just fine other then the screen is blank.

What kind of damage could have occurred? What could I check?

This happened last Friday and to be honest, I'm absolutely devastated...I really had to just walk away and get my wits
about me...I love this radio and one of my aircraft is grounded because it needs more then 8 channels.

I'm devastated......

[MikeB]

Sorry to hear this.
Make sure you have turned off the ELE 3POS setting in the menu (set to 2POS)
I can't see what damage specifically might have occured. The thing to check is the LCD_WR signal. This is the signal you connected to.
Suggestions:
1. Check the via you soldered to is still connected to the LCD (J16 pin 4) and the processor (pin 21).
2. Check this via does not have a short to adjacent vias.
If these checks are all OK, try wiring a resistor (say 2K2) between this via and ground. This will make sure the LCD sees a logic 0, even if the processor is not outputting anything.

Mike.

Edit: Do you have an oscilloscope?

[Reacher10]

OK Mike ...I'll check those things out. Nah...no scope.

Thank You
Rick

[Reacher10]

A small miracle. I checked those connections and they are OK. After probing around for a bit I just decided
to turn it on. There was a legible screen however very faint. I could see it well enough to turn up the
contrast and it looks good. I had lowered the contrast and then burned the eeprom so that is why it was so low.

Except, it is off center with the right side blocked for one character. Also down the left side there is a dark band.

The only screen I see thats effected is the custom switch page. I can't read the switch number. I don't mess with
switches in the field so I can use the PC for any mixes where I need a switch. By switch I'm referring to virtual
switches.

I really do not need more 3 pos switches.....I love my radio.

That 9XR Pro is looking like a perfect back up radio. This was not fun.

I'll just put it thru it's paces and see if it's OK.

Mike, Thank You so much for your help. WOW!

[MikeB]

In updating the EEPROM, you have turned the 'Optrex Display' option off. This is why you have the dark band.

Will you have another go at adding more 3-POS switches? Changing one of AIL and GEA just requires wiring into the DAC1 signal.

Mike.

[Reacher10]

oh, I think I do have the optrex display turned off. When I get home later I'll check that. If that is causing it then that would be a super bonus.

To be honest, I really can't afford to have this radio go down so I'll have to weigh it out.

What is required to connect to the DAC1 signal?

[MikeB]

On the REV B board, DAC1 is on J23 pin 5, labelled EXT4 on the "EXT I/O Connector", see this post: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=545#p6423.

Replace, say, the AIL switch with a 3-POS switch, centre pin to ground, one of the other pins to the existing AIl signal and the other to the pin above.

Mike.

[Reacher10]

It was still set to to Optrex display off. It is back to normal. I wonder what really did happen? Maybe there was a minuscule solder bridge form my work and it was dislodged when I was probing. All I know is that was just down right scary.

Hooking into the DAC1 looks pretty straight forward, I have a 3 day weekend coming up so I give it a go.

Mike I have to tell you, I started messing with Arduino to make a nifty voltage display for my planes and so I'm learning C++. I'm getting a handle on, in fact this basic language course I took in 11th grade way back in 1977 has actually helped a lot in understanding C++.

The work that you are doing is unbelievable, it's brilliant and how immersed in it you need to be is really nothing less then admirable...Sir...my hat is off to you and Thank You...a huge WOW!

[RCHH]

A big +1 on that. The man is writing the future of RC model control!

[MikeB]

I'm learning C++.

While the code for ersky9x (and er9x) is compiled as C++, most of it is in fact plain C. This is partly because C++ generates more code, and it just doesn't fit on the stock 9X with a Mega64.

Mike.

[MikeB]

I think I've sorted the code, in general, to use a 6-position switch in place of the ELE switch.
I basically used one of the 6-position switches from FrSky. I had to add a resistor to get enough difference between the positions to guarantee the analog value is read reliably.
I still need to sort one problem that seems to be specific to this sort of switch. When you change the switch, it doesn't switch cleanly to the next position but can jump to one end first. It needs some "de-bouncing".

Mike.

[jhsa]

So, in my case I would just have to replace the 3 pos switch I have in there now
Just asking. I don't have a 6 pos switch and I don't need one

João

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[MikeB]

Yes, that's all I've done.
I may add some calibration, at the moment it is hard coded to the resistor values I have.

Mike.

[jhsa]

My 3 pos switch is still working fine.
Today ordered some jst plugs for connecting the bluetooth module to the mainboard, thanks Brent for letting me know which ones are used , and will be able to put the Ele switch pin back on the connector. It is now empty because I moved it to the other side of the connector when replacing the switch. Then will have the possibility of replacing one more 2 position switch will see if I might need another.. the switches i ordered still didn't arrive after more than 3 weeks..

João

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[MikeB]

Got the de-bounce for the 6-pos switch sorted, and if you select the ELE switch as a mix source, with it set to 6-POS, you get 6, evenly spaced, positions on the output.

Mike.

[LTMNO]

I think I've sorted the code, in general, to use a 6-position switch in place of the ELE switch.
I basically used one of the 6-position switches from FrSky. I had to add a resistor to get enough difference between the positions to guarantee the analog value is read reliably.
I still need to sort one problem that seems to be specific to this sort of switch. When you change the switch, it doesn't switch cleanly to the next position but can jump to one end first. It needs some "de-bouncing".

Mike.

Interesting. I hear people on OpenTX are experiencing the same problem. I haven't installed mine yet on my Taranis. Was thinking if buying another for my er9x t9x. . I like this ELE switch mod.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LTMNO]

Can you replace a 3 POS switch on the Taranis for the 6 POS switch? Or does it only work on the POTS?

[MikeB]

It needs an analog input so only works instead of a pot.

Mike.

[LTMNO]

got it, thanks.. well, i guess i am going to remove my S1.
Or
Can i remove one of the sliders?
are they analog?

[MikeB]

They are analog.

Mike.

[LTMNO]

So that is great, I can use it then.. and should work with Taranis and OpenTx..
Sweet... i have no use for Sliders... just Multicopters I am flying.. and I have 1 left over if i really need it.

Thanks again Mike!

[LTMNO]

Well, that was a success. Works well... I have noticed however that there are some menus that do not have the LS in them.

[MikeB]

So you have replaced the left slider on the Taranis with 6-position switch?
Which firmware are you using, and which menus don't have LS in them?

Mike.

[RCHH]

Just flashed to the latest test version, and notice that if I revert the ELE setting back to a 2-Pos switch in the HARDWARE menu, the entries for THR and RUD vanish. Can you confirm that is as intended?