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For the telemetry, the wires leave the pins and go towards one end of the board and for the encoder they leave the pins and cross over the other and go towards the other end of the board.
I have now wired to the three processor pins, and I have my encoder, and its switch, being read by the Mega64.

Mike.

well, I'm sure you will post some pics soon

On my telemetry mod, the wires go around the mega 64 anticlockwise.. I think that normally people lay them clockwise.. But I guess that the wire after it's soldered first go straight and then we can turn it to anywhere we want.. My biggest problem is not to touch the telemetry ones

João

Hi, wrong place for this I know, but I'm getting ready to ship out PCB's to folks who've only ordered PCB's (Wheels and pins will be on their way soon), and it's getting pretty confusing out there. Folks have real names, forum names, and email addresses, and foreign currencies, that don't all line up. So...

If everyone who ordered PCB's, encoder wheels, or pins could PM me with your: real name, shipping address, paypal email address, and list of what you ordered, that would make life a lot simpler for me, and I'll be mailing out PCB's today.

Thanks!
Dan

You should have those info when you receive your paypal payment. It should be in the paypal record. but will do pm as well.

will do as soon as i get home. João

You have to get home to find your real name and address?

no but it is a pain to do it from my c***py phone.. I was at the field flying, and the weather was beautifull. Flew until it got nearly dark. Not very often we get days like today here. would you be sending mails if you were me?

João

kaos wrote:I certainly would choose the TelemetrEX approach since I have not done the telemetry mod on my smartie 9X. May be TelemetrEZ would consider to put these connector pin header on it for easy integration.

At the risk of getting my head bitten off by Leo...

I'm more than happy to mod the TelemetrEZ for this adaptation. I just don't have the time right now to thoroughly go through everything to see exactly what needs to be done. If someone wants to give me a clear outline of EXACTLY what is needed on the TelemetrEZ... I'll add it.

I'm gathering its a matter of having a 3-pin header and traces going to 3 of the unused gpio? Or is it just one gpio and power/ground? Whatever it is, I'll do it... but I expect to firm up the TelemetrEZ hardware and get it off to production this week so I need it fast and accurate.

- Steven

At the risk of getting my head bitten off by Leo...

Just stuff a couple cans of beer in Leo's mouth , he will be fine. don't worry.

s_mack wrote:I'm gathering its a matter of having a 3-pin header and traces going to 3 of the unused gpio?

4-pin header: 3 GPIO and ground. Pull-up resistors on the GPIO lines (10K should do, or just use uC internal pull-ups). Some kind of de-bounce circuit wouldn't hurt but probably isn't entirely necessary - de-bounce can be done in code.

Thanks. Mike said most of the same a few hours ago on the TelemetrEZ thread.

De-bounce circuitry (primarily RC) needs to be tested and tweaked. A latch setup is more accommodating, but I'm not familiar with the switch so I don't know if it would be appropriate or not. So I think I'll leave that to software

De-bouncing in the code will be best.

Mike.

I received my encoder mounting boards from Hippo today. They look great. Thank you.

I'm still struggling with my half dead stock board. but I'm interested on this lil' encoder.

how much for 1 (or 2) shipped to Portugal? If I solve my problems with the board I might get one of these...

board fixed! I'm up for 2 encoders. sending hippo a PM now.

Crucial wrote:I received my encoder mounting boards from Hippo today. They look great. Thank you.

Me too very nice . thanks Hippo!!

Is there a way to map a rotary encoder to a TX channel? It would be VERY convenient to use as a flight mode switch. At present i used a "discrete" potentiometer, but since i've got the encoder finally fitted...

The inclusion of a rotary encoder should make "virtual" input channels fairly easy. That is, input value(s) that aren't ADC conversions, but rather a simple counter in code, similar to a trim value. The value would be incremented or decremented with the rotary encoder, and the user could switch between multiple vChannels via a GUI interface on the main LCD and/or cycle through them with the encoder's select function.

Iksbob - so at present, there is no way? )))

Right, but such functionality might be included in a not-too-distant firmware update.

hello DAN
er9x updating to this mode is it too late to order
best regards J MICHEL

Hippo wrote:Hi, wrong place for this I know, but I'm getting ready to ship out PCB's to folks who've only ordered PCB's (Wheels and pins will be on their way soon), and it's getting pretty confusing out there. Folks have real names, forum names, and email addresses, and foreign currencies, that don't all line up. So...

If everyone who ordered PCB's, encoder wheels, or pins could PM me with your: real name, shipping address, paypal email address, and list of what you ordered, that would make life a lot simpler for me, and I'll be mailing out PCB's today.

Thanks!
Dan

Hippo wrote:Hi, wrong place for this I know, but I'm getting ready to ship out PCB's to folks who've only ordered PCB's (Wheels and pins will be on their way soon), and it's getting pretty confusing out there. Folks have real names, forum names, and email addresses, and foreign currencies, that don't all line up. So...

If everyone who ordered PCB's, encoder wheels, or pins could PM me with your: real name, shipping address, paypal email address, and list of what you ordered, that would make life a lot simpler for me, and I'll be mailing out PCB's today.

Thanks!
Dan

Dan, trying to contact you via PM re this

+1

Question about wiring up the iksbob and hippo board to a sky9x encoder header. I've looked through this thread but I haven't seen a wiring diagram for the 4 leads coming from the daughter board. Has anyone posted this and I just missed it? From looking at the datasheet and testing with my ohmmeter I think this is the right order for wiring. I'm not sure if the rotary signal matters or if they can be reversed and work the same.

Looks OK to me. The rotary signals define the direction as well as the stepping. If the response on the screen is wrong, just swap the two connections.

Mike.

Thanks Dan, (and Iksbob) for your efforts!
Received the boards last week sometime, I was on holiday.
Seems to be a good job in achieving what was to me an impossible task!
Well done, much appreciated!

Clive

I found that I didn't like the depth of the encoder so I added a 1.32 plywood spacer in between the encoder and the circuit board.

Crucial wrote:I found that I didn't like the depth of the encoder so I added a 1.32 plywood spacer in between the encoder and the circuit board.

Alternatively, you can carefully cut the tabs off the board (it may be necessary to slightly notch into the main circle of the PCB) so it clears the screw posts on the front panel. If you take that approach, just be careful when soldering the encoder/board/pin assembly to the main PCB - solder one or two posts, then check fitment and operation of the directional buttons before doing the rest.

That probably would have been quicker. The plywood did work well. I got it all soldered in and it fits great. Now I just have to put it back together enough to make sure I didn't wreck anything when taking out the old push buttons. That is not something I would want to do again if possible.

Removing the pushbuttons tends to be easier and have better results if you commit yourself to destroying them (rather than keep them in reusable condition) before you actually start. That is, clip each button's legs between the PCB and button body, then remove the body.
From there you can work on removing each leg individually: heat up the solder on one side, then quickly grab the long end of the leg on the opposite side using a pair of tweezers or precision pliers, and pull it out of the board. The tweezers/pliers will draw the heat out of the joint, making the solder freeze up... Thus the "quickly" part.
With the solid bits out of the way, cleaning out the PCB holes with a solder sucker or wick should be relatively easy. Dont' be afraid to re-fill a hole if it doesn't clear out completely the first time. Adding solder to the hole will better conduct heat down to the part that's not melting... The additional flux helps the solder flow as well. Lead-free solder (as is used on the 9X PCB) doesn't generally flow as nicely as leaded solder, so diluting the lead-free with leaded should help.