ERSKY9x Rev. B1 User Area

Orphee · Post by **Orphee** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:49 pm

It reminds me something... Lol

Post by **MikeB** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:54 pm

Bertrand: No other idea, sorry.

Hexperiance: New revision committed. I've increased the time before LONG button is recognised, I've often thought it is too short.

Reacher: Can't see anything wrong yet, the timer always blanks out on er9x as well, then comes back, not sure why, I'll have to look a bit more. Tried resetting it many times on my Tx, always came back.

Mike.

SkyNorth · Post by **SkyNorth** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:05 pm

LCD is 160 x 100 x 16 grey scales .... runs on I2C bus.
Digikey# NHD-C160100DIZ-FSW-FBW-ND

A mini din fits right into the 72mhz antenna hole.

There is a 8 pin mini-din glued in place of the charger connector.
This would allow for a USB connection , a serial port connection , and 2 more circuit connections (headphone , FPV power..)
without having to drill any holes.
-Brent

Post by **cre8tiveleo** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:32 am

Woot! Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!

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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?vtv4ri

Mechcondrid · Post by **Mechcondrid** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:14 am

bertrand i use a batch script to get rid of the delay it might be possible to include it at flash run time (after 1 or 2 seconds it could run) right now i just click flash select the firmware then double click the batch file on my desktop
i dont use the entire "start sam-ba..." line and it make the c9x flash run without any delay

Hexperience · Post by **Hexperience** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:55 am

Mike, r56 reverse polarity fixed my simulator problem. Thank you!!

Post by **bertrand35** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:07 am

The problem is now fixed (since this morning). Unless someone tells me it's not true

Bertrand.

Hexperience · Post by **Hexperience** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:11 am

Woo hoo!!! Full and Half are back!

Reacher10 · Post by **Reacher10** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:15 pm

In r56, when frhub is selected metric is the only option available. When WSHh1 is selected only imperial is available.

Options to select IMP or MET are no longer available.

Post by **MikeB** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:35 pm

It's the display of MET or IMP that is wrong, I think the option is actually being selected, you just can't tell what you have on that screen. I've fixed it in the source, the next revision will be correct.

Mike.

Reacher10 · Post by **Reacher10** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:06 pm

You're correct mike. It shows MPH on the telemetry screen. It just does't change on the selection screen.

Also the vibrating motor activates when I turn on the radio even though I do not have haptic selected for anything and have strength set to 0.

Post by **MikeB** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:40 pm

Does it stop eventually? Or is it staying on continually? If it stops, when is that, after the splash screen for example?

Mike.

Clivew · Post by **Clivew** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:30 pm

R56 haptic ok here, and now fires on neutral trim correctly.

Reacher10 · Post by **Reacher10** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:24 pm

The motor just acts as it should if you have it set for say a short beep, level 5, but I have haptic turned off.

Now today I finally had the opportunity to use the buddy box system. It took a little while to get both radio's sync'd
however once I did it was fine, ersky as the instructor and stock board with er9 as student. Now while I was using
it, the haptic kicked in on minute beeps, same deal, as it should if I had it selected.

I just tried here at home by itself and the haptic kicked in the same way as above.

If haptic strength is set to zero, there should be no haptic at all for anything...correct?

Clivew · Post by **Clivew** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:54 pm

Ah, I see what you mean. The haptic "volume control" isn't working.
I most likely missed a post, but how do you set the battery alarr(!)
Ah it might say alarm on the Optrex display? What does "5000"
actually represent?

Post by **Rob Thomson** » Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:42 am

I will pull in some new haptic code next week - it will sort this out.

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Post by **ShowMaster** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:39 am

I'm making time to fly my sky board DJT system again. Have we decided on the best regulator mods to do and what are they just to be doubly sure before I do them?

The WX is heating up more and more in LA so heat will be an issue soon. I know it's been asked by me before and duscused as well as a great overlay posted with options so I'll be doing something this week for sure.
Haptic, spesker added, using a 2 cell 1300Ma lipo.
I justt got word my leaders hobby (2) 9x radios will be delivered maybe Monday, 4/23 there in the area now.
I ordered them 4/9 at 1100 on the Bo list. Must have lucked out?
I'd conciderd canceling my order and here it is!
I'm set now with radios and can spend time with my sky board and os options and differant tx builds.
SM

Post by **jhsa** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:58 am

Hey SM, you can send some nice hot weather this way. it is B****y cold over here..

SkyNorth · Post by **SkyNorth** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:10 pm

The easiest mod is to move the Amplifier from 3.3V to 5V.
This gives a fairly predictable current draw from the 3.3V regulator , so as long as you dont over power it with a 3S lipo .. A 2S Lipo is perfect.
You cut one track and run one jumper wire to the 5V regulator, #30 wire wrap wire works good and can be feed through a bus hole

If you have a small piece of #12 or so copper wire that could be soldered on to the tab of the regulator , it would help as well
Be careful .. The tab is at 3.3V so the "heatsink" is live, so it cant touch any other parts of the circuit.

The Other option is to use a 5V DC - DC convertor , this requires you to remove the 5v linear regulator , install the DC -DC convertor , cut one track
and add 3 jumper wires....and add a drop of glue to hold the convertor down. Plus you need to buy the $8 converter.

There is no easy "plug in method" as the "softpower" circuit needs "raw" battery power to function properly. So a plug in card will not help.
I tried to use the regulator on the "buzzer board" but again the "soft power" circuit would not function properly.

So I feel the easiest and most reliable fix (one cut , one jumper to 5V) will do for most.
And If you can add some extra surface area to the regulators ,it will help them run cooler in the very hot weather.

-Brent

Post by **Rob Thomson** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:04 pm

Any chance of a high res picture to show where to cut?

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SkyNorth · Post by **SkyNorth** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:12 pm

Here is the 3.3V to 5V amplifier - PCB Modification

Is this close enough?

Make sure you cut just the bit of track that connects to the via
(Via - round gold hole - this connects to the 3.3V power track on the other side of the PCB)
The other part of the track connects to the power pin of the Audio Amp.

using a ohm meter check to see that the Via and track are no longer connected.

Solder a small #30 - #26 piece of wire to the end of the Capacitor
Do this quickly , as too much heat will desolder the part and it will
stick to your iron.
Solder the other end to the +5V regulator output.

Power up the board , and check the 5V Output for 5V , and that there is sound out of the speaker.
If not ..shut off the power and check your connections.

-Brent

Post by **ShowMaster** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:49 pm

Perfect instructions and pictures. I'll do it today. OK on the tab being "hot".
I have wire wrap wire so I'm good to go.
I'm also going to stay with the 2s lipo for power. I like the life battery for all my other boards but the chemistry just is wrong to give some headroom using 2s and 3 is on the edge. It also seems that the big brand radios now all allow lipo usage so they must feel that lipo tx fires are uncommon with newer cell chemistry. I admit, of all the lipo fires I've seen in the last few years not one was a tx fire. Tx lipo's just failing, yes but that seemed to be one brand doing that.
Ok time to do it and try any new FW updates and go flying.
SM

Post by **ShowMaster** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:37 am

Here is my 5v reg mod and heat sink and 3.3v heat sink idea. # 14 coper wire because I had it. The orange wire is INSULATED wire wrap wire not bare from the 5 volt reg to the amp and haptic buss. I bent the wire and slightly flattened the side soldered to the heat sinks. I wanted to keep the profile low so they would not get bumped and because they are hot voltage wise. Easy to modify or make larger if more surface area is needed.

: #14 G wire 5v heat sink

: Orange wire is insulated wire wrap wire from 5v regulator

SM

Post by **ShowMaster** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:40 am

Board with modified 5v wire and heat sinks mounted in case.
SM

SkyNorth · Post by **SkyNorth** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:54 pm

Nice Heatsinks, there perfect.

FYI.
The USB port can be bent up at 90' , and you can access it through a small hole inside the battery compartment.
I did not solder the USB mounting tabs , so the part can be bent upwards once. a couple pieces of wire can be used to hold it in place.

-Brent

Post by **ShowMaster** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:57 pm

I posted earlier USB pictures showing the audio jack and USB holes and SD slot.
I'm good but it was hard getting the case holes/slot centered on the board connectors. It came out OK and I'll probably put some black tape over the holes to keep dirt out. I think I actually like not opening the battery compartment to flash like all my er9x builds.

About the heatsinks.
I can make them any size I just had a 6in piece of wire I could find so that's all I could make this time. The #14 wire is easy to bend I found and make take a little hitting before breaking the solder joint or board? I do believe it's an easy work around to adding more heatsink area to the regulators as well as elevating them more into the case. I tined and used some flux pen on the regulator tabs and Coper wire before soldering. If I make any HS changes I'm going to roughen up the wire more to make it more efficient.
I found my temp probe for my meter so I can run a dissipation test,
What's needed it a certain level, alarm, and a time sounding as a standard test for current draw and regulator heating tests.
That way we can compare results.
Any suggestions?

Audio amp at 5v question? Will the amp be ok at high volume running on 5v now?
My thought is we could add a diode in the new 5v buss wire and still be close to the original 3.3v but from the 5v reg.
Thoughts there please.
SM

SkyNorth · Post by **SkyNorth** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:32 pm

I agree with you on opening the battery compartment...

I have been playing around with the TO220 version of the regulator.
It is pin compatible with the SMT version
Mounting it this way , it put very little stress on the pcb pads.
And allows for a easy heatsink addon.

The amplifier is rated to a 5.5V supply...so there should be no problem at 5V.

With the mods you have done , and running a 2S lipo , you should be fine...The holes you added , also help with free air movement
inside the radio. We will have to come up with some alarm values...
-Brent

Post by **ShowMaster** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:14 pm

Good T0220 pictures. What camera? Mine is an older 2MP Fuji but it has a macro mode and I own it. Maybe something better in the future?
The T0220 mod looks good. If we can come up with a test tone and haptic alarm setting od maybe a test mix to heat things up I can measure the temp and see what my range is.
What's the best OS/FW to take advantage of all the Frsky hub telemetry sensors and alarms right now. Er9x, open9x? I want to show off my sky9x at the field and they are used to seeing my er9x TX in action. I want to show off the speaker. as well.
SM

SkyNorth · Post by **SkyNorth** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:55 pm

They are from a digital blue microscope
http://www.digiblue.com/qx5-computer-mi ... furbished/

Clivew · Post by **Clivew** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:43 pm

I have some "proper" TO220 heatsinks like this.
Shame the pinout of the reg is the wrong way round

I suppose I could fit the regulators upside down Brent?

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