Audio (voice) - Stock 9X PCB

[jhsa]

Well, I closed the radio's case again. I know, I know. Hopefully everything is working.. And I will not mess with the audio anymore
I'm happy with it now.. Still have to build one more for the other TX
Anuway, as I said on my post above, I did filter the 46KHz as much as I could without making a big damage to the sound.. this was the result..
With the earphone, only at zero volume I can hear a little bit of the noise.. but I'll never use it there.. I'm using a 16 ohm earphone but I think a 32 ohm would work as good..
The beeper's volume work quite well using a 2.2K resistor on pin 2 of the LM386 to the ground and, for the volume control, the same resistor values as per Mike's original schematic.. 2.2K and 1K


[BBvideo 425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eYNP_isaIc[/BBvideo]

[jhsa]

Well, I closed the radio's case again. I know, I know. Hopefully everything is working.. And I will not mess with the audio anymore
I'm happy with it now.. Still have to build one more for the other TX
Anuway, as I said on my post above, I did filter the 46KHz as much as I could without making a big damage to the sound.. this was the result..
With the earphone, only at zero volume I can hear a little bit of the noise.. but I'll never use it there.. I'm using a 16 ohm earphone but I think a 32 ohm would work as good..
The beeper's volume work quite well using a 2.2K resistor on pin 2 of the LM386 to the ground and, for the volume control, the same resistor values as per Mike's original schematic.. 2.2K and 1K


[BBvideo 425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eYNP_isaIc[/BBvideo]

[tigar]

Could you pull together all what is needed to build this? I lost you on the technical stuff.

[hageha]

The "T" version is dead.
Here is a design (still needs some cleaning) after Mike's idea, between the sticks.
Unilaterally, all SR1206, IC's on the bottom (Dil).
Advice (good) I gladly accept.

Hans


I added new PDF!

[jhsa]

Hans, is looking really good. Just a question though.. would it be possible to use bigger 10uF capacitors? still smd just a little bigger.. I think the 1206 ones are a bit hard to find, but maybe I didn't look in the right place Also, any possibility (with a solder bridge) to choose between 5V or battery voltage for the LM386?? at the moment I'm using 9.9V LiFe battery and I can power the LM with it, but people that use 12.6V LiPo can't as it is too high for it..
Another thing I do like on your board is the 5V output. Other devices could be powered from there in the future as the regulator can handle it..

Thanks

João

[hageha]

try this,
http://www.reichelt.de/Multi-layer-SMD- ... baf206a7c6
that with the bridge, I've had in memory.
I will try.
Hans.

[jhsa]

How the heck did I miss that? thanks

[hageha]

João,
if you want to use IC sockets, the "T" Board needs to be shortened.
With normal sockets missing 1.5 mm on the beeper.
I'm going to make a board.
Look at the updated PDF!

[jhsa]

I don't know if I understand what you mean, but I removed my beeper.. You could also install this board upside down I guess..
Also Hans, please check you Inbox, I've sent you a PM..

João

[hageha]

very clever, that works too. The problem is solved.
I did get one PM from you and respond.

[jhsa]

thank you..

[hageha]

Test run tomorrow.
I've moved a few things.
The holes should fit now.
Because of the dielectric strength, I will alternatively provide an electrolytic capacitor at the speaker output. The board can also be installed upside down.

[jhsa]

wooow. looking very good. the SMD are all around 1206 size, right? So, if someone could produce this board maybe would not be so hard for us to solder the components? well if I can do it...

[Oliver]

wooow. looking very good. the SMD are all around 1206 size, right? So, if someone could produce this board maybe would not be so hard for us to solder the components? well if I can do it...

It also could be transistors in TO-92 package. Now it is the smallest parts on the board, but there seems enough space on the board.

[tigar]

I would gladly start building if i could get the parts. The pcb looks that it can be done at home.
The german site posted above wants 20Euro shipping to Greece...

[Oliver]

Placed Hans's board into repository



Maked my own board. SMD 1206. UART to computer changed from RS232 to TTL 5v. But not tested yet.

On the pictures soldered 0603, don't be surprised. But board is maked for 1206. And at last moment I can't find LM386 in SO8, so I soldered DIP.

[jhsa]

I used the frsky USB to serial cable to upgrade my sound module but I also have this one on the picture below.
This is the cable that came with my DJT module.. the Frsky modules talk RS232..
Would this work with the sound module providing that the computer has one of those ports?
If so how could it be done?

Thanks..

João
P.S. - I do believe that FRSky messed up with the pinout on that photo. TX and RX seem to be swapped.
Maybe they intend to show where to connect and not what the pins really are..

[Kilrah]

This should just be a cable, no circuitry at all. Should work indeed, and yes the labels seem swapped...

[jhsa]

Thanks Kilrah.
So, this would do the same job as my frsky USB/serial cable then... would just have to connect it to the computer and to the serial port on the sound module..
I wonder what kind of com port I would have to use on the batch file that Mike provided to program the atmega with this cable..
Would it be the com1?

João

EDIT: Sorry for asking all these questions as I'm using the other cable, but this might help other people that own it, and myself if for some reason the other cable goes bad..

[JEANALTAYR]

hello
cable db9
jmi

[Kilrah]

Thanks Kilrah.
I wonder what kind of com port I would have to use on the batch file that Mike provided to program the atmega with this cable..
Would it be the com1?

Well you'd have to check on your PC to see what number that COM port has, and edit the batch file to put the same one.

But if your PC is less than 6-8 years old it usually won't have a COM port anymore.

[jhsa]

well, i happen to have 2 computers. One is about 100 years old and the other about 50. So I think that at least one must have a COM port.

[Oliver]

Maked my own board. SMD 1206. UART to computer changed from RS232 to TTL 5v. But not tested yet.

Tested UART TTL 5v schematic with FTDI adapter. Working good!

[jhsa]

nice.. and it saves some components I guess.. and is good to have 2 possibilities as some people might have one kind of interface and others might have another..

João

[jhsa]

This should just be a cable, no circuitry at all. Should work indeed, and yes the labels seem swapped...

And yet another question.. on the batch file the speed is set to 38400. Do we have top slow it down using this cable or is it ok?

Sorry if it is a stupid question, but it is better to ask it not knowing if it is stupid than not asking and not knowing that it wasn't stupid ..

João

[Kilrah]

No, the same. There's no difference at all in usage between both.

[jhsa]

thanks you all..
So, I just connect this to the port at the back of the computer and to the sound module, find the right COM port, edit the batch file, and I'm good to go..

[HC1969]

I ask you summarize the following connections (Why do need?):
PC - 328 ?
328 - M64 ?
PC - M64 ?

and the M64 is not a problem busy at the pins of serial port?

[MikeB]

You are asking why we need these connections?
PC-328:
1. We have a bootloader in the '328, so the main program may be updated using a serial connection.
2. I'm looking into providing a method to read/write the SD card using this serial connection from the PC.
328-M64:
Provide a method for the M64 to read/write the SD card (e.g. for model archive/restore).
PC-M64:
This is only the programming connections.

Mike.

[HC1969]

You are asking why we need these connections?
PC-328:
1. We have a bootloader in the '328, so the main program may be updated using a serial connection.
2. I'm looking into providing a method to read/write the SD card using this serial connection from the PC.
328-M64:
Provide a method for the M64 to read/write the SD card (e.g. for model archive/restore).
PC-M64:
This is only the programming connections.

Mike.

Thanks a lot!
Of these, only the bootloader you go (now)?