Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

er9x is the best known firmware. It has a superb range of features and is well supported by the community. Well worth trying out.
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jhsa
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by jhsa »

I think it will be spinning.. ;)
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by Iksbob »

You can't have both? ^_^
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kaos
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

Well, I did have both. :mrgreen:
Got everything put together, turn on the power, no beeps, the dreaded blue screen. :?
How the hell I could do that. pretty sure I check every solder join for shorts....
Took 20 min break, plug in the USB, I still can backup eeprom, flash memory without any problem. so cpu is not fried. what could be wrong?
open up the case again, unplug everything, replug everything. turn it on, same thing - blue screen.
Now I don't know what to do. Only screen is not showing anything, hit buttons there is beeps.
take a look a the LCD ribbon, what :o one side is not locked. push it down, the other side is popped up like a rocking leveler, both finger on it. now it is down. Turn the power back on.
Wala, gentlemen wheel encoder running, telemetry running. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
BUT, I fall into the wrong side of the 50%, the wheel is turning the opposite direction from my SKY9x Tx. Fortunately, I did decide to use a micro servo connector for A,B,S1. just switched the A,B. Now it is turning the right direction. Yehhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
I think this is probably the most difficult mod technical wise 6 dinky wires to the cpu. (other than replace with M128).
Heuw. Done.
thx for you guys' help and encouragement. :)

actually, this wheel encoder is functioning much better than my SKy9x Tx encoder. this one never miss a beat. My Sky9x encoder often have two hits at the same time, very sensitive. I wonder it is my encoder is bad or there is code in ERSKY9x is doing it.

A couple pics:
Attachments
ugly looking cpu soldering, but it works. ;)  <br />My 'bread board' is made of a clear plastic piece with the 3K9 epoxied on it then hot glued to the main board.  you can see the micro servo connector for signal wires connection.  Easy to switch the A,B wires. ;)
ugly looking cpu soldering, but it works. ;)
My 'bread board' is made of a clear plastic piece with the 3K9 epoxied on it then hot glued to the main board. you can see the micro servo connector for signal wires connection. Easy to switch the A,B wires. ;)
I still used the thin wire method, only this time I used 5 single strand EIDE cable, much smaller and compact then 30 gauge wire.
I still used the thin wire method, only this time I used 5 single strand EIDE cable, much smaller and compact then 30 gauge wire.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by Iksbob »

kaos wrote:I think this is probably the most difficult mod technical wise 6 dinky wires to the cpu. (other than replace with M128).
Nah. Replacing the processor is only difficult if you're trying to keep the one you removed. Otherwise, you just cut the leads on the old one and remove it, melt-and-slide to remove the individual leads, then clean off the pads with some solder wick, followed by alcohol to clean up any flux and residues.
To install the new one, put a tiny bit of solder on one pad, and then flux everything up... The board pads and the new chip leads. Set the chip in position (it will be crooked because of the solder blob) and melt the solder so it drops down flat. Check the chip alignment and re-position if necessary (re-melt the one leg/pad). Once the chip is in position, solder the leads on the opposite side of the chip. Don't worry about solder bridges, in fact go ahead and lightly bridge all the contacts - it will make the next part easier. Repeat with the other sides.
Next, solder-wick off the excess solder. Capillary action will leave plenty of solder between the chip leads and their respective pads, but remove everything else. Bridging the leads together lets the iron heat a whole side of the chip at a time, so you can clean from one corner to the next in one go. If a group of legs are giving you trouble (solder down between them where you can't wick it out), just add more solder and try again.
Finally, clean off the flux with alcohol so everything looks pretty.
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kaos
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

Guys, don't tempt me to do M128. Need to spend more time flying than 'cooking' cpu. :mrgreen:

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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by jhsa »

no comments.. ;) :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

kaos, do you have the stock board? Looking at your encoder pcb, you use only 5 wires from it in the flat cable. Is that all that is needed? I have my encoder on the pcb and now it's time to solder the wires.

BTW, I put the resistors on a tiny pcb where the wires from the cpu connect too and from there to the encoder. It's the first time I did SMD. It was not difficult at all. I had bought 10 resistors for just in case. Good thing I did. The first resistor disappeared after I placed it when I accidentally sneezed before it was soldered.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

yes, that is for stock board, 5 wires is all needed. 4 switch points and one goes to the ground. the I/P board, besides the 5 pins are all going to the gnd, basically is using pins as support. I am not using pins so 5 is all needed.
I was going to use smd resistor too. but it cost me 1.5 a piece at radio shack while the regular resistor is 1.50 for 5. so I end up using regular resistors.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

I bought more stuff from Mouser and there they were $0.05 each so I bought 10! :D
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

what mouser kills me is anything under 1lb they charge me 6.xx shipping. :( to get those smd for .50 merchant I have to pay 6.xx shipping. :(
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

You are right, kaos, and normally I buy form DigiKey. They cost $0.05 there too and shipping is less than $4 with USPS. But DigiKey did't had the rotary switch, only Mouser had it so I bought it there with the resistors and some other stuff, to make it worth my while paying the extra shipping.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

I have a frustrating time installing the encoder. Every time I install it it binds at the bottom.I wore out the threads twice already taking it in and out. I finally put it aside and will do it again tomorrow. I just need my distance from it. :)

Here it is with the wire that will connect it to the main board and with the wire installed.
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100_0535.JPG
100_0536.JPG
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by Iksbob »

I've seen the same close clearance on both of my radios, so it's possible my original board design has the encoder a fraction of a millimeter too low. The main-PCB mount approach has some wiggle room to compensate... Screwing the board to the front panel doesn't have that wiggle room. Try slotting the PCB screw holes a little to give yourself some space for adjustment.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

I used the Hippo board which is pretty thick, at the screw hole area, I trim the tab about half the thickness to raise the wheel high enough at the front. then trim off the screw about 1-1.5 mm then add two washers to fix the board with screw then use hot glue on the sides to stabilize it. Both of my wheel encoder seems to be working well.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by jhsa »

I tried but couldn't do it. Ended up damaging the posts too. From there had to do what I didn't want initially, that is use the pins. But it worked that way.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

Funny reading what you guys commented since I didn't get to the part where I install the mother board. All I tried, so far is to have the encoder installed and 'clicking' freely. It's the two screw pods for the encoder that I've worn out twice. :( I'll try again today. It helps sometimes to go away from a project and look at it another day.

BTW, my board is only 1.2mm thick and I find it to be too flimsy. It may be better once the mother board is installed but when I click on the sides of the encoder the whole board kind of presses down too and the encoder lowers. I may have to put some hot glue once the whole thing is reassembled.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by jhsa »

Hmm, maybe you don't know what I mean about the pins?

Have a look at this thread..

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1084

If I'm saying something that you already know, I do apologise

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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

JustinTime wrote:Funny reading what you guys commented since I didn't get to the part where I install the mother board. All I tried, so far is to have the encoder installed and 'clicking' freely. It's the two screw pods for the encoder that I've worn out twice. :( I'll try again today. It helps sometimes to go away from a project and look at it another day.

BTW, my board is only 1.2mm thick and I find it to be too flimsy. It may be better once the mother board is installed but when I click on the sides of the encoder the whole board kind of presses down too and the encoder lowers. I may have to put some hot glue once the whole thing is reassembled.
yep, the T9X tx box plastic is a funny material, it is very-very 'soft', it does not take much to wear out the threads in the hole. actually I believe you can ruin the thread by just one tight screw in, and it is done with. I found there are a couple holes in my tx, when brand new, they already put some kind of glue to glue the screw in. when I open the tx the 1st time I found the glue came out with the screw and have to clean it up. I think you may be able to do that too when the thread is ruined - just need the right kind of glue so you still can remove the screw.

if your pcb board is thin, you need to put a shim to add some distance between the board and the wheel or you won't be able to raise the wheel high enough to the front of tx. It is better to test if the wheel is poking out highe enough for you before you actually solder it to the pcb (just temporaryilf fix it with a drop of hot glue or something to check the height). I would never grind on the screw post plastic (shorten it), the plastic is already soft and fragile, you need as much screw thread to hold the screw. that is why I grind(shortened) the screw about 1.5 mm instead of grinding down the plastic post.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

I did check that the wheel pokes through. What I did is put some thick paper, folded into three, between the encoder and the board before I soldered it. As a result the encoder is high enough to poke through the transmitter. The binding that I get is with the hole where the encoder sits. I may have the board not drilled 100% accurate and as a results I have to sand the bottom of the hole in the transmitter until the encoder will sit tight and will not bind. I don't want to sand too much so I sand a bit and try. Take it out, send a bit and try. Once the hole was worn out I filled it with backing soda and CA. When I drilled it it didn't come out perfect center. Now I had to readjust to the of-center hole. In it goes, out it comes, readjust, in it goes out it comes and so on until the hole was worn out again. :) I'll try it again later. I'm in the middle of soldering the 5pos switch. Had to mill the board, drill it and now it's time to solder.
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

ah, i think that may be why jhsa and you got into trouble. I just drilled the hole on the pcb tab slightly larger than the screw, so i have some wiggle room. use finger to hole the board in place to check if the wheel is high enough. once ok, solder very thing and use washer and tightened up the screw once to hold the pcb. then with hot glue on both sides of the pcb board, that thing is not going any where.. I never put the screw back until it is ready not to be removed again. yes, the T9X plastic material is really bad for screwing over and over. :lol:
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by jhsa »

well, good that you tell us now about the finger... ;)
If I knew that before I would not have kept screwing the plastic material over and over, I would have used the finger instead and I would have saved the post :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by kaos »

You are all nice guys, I don't want to show you a finger you know. :lol: :mrgreen: Sorry, can't help it. :lol: :lol:
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by JustinTime »

I think that that's what I will do. I'll re-drill the holes in the board a bit bigger and than will screw it in, but not tightly, and once it's in place proper, with no binding, I'll tighten it. First I'll have to fill the holes in the casing, though. :)
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by OctavioS »

Is there any update on the "how to" with the TEz Board?
2x - Turnigy 9X with 9xtreme board;
2x - Turnigy 9XRpro ;
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by MikeB »

Are you asking if this: http://openrcforums.com/wiki/index.php/ ... ry_encoder has been updated?

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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by OctavioS »

My guess is that for this to work with the 9xtreme, I will have to plug the big wire from the back of the tx to both tez and 9xtreme. Right?
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2x - Turnigy 9XRpro ;
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by MikeB »

Ahhhh! So you want to use a rotary encoder with the 9Xtreme.

The Tez is specific to er9x on the stock board, it doesn't work with the 9Xtreme.
I'll need to get back to you on ways to add an encoder to the 9Xtreme.

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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by OctavioS »

Yes Mike, please. Make it an easy mod, my soldering skills are like the clothes of the Gollum in the Lord of the rings...almost none.
Thx!
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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by jhsa »

Hardware menu, possibility to use EXT pins for the encoder that are not being used for any other switch or push button?? :)

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Re: Stock/er9x Rotary Encoder

Post by OctavioS »

To solder the board to the rotary seems rather easy, but to solder tiny wires to processor pins or similar is a challenge for me and i prefer not to screw up.
2x - Turnigy 9X with 9xtreme board;
2x - Turnigy 9XRpro ;
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Horus x12s;
Radiomaster TX16S Max mark II.

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