My Taranis Spektrum module

Choosing an RF Module? What modules work? What is compatible with the 9x?
BustedWing
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by BustedWing »

I was hoping that too Philipp. Is it possible that the problem is with my taranis? I have a 99xr laying around. Is it worth loading the open tx on there and giving a go?

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Philipp
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Philipp »

Sure, your Taranis could be the problem. Without another known good JR module or alternatively a scope / logic analyzer you won't be able to tell though, you would have to measure the PPM pin in the module bay of your taranis.
You could flash your 9XR with openTX and give it a go, but rather than introducing more variables to the equation I would advise you to first test the bare RF modules in a known good system, eg. your DX5e, to eliminate them as a possible cause of failure ;).
BustedWing
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by BustedWing »

Well, soldered my dsm2 module (the original one from the dx5e) back into the dx5, and it works perfectly. I've also tried using a short wire in place of r2 again after the firmware revision, and tried my diy module in both, my taranis, and my turnigy 9xr. That DIY module just will not bind. The dsm2 module I speak of is at least 5 years old, so spektrum firmware changes/compatibillity issues are ruled out, right? Any other thoughts, or ideas before I order another board and go back to the drawing board?
windcatcher
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by windcatcher »

1. Is it possible to MOD orange JR transmitter module to use DSM2/DSMX signal out of taranis instead of PPM??
2. Are DSM/DSMX spektrum modules only a DIY projects or is it possible to buy it ready to use?
Maybe we should email Orange to start making them for taranis and 9xr.
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Kilrah
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Kilrah »

1) No.

2) DIY-only. The key is to use the module out of a Genuine Spektrum radio as it doesn't exist anywhere else.

jprikkel
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by jprikkel »

Bustedwing, how are you binding? On the 9x with er9x you hold the trainer switch while powering on. You could try er9x? Just making sure.

The output voltage is OK on the IC? Maybe it was fried? Polarity on the caps are correct? They may be in reversed?

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WZ9V
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by WZ9V »

I built a module based on the OSHPark board and blog by jrprikkel and can confirm it works fine on my Taranis B models with firmware 2.0.8 using both resistors as specified. The other two I built and sent off worked fine also. Either you have a problem with the connection to the external bay or something is solder wrong on the board. Check the caps, in your picture the diode looked right but I can't tell if the caps have the correct polarity.
AlexC
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by AlexC »

I also built my module using John Prikkel's board. I used the module from a DX5e and it works fine. This does not help you but at least you know the system works.
One thing I did notice with mine was the receiver had to be put into bind mode before the transmitter otherwise it would not bind.
BustedWing
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by BustedWing »

Thanks everyone for all your help with my module problems. I got it taken care of. My the bill of materials calls for a 4.7k ohm resistor in R2. I somehow got a .47 ohm resistor. Soldered the resistor in, and it works perfectly. Im very excited about this new module.
jprikkel
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by jprikkel »

Awesome. Glad you didn't give up! Great people on this forum. Happy flying.
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Philipp
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Philipp »

Awesome, happy flying!
Don't forget to do a rangetest first, though. ;)
ryane67
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by ryane67 »

I just got done creating one of these with slightly different components, a nice selection if anyone is not interested in making their own power supply or killing an otherwise working module.

I salvaged the RF module out of a DX4e but I wanted the tx to be available for Simulator so I could not harvest the power components.

Bought one of these little guys for a 3.3v power supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130756914807?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Bought a FrSky DJT case: http://www.alofthobbies.com/djt-case.html

Then just used some protoboard, pin headers to do the rest and it works flawlessly. Thanks so much for the thread!
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Philipp
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Philipp »

Sounds good!
If you like to upload some photos of it please do so, usually its the first thing people look at when they want to build one themselves.
superslow
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by superslow »

Got the spare board from busted. Just got done building. I made the opposite mistake and ordered 47k resistor as oppose to 4.7. After locating a 4.7k one I was able to get going. Still working on soldering skills but looks ok. I had to also flash firmware to above 2.+ on the tx. The first bind never bound against the umx radian dsmx. I tried a few times with out success. I ended up Turing the tx off and back in again and it bound after. I am not sure if this means anything. But a test flight seems to be ok. Thanks goes out to the board designer and every one providing help on this thread. Will report back if I encounter anything weird.
JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

I'll be ordering a Taranis Plus soon, and still wish to fly my small Blade nanoQX, 180QX, and mCPx. From what I've read, going the DIY route with a real Spektrum module is the way to go.

Has anyone ordered the PCB and parts and have any extra units they want to sell?

Thanks,

John
JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

Greetings once again.

I've got a used Spektrum dx4e heading my way. I'll plan to order the PCB from OSH Park, unless someone else out there has done a recent order, and has one they would like to sell. I'd PM some of the recent builders listed up-thread, but apparently I can't send PM's until my account has been vetted.

Aloft Hobbies is out of stock on the cases. Does anyone else have a source for a module case? I plan to use this in a Taranis.

Thanks for any insight, suggestions, etc. I need to brush up on my soldering skills. It has been a while. I wonder if my 20 year old solder and rosin needs to be replaced?

John
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Philipp
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Philipp »

Please make sure that the module is working as expected before you rip it out of the used DX4e, I learned this the hard way. Do some range checks before and after you transplanted it, to make sure nothing went bad during soldering ;)
You might want to checkout a replacement DM9 case, they are quite expensive and not for everybody because of the very special antenna arrangement, but I personally love it. Getting them in the US should be really easy.

When ordering parts, order a reasonable amount of extras, especially of the cheap parts. If you get more than one 12 pin DIL socket you can solder one into your DX4e, making quick and easy transplants between the DX4e and your DIY module possible. Might be useful if you run into trouble while testing your DIY module.
JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

Philipp wrote:Please make sure that the module is working as expected before you rip it out of the used DX4e, I learned this the hard way. Do some range checks before and after you transplanted it, to make sure nothing went bad during soldering ;)
Excellent idea. I'll be sure to bind at least one of my Blade quadcopters to the transmitter when it arrives.
Philipp wrote:You might want to checkout a replacement DM9 case, they are quite expensive and not for everybody because of the very special antenna arrangement, but I personally love it.
How about this case? It seems to be on-sale.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/rad ... le-spm6817
Philipp wrote:When ordering parts, order a reasonable amount of extras, especially of the cheap parts. If you get more than one 12 pin DIL socket you can solder one into your DX4e, making quick and easy transplants between the DX4e and your DIY module possible. Might be useful if you run into trouble while testing your DIY module.
Another great idea. Thank you!

I just placed the order for 3 of the PCBs from OSH Park. I got an email saying they were assigned to the October 12th panel, but that they have to fill up the panel before it is sent to the fabricator, so it might be a few days yet before it is created.

Next will be to place the component orders. I'm getting excited. This will be fun!

John
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Philipp
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Re: AW: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Philipp »

JohnOCFII wrote:
Philipp wrote:You might want to checkout a replacement DM9 case, they are quite expensive and not for everybody because of the very special antenna arrangement, but I personally love it.
How about this case? It seems to be on-sale.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/rad ... le-spm6817
That's it, if you look closely the sticker on its back reads 'DM9' [emoji6]
For $9,50 I cannot recommend it enough! It fits the taranis perfectly, the PCB does fit it exactly, too. And the right antenna is already included. I built my module using this case, have a look [emoji3]
JohnOCFII wrote:Next will be to place the component orders. I'm getting excited. This will be fun!
John
It sure will be! But be prepared for it to not work the very first time you power it up. However everybody in this thread seems to have got it working in the end.
jprikkel
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by jprikkel »

John, I have that case too. It is nice. Works great.
JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

jprikkel wrote:John, I have that case too. It is nice. Works great.
The case has been ordered.

I'm out on Mouser, filling my cart, and I notice your don't have specific links to resistors.

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component ... &P=1yzekid

I've not been in a place to select components before, and there seem to be LOTS of variables (Power Rating, Tolerance, Voltage rating, etc.). Would you be able to point out some working/recommended resistors?

Thanks,

John
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Philipp
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Philipp »

You just need a simple, small resistor of the right value that fits the holes on the PCB. In this case I would recommend 1/4 W, 5% tolerance, axial resistors. They are accurate enough for this kind of application, their power and voltage ratings are well above whats needed, they should fit the PCB perfectly and they are cheap as beans. I applied these options in the filter for you: http://www.mouser.de/Passive-Components ... or&FS=True

This one should work fine, just for reference: http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/KOA- ... Rvrd7TU%3d
JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

Philipp wrote:You just need a simple, small resistor of the right value that fits the holes on the PCB. In this case I would recommend 1/4 W, 5% tolerance, axial resistors.
Philipp,

Thank you so very much for taking the time to answer my simple questions. I really appreciate it.

The Mouser order has been completed and placed. Now I wait!

John
JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

I finally started to build the Spektrum module for my Taranis. Tonight's mission was to remove the Specktrum module from a donor dx4e. First off, I did test the dx4e before beginning the project. It bound cleanly to a nanoQX and the nanoQX flew just fine.

This was my first attempt at desoldering a component with more than two pins. OMG. It took me close to two hours. I would get my solder wick in place, heat things up, try to pull the soldering wick alongside the pin, set down the soldering iron, and attempt to pry the TX board off. I must have gone through that process 15 times. The solder wick didn't seem to magically soak thinks up enough to allow me to cleanly pull the boards apart. My thumbs are raw from the prying.

I did eventually succeed, but I have two questions.

First, do I need the black insulator(?) block that is connected to the pins? (See attached).

Second, I was planning to solder a socket back in the dx4e, but it appears I've burned/rubbed off all the necessary traces from the transmitter motherboard (see attached). Would you agree? Any ideas on why this happened? Was it too much rubbing with the solder wick? Was the heat too high? I set the iron to 350C.

Thanks for any advice.
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Donor Motherboard
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jhsa
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by jhsa »

In my opinion the temperature was set too low. You had to keep the iron in place too long to melt the solder, and burnt the traces by overheating them. By setting the temperature higher the solder would melt instantly, reducing the time you have the iron on the components. Also a good quality solder wick is a must. Some of the ones you buy over the internet are very bad quality and don't suck the solder.
Also I believe you should have used a solder sucker before you used the solder wick.
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Daedalus66
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My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by Daedalus66 »

Looks like that motherboard is far beyond any hope of repair.

350C might be a bit low. I'm not sure what type of solder is used on the board.

The other question, though, is whether the iron is big enough to provide the necessary heat for quick melting of the solder.

I always add a little flux on the wick and it helps a lot.
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by MikeB »

The way I would probably use for 12 pins like that is to add more solder (60/40 tin/lead) so all 12 pins were shorted together. Then with a big and hot iron, melt all 12 connections together and the boards should come apart quite easily. Afterwards, you then use the solder wick to clean up the pads.

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jhsa
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by jhsa »

That was I did last night to separate my receiver's 2 boards. Lots of solder on all pins, being careful not to hit any surrounding SMD component, and then just melt all together while making little pressure on the boards to separate them..

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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by ReSt »

JohnOCFII wrote: The solder wick didn't seem to magically soak thinks up enough to allow me to cleanly pull the boards apart. My thumbs are raw from the prying.
I also have some solder wick that does not take up the solder by itself. Therefore I'm using some solder flux (paste) put on the soldering points and then the wick takes up all the solder immediately
I was planning to solder a socket back in the dx4e, but it appears I've burned/rubbed off all the necessary traces from the transmitter motherboard (see attached). Would you agree?
Shouldn't be a problem if you glue the socket and then wire the pins with a thin wire to the corresponding rest of the corresponding trace.
Any ideas on why this happened? Was it too much rubbing with the solder wick? Was the heat too high? I set the iron to 350C.
Heat was probably to long, to low and the solder tip to thin. You need a relative thick tip to have enough heat energy going to the solder point.
And yes, it's a good idea to add a little fresh tin to the solder points to get it fluid rapidly.

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JohnOCFII
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Re: My Taranis Spektrum module

Post by JohnOCFII »

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice!

What temperature would you recommend? I wish I had known a larger surface tip would have been useful - I would have used the soldering gun I got from my father -- that has a really large tip.

Interesting idea to add more solder before removing. I would not have thought of that.

I did try the solder sucker but it was hard to get the tip close enough to do much good with all the other pins in close proximity. I'll have to get some flux. I think putting flux on the wick might have helped too.

Would you also use a higher temperature for soldering components to the new PCB?

Also - on that first question - do I use that black insulator on the new module or should it be removed?

Thanks again!

John

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