Custom Spray

Where to find parts? Refactoring your entire transmitter, new cases? Sticks etc..
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

I used Borax on a couple of the test runs and you're correct, it does help "float" the paint. Also thinning the paint accomplishes the same as well as making the paint go further. Although if the paint is thinned too much it has a tendancy to blend together and lose the definition to the color. I've found that one needs to pour the paint as close to the surface of the water as possible and then the Borax is not as important. It really is something that should be practiced on a piece of wood or other test object to get a feel for what your process should be and how things will come out. It really is a random thing that one can only somewhat dictate the direction it goes in until they get more experience.

I used 4 color and was able to do 4 test with 1 set of bottles. I did another 4 tests using another set of bottles. Then I did the Tx dip...I used about 3/4 bottle red - 1/2 bottle orange - 1/4 bottle white - few drops yellow for a total of 12 bottles purchased. Quite a bit of paint gets wipped away after the object is submerged weither it's a test or the real dip. And yea, I guess if one was to add it all up they might be shocked at the total expence as it is more than just "floating some paint on top of the water and dunking the Tx".

However, a single color look great. I think the yellow one "pops" and NSFs white one is insanely detailed...he spent time on that one. One thing you might look at is painting the Tx a solid color of your choice and "flicking" paint on it with a toothpick. If you look at my first picture - the center above the "on/off" switch you will see the yellow/white/orange "splatter". I did that by dipping a toothpick into the jar of paint and "flicking" the paint onto the Tx. It is a random thing as well without using up a lot of paint. You could do a few test on some wood or whatever to get a feel for it and see what you like and still have plenty of paint left over to do the Tx.
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein

JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

My observation about dip painting the transmitter.

I bought the small 1/4oz paint jars for $1.59 each. I filled a bucket and looked at it and thought 'what will happen if I'll spray from the can (as mentioned in the previous page) into the water'. And that 's what I did and than I dipped a 1/8 ply raw, with no primer, into it. It got coated in the color that I had, white. I was thinking about the option of making a hole in the can and letting the gas out and using the paint but I put that idea aside.

Using the three 1/4oz jars I tried a dip. I used a 3" primed baseboard. It came out not too bad but not what I wanted. I tried a second run with an 8" primed board and the results where absolute not worth mentioning. It's started to be expensive.

So back to the drawing board, read youtube. I saw a guy there, form Australia I think, who used the can spray, just as I had thought of doing. He sprayed the paint into a plastic glass and poured it out of it into the water. I went to the store and bought two more colors to the white that I already had. I sprayed the paint into the glass and poured it into the water. Tried the 8" board again (the other end of it) and this time I guess I used more paint because the results where much better. I did two runs. I didn't get the pattern I'm after, yet, but I'm learning from each run and it is much cheaper now. The can has 12oz and cost less than $4. There will be some waste do to the spraying into the glass so lets say that I'll get 10oz usable out of the can, that's $0.40 an oz compared to more than $6 with the little jars. Now I don't mind as much practicing and splurging.

BTW, I too have problem with the white color dropping to the bottom. I think the white color is made with some metal and is heavier than the other colors. I may try borax to see if it will help with the floating of the white.
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Scott Page
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by Scott Page »

The best paint - if you can get it - is Humbrel. (sp?) Enamel -- not acrylic.
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

Scott, did you get the 14ml cans? I can't picture how big, or should I say small, the Humbrol 14ml can is. I have the Testor 1/4oz bottle and it is SMALL. :(
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

Cool Justin'. We will require pictures to see your handywork when complete...or any step along the way. I think you will be pleased with the final result.
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein

JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

I'm not as happy as I should be. I had an old transmitter that I used to make a practice run. It came out better, unfortunately, than the one I'm supposed to keep. I knew that hat would happen. :) If I ever do it again I'll not use white. The white falls to the bottom and comes up uncontrolled. It made dots on the final products and also caused some water bubbles. I caused some bobbles by swirling the paint to much and most likely to strong. I should not have swirled it that much. It came out too busy. In the practice one I probably didn't swirl it that much.
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Left is the Turinigy right is a old transmitter I used for practice
Left is the Turinigy right is a old transmitter I used for practice
Left the Turinigy right practice
Left the Turinigy right practice
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Scott Page
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by Scott Page »

JustinTime wrote:Scott, did you get the 14ml cans? I can't picture how big, or should I say small, the Humbrol 14ml can is. I have the Testor 1/4oz bottle and it is SMALL. :(
Yep, sure did! about the same amount as a testor bottle.
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Scott Page
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by Scott Page »

JustinTime wrote:I'm not as happy as I should be. I had an old transmitter that I used to make a practice run. It came out better, unfortunately, than the one I'm supposed to keep. I knew that hat would happen. :) If I ever do it again I'll not use white. The white falls to the bottom and comes up uncontrolled. It made dots on the final products and also caused some water bubbles. I caused some bobbles by swirling the paint to much and most likely to strong. I should not have swirled it that much. It came out too busy. In the practice one I probably didn't swirl it that much.
The business will be much less once you get the switches and gimbals in place. Now - take time and slowly apply clear to protect and make it absolutely shine. I think that is the freakin' awesome. You have to look past the vision of your aspirations to appreciate the goodness you have. You got me motivated to do another. I have two more cases to do. One will be a sky9x and the other probably a stock board for a raffle or something.


The next one I'm going to use a spray urathane for the finish that my bro says is the shitz. He used it on his hand built carbon fiber Ducati. It's about $20 a can however. It's a two part rattle can deal that requires you to depress a plunger to break one part so it can mix and then it sprays out of a rattle can. Definitely need organic respirator however.

Nice job. Nothing but respect for that case!
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

Hey Justin' great job! I really like the color combination you used and the definition looks great. Although I like the one on the right as well. The color pattern is broader, but a thumbs up from me as well! I agree on both counts...take the time to do a little wet sand between a few coats of clear and it will look awesome and once you get it back together it will not look so busy.
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

Thanks guys! Much appreciate!.

About the 'shine'. I'll use the practice case to see if I like it 'shiny'. I have to see how it will look a little 'satin'. The primer is mat and I kind of liked it. I'll think about it after the practice one is done.
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Scott Page
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by Scott Page »

JustinTime wrote:Thanks guys! Much appreciate!.

About the 'shine'. I'll use the practice case to see if I like it 'shiny'. I have to see how it will look a little 'satin'. The primer is mat and I kind of liked it. I'll think about it after the practice one is done.
Shine or not, you definitely want plenty of protective coats over this. Then put it in warm place with moving air and let it sit for a long time. I literally put mine in the flow of a fan for almost a month where the sun warms the room very warm each day. The volatiles need to escape slowly so they don't get sealed inside resulting in a softer (and possibly UV responsive) coating. If you can put it in a plastic bag in a warm place and open it later and smell the paint -- it's not done curing. Seems to take weeks and weeks before it's really hardened well. I set it up during this time of course, and use it, but treat and store it carefully. Might be that gloss takes longer to cure ... not sure. Of course the problem with gloss is that it shows every single little defect.
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terabyte
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by terabyte »

Image
  • Aurora 9x gimbals for it ;)
  • ErSky motherboard
  • better LCD
  • haptic feedback motor
  • speaker mod
  • frsky telemetry
  • TSLRS
This is the paint I used; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C0 ... UTF8&psc=1
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8470213998_eb5aff468b_b.jpg
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

Scott Page wrote:Of course the problem with gloss is that it shows every single little defect.
My thoughts exactly, which is why I'm thinking on not having the finish glossy. :D
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

Like the silver terabyte...looks like a metal case.

On the gloss...gloss is easy, it just requires a bit more work to get the finish smooth so one can get that really bad-a$$ finish. There is a reason the guitar guys are willing to pay $5-600+ for the finish.

I was going to do the gloss before I flew my Super Cub Saturday and it's one of the reasons for the 9X...for a throttle/elevator mix as well as a flying wing I want to get next. Mine had 4 coats of clear gloss on it and I was at a point where I needed about 4-5 more coats/steel wool rubdown between to get the finish prepped for the final coat of clear gloss. On the way back from the field I just purchased the mat clear and made that the 5th coat. There are still some imperfections, however, they're not too noticable with the mat finish, the bottom is the worst of it. The lables have 2 coats of clear on top of them and it looks good. I'll start putting it back together Wendsday and should be ready for flying next weekend...I'll post final picture after it's built back up...

Nice job to everyone.
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

Looking forward for the pictures, fomontoya. I'm to lazy, or actually scared, to start rubbing the finish with sandpaper or steel wool. There are too many nooks and crannies. You can't get into the nooks and the crannies you're liable to scrap the paint off. My transmitter is so busy that you'll see the imperfection only if you'll look at it with the light reflecting.

terabyte, I like the 'hammered' finish. Looks good. Was thinking of doing the 'hammered' finish too but felt adventurous and did the dip method. Where did you get the better LCD. Can you show it on so that I can see how better it is?
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terabyte
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by terabyte »

thanks for the compliments guys :)

LCD -- http://www.ersky9x.net/index.html

Image
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8470213998_eb5aff468b_b.jpg
XDmToter
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by XDmToter »

nsf wrote:Sorry guys, for taking so long. Here they are...
If you need anything just say.
Thank you for sharing your work NSF. The new paint job was neat, but your labels really set it apart. I simply printed these on Avery labels, and then covered them with packing tape. Cut them out with a razor, and stuck them on. Very simple, yet makes a big difference. Thanks Again.
photo.JPG
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

Cool Tx XD...you're correct, the labels make a huge difference in appearance. Painting the buttons is a nice adder as well.

A "teaser shot" of mine until I can get better. Taken just before a maiden flight of my new wing.
Attachments
PICT0112.jpg
s-PICT0117.jpg
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein
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tilmanb
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by tilmanb »

I got my radio yesterday. Naturally I took it apart first.
Got all the plastic case parts cleaned and sanded up a bit. I think I will try my look at water transfer printing. You can buy the foil and activator online. I promise to document...
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Rob Thomson
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by Rob Thomson »

Best you get it done before the 20th or you will not have a radio to fly with :-)
Slope Soaring, FPV, and pretty much anything 'high tech'
...........if you think it should be in the wiki.. ask me for wiki access, then go add it!
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tilmanb
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by tilmanb »

Rob Thomson wrote:Best you get it done before the 20th or you will not have a radio to fly with :-)
That would be the plan. But I have a backup. It's not mine, but it is fully speced with FrSky and open9x that I built for a mate a while ago.
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

tilmanb, did you read my note in the wiki about not taking the plastic off the labels if you are not replacing them?
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Rob Thomson
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by Rob Thomson »

That will help protect them.

Of course... I have a whole load of stickers. Bought them at some point via r2 hobbies. They are seemingly able to get hold of some of the parts.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Slope Soaring, FPV, and pretty much anything 'high tech'
...........if you think it should be in the wiki.. ask me for wiki access, then go add it!
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tilmanb
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by tilmanb »

JustinTime wrote:tilmanb, did you read my note in the wiki about not taking the plastic off the labels if you are not replacing them?
No I did not, but I had my head screwed on when I did it. :smile:
In fact, what wiki article? Would love to read that.
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

Shots of the final. If I do another one, which I might, I would do a couple of things different. However, I'm pleased with the first attempt at swirl painting of something...
Attachments
PICT0165.JPG
PICT0154.JPG
PICT0149.JPG
PICT0127.JPG
PICT0122.JPG
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

more...I purchased the Tx and immediatly started taking it apart. Did not even put a battery in it to see if it would work. After paint it was upgraded with the backlight/smarty-parts board/Open9X and it all worked first time out. I maidened my new wing without issue as far as the Tx went and preliminary "ground tests" of the setup for the Super Cub look to be good as well.
Attachments
PICT0177.JPG
PICT0174.JPG
PICT0172.JPG
PICT0171.JPG
PICT0169.JPG
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein
JustinTime
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by JustinTime »

I had taken my transmitter apart too without ever having turned it on. I hope that by the time it's all back together it will work. lol

Nice looking job, Jim! I'm still on the fence about the decals. Didn't make up my mind what to do. Now that I see yours I may make new ones too.

BTW, where did you get the switch sleeves and what would you do different if you did a second transmitter?
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tilmanb
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by tilmanb »

You guys got some amazing swirls here. I'm really envious.
I hope my choice to go with water transfer print will turn out well too. I went for a boring carbon weave pattern because it was cheapest. I'm going to lay down a base coat of bronze color.
formontoya
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Re: Custom Spray

Post by formontoya »

Thanks.

I looked around for different colored switch covers and found a couple of manufacturers that produced/sold them in different colors and the least amount was a bag run of 800 per color for just shy of $20 per bag. When one wants several colors it looked to get expensive quick since I could not find a vendor for small quantities outside of the standard red/black/yellow. I remembered using something years ago for tool handles called "Plasti-Dip" and found a "make your own color" kit from eBay along with 1oz mixing cups and "popcicle" stir sticks at the LHS that I used on the switches...
http://www.sailrite.com/Plasti-Dip-Mult ... g-Kit-22oz
(the guy in the video is a nut) found mine on eBay for ~$15 shipped.

What I would do different:

1. During my test runs I found that yellow was a color for me that dispersed the other colors in the "float" yet I chose to use it anyway. This was a root cause as to why I rushed my dip and the paint "sucked into" the lens opening. I would avoid any colors that do this no matter how much I wanted to use it.

2. I would tape the openings and just put slits in the tape to allow some water to "move" into the Tx, just not "rush into" and suck the paint/pattern in with it.

3. In my case I replaced the labels/stickers. When I did it I "tossed" the origionals. The new labels were made at a local shop and are vinyl stickers. They show the paint irregularities underneath as well as the dimple that's in the face switch and 9X "pads". On the next one I would just remove the clear protective film only on the origional stickers. I would then apply some "blue tape" to the stickers so after I painted but before the clear I could then remove the "blue tape" and have a smooth surface to apply the new vinyl labels.

4. I would test the spray paint into a cup method as while using Testors paint I had a tendancy to use too much and the "float" came out thick. I think the spray paint would be thinner and not bubble up as easily.

5. When I was placing the LCD screen back in I had the bright idea that I would use a drop of CA glue to hold it "in place" to the gasket. When I tilted it over it "applied" the drop onto the lens. I instictively grabed the nearby towel and wiped it off. Of course what I really did was create an instant lint infested smudge across the lens. After a profound discussion with myself I remembered that acetone removed CA glue and "hit up" the wife for some nail polish remover/Q-tips/face pads to clean it up. Of course it "fogged" the lens which is noticable when the backlight is not on. CA is not getting anywhere near the next one...

6. My exit button sticks. I would do a better job checking along the way before it's all closed up.
Jim

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
- Albert Einstein

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