Haptic and Speaker mod on radios with collector piezo

Cheeto · Post by **Cheeto** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:11 am

My new Turnigy 9x buzzer board did not match any of the current buzzer/haptic boards that I could find pictures of. It looks like Turnigy has moved the piezo buzzer from the emitter leg to the collector leg. I snapped some pictures of the mod.

Parts Used:
Speaker: Target from a talking greeting card
Vibration Motor: Radio Shack 273-0107
IN4001 Diode: Radio Shack 276-1107
220Ohm Resistor: Radio Shack 271-011
4.7µF Capacitor: Radio Shack Can't Find baggy for part number
10 µF Capacitor: Found in random bag of junk

I tried to film how much it vibrates, you can kind of hear it.

http://youtu.be/GB4xeh85X80

Post by **Rob Thomson** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 6:50 am

I had exactly the same issue... took me a a little white to get my head round the circuit change!

I am shortly do to start a new mod with the same issue - so will get some good board photos and add a new diagram to the wiki!

Rob

Post by **cre8tiveleo** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 8:43 am

Is that speaker wire?

Nice pics, sounds decent... But i'd really change out that speaker wire...

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.056209,-79.476194

bill516 · Post by **bill516** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:30 pm

Looking at doing this mod so pulled the board from my Tx and its different to the one above. My board looks just like the one on the wiki page. It would appear that there are two versions of this board, BTW I only got my Tx last week so it might be luck of the draw as to which board you get. Its easy enough to spot, the board above has a wide trace along the edge of the board by the speaker connection, while the wiki board only has a thin trace.

While Im here I'll ask for some advice. Rummaging through my spares box I came across a speaker that came from an old modem,

Kingstate kss-2308

Rated Input(W) 0.1
Maximum Input(W) 0.15
Impedance(Ω) 8±15%@2KHz 1.0V
Rated Frequency (Hz) 1500±20%@1.0V
Sound Pressure Level (dB) 88±3dB(0.1w/10cm),77±3dB(1w/1m)
Frequency Range (Hz) Fo--6K
Magnet (mm) φ6.5x1.5 Rare
Operating Temperature (℃) -20~+55
Weight (Gram) 3.2
Material ABS UL-94 1/16" HB

would that be a suitable speaker to use for this mod oe I have a small ceramic speaker that came from a greetings card some time ago but it has no identification on it.

Post by **Crucial** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:10 pm

I'm no expert but I don't think that is a piezo speaker. The resistance isn't high enough. From what I understand the piezo speaker will have a much higher resistance than the 8ohms that one has. A regular speaker such as that needs an amplifier circuit to run properly IIRC.

bill516 · Post by **bill516** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:18 pm

I'm no expert either, that why I come to all you clever people. http://www.kingstate.com.tw/Products/Pr ... ItemId=329 thats a link to the makers web site so I dont know if that will give you any more info. Is there any reason not to use the speaker that is already in the Tx apart from it is not very loud, the volume doesnt bother me as I have a hearing problem so the haptic will be of more use to me, as when the wind whistles through my aids all I can hear is the wind whistling through my aids.

sporez · Post by **sporez** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:30 pm

My 9x also has this new version of board. From Cheeto's pictures I can prettymuch make out how to set up the mod but some things aren't clear such as where to scrape the tracks, and where the one speaker wire is soldered to. If someone could clear these up, or maybe draw a simple diagram that'd be great!

Edit: if anyone cares here are some hi-res images of the board (new revision):

Cheeto · Post by **Cheeto** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:42 am

I fixed up your picture to show how to connect it all.

sporez · Post by **sporez** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:45 pm

Ahhh thanks!!

Can't wait to start the mod.

wallaguest1 · Post by **wallaguest1** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:06 am

at the wiki, the "speaker mod" section has just one picture. (the haptic mod sections as two pictures )
As there are two versions of the PCB that holds the buzzer... is needed another schematic for the new pcb version or the same image is applicable for both?

bill516 · Post by **bill516** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:27 am

I far as I can tell the one pic will do both boards. If you follow the trace that comes down from the row of pins at the top, first pin left hand side one connection for your speaker goes to that the other connection for you speaker goes to capacitor and then to common ground.

flashbang · Post by **flashbang** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:49 am

220Ohm Resistor ?
Where does this go?
I only see a 1K and a 390 ohm in the picture.

bill516 · Post by **bill516** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 5:53 pm

I have no idea, I wired min up as per the photo and it works.

flashbang · Post by **flashbang** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:02 am

Did it with the 220ohm resistors as listed. Works well but the peizo is not very loud. Wondering if you really need a resistor where the picture shows the 1K.

Post by **Rob Thomson** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:31 am

I have found it really depends on the piezo you use!

Some are superb. (best to get one with a case around it). Others are simply rubbish!

Also.. try adjust the speaker pitch. Sometimes you need to find the piezos sweet spot!

bill516 · Post by **bill516** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:16 pm

I drilled a few extra holes into the speaker grill on mine, that a made a difference.

flashbang · Post by **flashbang** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:21 pm

Got the radio shack 76dB Piezo Buzzer Model: 273-059. Maybe the 220Ohm resistors I used makes it not so loud. I adjusted the pitch and seems to bet a little less loud than the OEM one. Thinking about ditching the 220ohm resistor that I put where the picture shows the 1K. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks

Post by **Crucial** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:34 pm

If I remember correctly the 1k resistor was put in to reduce the voltage to the vibe motor. It is only a 3v motor and was getting 5v without it. The 220 should go in the wire that goes to the CPU pin. It's listed as the 390ohm in the install pics.

I found Mikes original post with the circuit.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... ount=10529

gohsthb · Post by **gohsthb** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:29 pm

In the pictures on the wiki. Theonly resistors are for the vibe motor. In line with the piezo is only a capacitor (4.7uF). Where if the picture showing the 220 ohm?
-gohst

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

flashbang · Post by **flashbang** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:57 am

The Wiki page is misleading and should be corrected to avoid any confusion.
It shows only a 390 Ohm resistor and a 1K, but list ony 1 220 ohm resistor in the shopping list of parts to get.
Guess here, is that 2- 220 ohm resistors should work in place of the two shown in the pic.

1.A piezo speaker(ceramic/capacitor speaker). (this speaker needs to no more than 2.5cm to 3cm diameter.)
2. a capacitor. (4.7u) seems to do the trick.
3. a capacitor (10uf preferred - 2,2uF to 47uF could be used) - totally optional but "helps" and its very cheap! so it won't harm!
4. a 4mm or similar vibration motor to provide the haptic feedback.
5. a 220 ohm to 1K resistor (this will improve safety with, virtually, any type of battery (any voltage)!
6. a diode! 1N4001 will do the job!

I have the second newer board shown on the lower pic on the Wiki page. The older board shows a 10uF Cap that helps the voltage regulator. This should be explained if it can be used on the newer board as well with the same effect.
http://openrcforums.com/wiki/index.php/ ... c_Feedback

gohsthb · Post by **gohsthb** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:36 pm

The 390 and 1k ohm resistors are what set the output voltage from the transistor. With these 2 resistors you get ~3V out from the transistor. Most vibe motors are 3V so this works out. The 10uF capacitor helps the 7805 regulator by keeping the voltage up through the surge that gets the little vibe motor going. The capacitor can go in the same place on the newer board as it does on the older one.
-Gohst

bill516 · Post by **bill516** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:02 pm

I made a vibration motor from an HXT 900 servo, but I think I probably put it in the wrong thread I put it in the where to buy spares thread, it should really be in here..

Oshb5ems · Post by **Oshb5ems** » Wed May 30, 2012 10:18 pm

Hi All

Iv got all the bits and am looking at the ""http://openrcforums.com/wiki/index.php/ ... c_Feedback"" is there any suggestions as to which way to do the mod? That is either the first photo way or the second photo way.
I take it the adding of the cap to the gnd and +5v is just a added belt and braces upgrade?

Regs Os

JohanS · Post by **JohanS** » Thu May 31, 2012 4:25 am

The two images show two different boards. Open your TX and check which version of the board you have and do the mod that corresponds to your board layout.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Spoogy · Post by **Spoogy** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:31 am

I made frsky and this haptic/speaker modification in my radio also and now I'm wondering which options I need to select from Companion9x when downloading new firmware for these modifications to work?

FrSky is obvious and I want templates that's simple, but then I think I need haptic to be selected but how about that audio option? Needed or not needed?

Post by **Rob Thomson** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:55 am

Yes... You will want the audio, and possibly the Pxx if you want to use that protocol.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spoogy · Post by **Spoogy** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 11:06 am

What is that PXX? What does it do?

But one thing.....something went wrong when making the mods. I updated the firmware and it went well as ususally. Then I opened the calibration menu and now when I calibrate for example throttle stick (left stick [mode2]) the aileron/elevator stick moves also!??!

After the calibration I tested with that main display where is those square screens with the dots inside and when I move the throttle the ailerons moves left/right movement at the same time from that one (throttle) stick.

Now, what is wrong?? Is there a short in my soldering? Might those be these two resistors which are soldered directly to the atmega "free" pins?

I measured the resistance between those two resistors from that end which are soldered to above the capacitators (where these two SMD resistors are taken away) and they are not sorted from there as far as I can see. Only thing that it said 6KOhm and increased all the time as long as I kept my multimeter in there. It increaser to 12KOhm and continued to raising. It did that every time when I measured them.

Need help..

Post by **jhsa** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:23 pm

Ok, can you post a good close picture from your board??

Spoogy · Post by **Spoogy** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:59 am

jhsa wrote:Ok, can you post a good close picture from your board??

Yes I will do that when I'm back in business (away from home at the moment).

But of course I did not mean that the aileron 'stick' moves physically when calibrating throttle. I meant that the aileron channel has input when moving throttle. Like there is a mix of somekind, but there is not.

but I will send the photo as soon as possible.

Post by **MikeB** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 9:22 am

Check you haven't got a short between pins 60 and 61, these are the analog inputs from the throttle and aileron sticks.

Mike.

openrcforums