hk backlight mod

[kaos]

Oh really? I'm 2-3 hours from you (before Rotfester screwed up their ferry across the puddle, 1 hr from you), and Erazz is in Noy Joyzee, about 3 hours the other way from me... Maybe at some point we should do a little ER9X gathering ("Gathering of the Nerds... there can be only 3"...). Never underestimate the inanity of nerds in modest groups, or something like that...
-Gyro Screwsloose

In 17th century, France had its famous 3 Muskerteer. In 21st century, the US shall have its infamous 3 Masternerds.

Do I need to do both to use the trainer function with the HK BL, or one or the other would be enough?
Do the led board fix for sure, do the FET mod for er9x control, do the 1 K ppm resistor mod if your staying with the stick modules.
There's one more mod if you plan to use any other tx as a trainer slave that has to be done but it's much more involved. The 9x wants to see a 5volt pulse train to drive the trainer jack. Most all other TX'x, jr, Futaba, ect. Put out 1.5-3v pulses and can't drive the 9x. There is a 1 transistor level converter mod you can build and install in your 9x that fixes it si any tx will work.
It does require you to cut fine circuit traces on your 9x main board and solder this onto the cut traces. It's worthwhile, but you have to be good at soldering.
SM

IF I do the led and FET mod and do the 1K mod on the Tx, can I still swap out the RF module with a DSM or other module and still have the trainer/simulator function in the future. or I'd be better off do the 1K mod on the stock RF module for later use of other module and keep the trainer/sim function with other module? I saw a 1K mod inside the RF module instead in the Tx. like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28-47SuD ... re=related

My intent is to mod the Tx, so I can use with any module with a swap of the module and keep trainer/sim function with whatever module to be used. this guy seems came out with a good swappable module/antenna mod:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6naXRmM ... re=related

[ShowMaster]

My thoughts..
The 1K resistor added into the module does make sense. A few things I've found out thanks to the posts from others over the last few months.
The resistor is needed in the ppm line to prevent too much loading from the original stock module when another stock 9x is used as a trainer. It was found out that both modules were getting the ppm data and the 9x can't drive two loads like that without loading down the required level. Removing the trainer module removed the extra load but on the Turnigy the module hangs from the antenna coax, not the best looking. The resistor in the ppm line raised the circuit impedance(AC signal) so the loading was reduced and the module would still work while plugged in, good find.
So here's the rub, this is only needed if two 9x model TX's are used together with the stock modules. If like me and many others have done, migrate to Frsky only, ppm line loading is a non issue due to the different way Frsky designed their module input circuit and loading.
I believe that the Spektrum module does not load the ppm line either but need some one to comment on that.
Adding the resistor in the TX is much easier and the parts and soldering are not as difficult to add, good thing if you're not good with micro soldering and finding SMD parts.
About moving the antenna,
If one plans to interchange modules then the best option is to buy a FlySky TX because it already uses a module with the antenna mounted on the module and saves a lot of time and trouble to convert, the best option if you haven't purchase a 9x yet.
If one already owns a Turnigy 9x then there are several options. One is to move the stock antenna to the module as some have done. Another is purchase the required after market antenna, remove the stock one, and mount the new antenna to the module as the video shows. All of these options assume that one can do the soldering without doing any damage. There is a third option, just purchase a plugin FlySky module for $28+ship and plug it in! R2Hobbies I understand stocks them. It may cost a little more but it's plug and fly and gives total module flexibility without fear of damaging anything by doing major TX modifications. It looks easy watching a video but RF and antenna modifications are not like wiring up a led circuit, a led usually doesn't crash a $200+ plane.
So... The resistor mod may only be needed if you stay with stock 9x modules so adding it in the module would leave the ppm line stock in the TX, but it's a non issue with other brand modules.
Once I went to Frsky and HK stocked the RX's I never went back to the non failsafe, non telemetry, system that came with my 9x. After doing all the great er9x telemetry mods and alarm mods, I will never go back because I'm spoiled by all the new realtime monitoring feature and alarms.
The only added feature I do like is the dsm2 capability for bind and fly. I own a dx7 and may in the future just rob the RF deck for my 9x. Spectrum wants too much with shipping to update it to the x technology and it cost me several planes with link loss so it just sits on the shelf since er9x and Frsky. Since the Dx7 is 6 year old technology and programming I'd buy a newer version anyway just to get the 2011-2012 total technology upgrades as well as the X hoping update.
So there are no wrong ways to go, just easier less soldering ways, so pick a path and go for it.
SM

SM

[kaos]

Thx, SW:

that cleared a lot of my questions. one more question. Does the Frysky module (capable of telemetry) compatible with the stock Turnigy Rx? I already have 11 Turnigy Rxs (some 8ch , some 6 ch) instlled on different models and 8 (4 6ch, 4 8ch) more spares for models to be made. If the Rx still can be used without telemetry or fail save. I will probably go that route and use telemetry only with models has the Frysky Rx.

[cre8tiveleo]

Not compatible.

[kaos]

Not compatible.

Gee, just can't get anyting good from the masternerds.

OK, I'll just make the FET mod and 1K mod in the Tx, and fly without telemetry and crashing all my turnigy Rx/model, then switch to Flysky module.

Here is a question for someone/something to answer or think about.
Last time I looked at a circuit board or oscilloscope is 37 yrs ago. NOwadyas, those circuit boards look like spider web to me. All I can still remember about electronic component is a transistor has 3 legs, a capacitor has 2 legs, a resistor always stand on two boats and an IC chip is like an octopus.
I have see many mods about RF module to fly with different rx. Is it possible to mod the stock RX and attach to a say DSM2/x or walkera Rx and control it.
What I am thinking is If that is doable, then I can go to some flying field and clip the Rx on the $8000.00 turbine jet's antenna and fly it home with my super ER9X and nobody would know it. Hope some web crawler here can offer some insight.

[cre8tiveleo]

You can do that.

You could use your stock tx module an frsky At the same time though. Sending a second ppm signal through the training port , you could control frsky and t9 rx's.

Octopus... Lol... But smd resistors have no legs... They're like... Licorice allsorts, the black with white centres... You squish them and they look like smd resistors, but tastier


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.003067,-79.457256

[kaos]

You can do that.
You could use your stock tx module an frsky At the same time though. Sending a second ppm signal through the training port , you could control frsky and t9 rx's.
l=44.003067,-79.457256

yep, that is what I am planning on with my 2nd 9X. with booster antenna to reach 4KM, add FPV goggle and joy stick and fly like a real pilot.

But, that still won't let me by clipping a Rx controlled by my super er9x on someone's 8000 turbine jet's DSMX antenna and fly it home with me.

Octopus... Lol... But smd resistors have no legs... They're like... Licorice allsorts, the black with white centres... You squish them and they look like smd resistors, but tastier

hmm I have some SMD resistor for my night light, they look like sesame to me. I should rephrase it, the regular style resistor is the guy with 2 mistresses, and those msitresses never see each other.

[pmackenzie]

You won't be able to control that AR8000 in another person's turbine unless you open it up, put a bind plug in and bind it to your DSMx module.
Might as well just throw it in the back of the pickup rather than try to fly it away.

The whole point of 2.4 is that yours works with yours and mine works with mine.

[ShowMaster]

While on the backlight subject.
Some actual measured  Smartieparts current draw values.
Sp board no backlight on, idle current
14Ma@5volts from the tx regulated 5 volts.

With the EL backlight circuit turned on with or without EL panel connected, 31Ma.
Total on current 45Ma.

If installed,
HK Led backlight on, 14Ma with tx battery of 9.8 volts.
Total posable  current draw  draw 64Ma and this combination with a tx battery of 9.8 volts.
This is my setup and I was curious. 
Still not 92Ma as reported for the mysterious HK BL only reading we'er all wondering about why?
SM

[kaos]

You won't be able to control that AR8000 in another person's turbine unless you open it up, put a bind plug in and bind it to your DSMx module.
Might as well just throw it in the back of the pickup rather than try to fly it away.

The whole point of 2.4 is that yours works with yours and mine works with mine.

Ah, forgot about that mystery coding thing. But you know , even the top secret US drone were landed in Iran by the groups.
Pickup is a better idea, but that is exactly my problem, I don't have a pick up. I even have problem taking my 1.2m P51 to the field. let alone a Tubine Jet.

Seriously, I have not seen a walker module mod. Is there a walkera mod you can fly walkera Heli with 9X? I have a 4G3 with a 2602 Tx. A CB180Q with 2601 Tx. Just tired of having so many Tx around. I have seen DSM mod but did not find any walkera mod.
if any one is interested I would offer my 2601 module to do it. then make me one from my 2602 module in return.

[ccpetersen]

Having switched to the HK backlight (much improved) - has anyone looked at disabling the EL driver on the SP board and saving the 20ma?

[GrootWitbaas]

1st, if I have the choice between backlights I'll use the EL ...
2nd. if you need t save 20ma then you are using the wrong battery ...but yes it is possible to disable this. I have to look again the the drawings and things on the RCG topic about the backlight to see how to. It should be as simple as cutting a track or two. Alternative ly you could unsolder the EL driver chip

Just my 2cents on the EL

[cre8tiveleo]

I just removed the SP board and soldered ribbon cable in and use a usb programmer...
I also put a 1k resistor on the hk bl to dim it a bit, it was too bright.

Use a transistor with the hk backlight, maybe just remove the one leg that the sp board uses for the bl on/off.

[GyroGearloose]

Having switched to the HK backlight (much improved) - has anyone looked at disabling the EL driver on the SP board and saving the 20ma?

It's very easy to disable the EL light...
1) open the back of your radio
2) carefully remove the SP board, and place on a stable surface
3) Find the third pin from the left on the board.
4) Carefully place your finger just to left of that pin, to apply tension to the board.
5) Grasp your 3lb engineer hammer, and administer EXACTLY 12 impacts to the center of the board. Do not hit your finger.
6) discard the shards
7) reassemble your radio, and verify that the EL no longer comes on. Ever.

Glad I could be helpful!

Alternately, anyone know whether simply SETTING the EL off in the firmware leaves that driver circuit unpowered? It seems if the drivers on, the light is on when connected... so if the lights not on, the driver shouldn't be gobbling much power doing nothing at all.

-Gyro

[kaos]

I also put a 1k resistor on the hk bl to dim it a bit, it was too bright.

Use a transistor with the hk backlight, maybe just remove the one leg that the sp board uses for the bl on/off.

so the er9x cannot adjust the brightness of HK BL even with the FET mod? bomber!

While on the backlight subject.
Some actual measured Smartieparts current draw values.
Sp board no backlight on, idle current
14Ma@5volts from the tx regulated 5 volts.

With the EL backlight circuit turned on with or without EL panel connected, 31Ma.
Total on current 45Ma.

If installed,
HK Led backlight on, 14Ma with tx battery of 9.8 volts.
Total posable current draw draw 64Ma and this combination with a tx battery of 9.8 volts.
This is my setup and I was curious.
Still not 92Ma as reported for the mysterious HK BL only reading we'er all wondering about why?
SM

SM: I bet your marble counter top is only 1/2" thick or less.

I have a 1 1/4" marble counter top and my HK BL is deemed to half. This GoofyLooseGear masternerd has a 2" counter top and draw 92 ma of current and his BL is half as bright as mine (albeit he blamed I reversed my marble polarity).

So, if your marble counter top is indeed 1/2". the only logic conclusion is : if you use HK BL with SP , you have to have a marble counter top less than 1/2" thick and the marble polarity properly installed.
With all these scientic evidence that is the only conclusion I can draw.

[ShowMaster]

Having switched to the HK backlight (much improved) - has anyone looked at disabling the EL driver on the SP board and saving the 20ma?

It is should be as easy as cutting a trace going to the EL driver IC or the single trace coming from the VDD pad that goes to the driver IC. Steven of SP would be the best at making a recommendation but it would void any warranty support I would imagine. He's been great on that by the way!

Easy repair if you want to restore it later. I have not done this but I will just to get the facts right so there's no wrong info on doing it. I own 3 SP boards and use 1 as a test unit.
I also will be using the solder in board, again to get the facts on what to do to make it work the first time. For me it's more about learning since I've become the local expert in my club and we all know what that means. Right Rob, Mike, and of course Eraz + others.
The SP actually draws 31Ma when the EL circuit is on.
The SP board is still the best option if soldering is a challenge for anyone. Pay now, or pay later when you have to repair the damage done by using the solder in option. I admit that the V1 boards as we all call them in the newer 9X's people are getting (new old) has caused some issues even for SP
.
As for the HK BL brightness, I would think that a small POT in series with the LED of 1-2K would allow one to adjust the brightness as required from full to something less. If the pot was mounted so one could get to it from the closed TX case from adjustment one could customize it for the time of day?
better yet, as with my other display devices I use, have the brightness automatic with a sensor and it will always be correct.
Wow! Great idea, to the "lab" everyone.
SM

[jhsa]

looooooooooooooooooooooool

[ShowMaster]

Having switched to the HK backlight (much improved) - has anyone looked at disabling the EL driver on the SP board and saving the 20ma?

It's very easy to disable the EL light...
1) open the back of your radio
2) carefully remove the SP board, and place on a stable surface
3) Find the third pin from the left on the board.
4) Carefully place your finger just to left of that pin, to apply tension to the board.
5) Grasp your 3lb engineer hammer, and administer EXACTLY 12 impacts to the center of the board. Do not hit your finger.
6) discard the shards
7) reassemble your radio, and verify that the EL no longer comes on. Ever.

Glad I could be helpful!


Yes that will work but there goes the magic auto BL feature built into er9x.
Bigger TX battery and recharge evey month or sooner is a real easy fix. It was just a few years ago we had to recharge before every flying day, now look at us
having to recharge every few weeks or less. Oh the hardships we face in these times.
SM


Alternately, anyone know whether simply SETTING the EL off in the firmware leaves that driver circuit unpowered? It seems if the drivers on, the light is on when connected... so if the lights not on, the driver shouldn't be gobbling much power doing nothing at all.

-Gyro

[GyroGearloose]

better yet, as with my other display devices I use, have the brightness automatic with a sensor and it will always be correct.
Wow! Great idea, to the "lab" everyone.
SM

Boy are people overthinking a crummy backlight here... sheesh!

But yes, I'd imagine a simple CdS cell would do about what you describe... just have to find one with an appropriate resistive range for your liking.

Now, I have color changing LEDs on my lab bench here... who wants to work on wiring them up to indicate the time of day encoded into blink rate and color shift? I think this is an important feature for a radio to have...

-Gyro

[GyroGearloose]

Yes that will work but there goes the magic auto BL feature built into er9x.
Bigger TX battery and recharge evey month or sooner is a real easy fix. It was just a few years ago we had to recharge before every flying day, now look at us
having to recharge every few weeks or less. Oh the hardships we face in these times.
SM

There goes the backlight? I think if you take a sledge to your radio, more than the backlight is going to be off...

As for battery, that WAS a point I made at the onset of all of this, when I mentioned my BL doubles the power drain and I still don't care (until it burns out my radio). Only a couple MONTHS ago, I was using NiMH and charging EVERY day before flying, still coming home with low-battery warnings. Supposedly, I had twice the mah capacity as I do now, but something was just not right with NiMH chemistry and these radios. Now my 1500mah LiFE lasts for 13-15 hours of continuous usage, and a few mah here and there isn't going to even be noticed. Hey, the battery is going dead? I have to charge sometime THIS WEEK... pretty cool.

Now, if you want HARDSHIPS, talk to the older folks here about electric powered flight in the age before LiPO... NiCD or even Pb batteries in a plane lasted almost long enough to taxi to the runway...

-Gyro
"When the plane flies right over your head, that's 'jet wash'. When it flies slightly lower, that's 'jet splatter'..."

[cre8tiveleo]

Mood backlighting!!!

Adhere some thermal reactive switch pads to both sides of the transmitter, then varient colour leds, even do up a little subrutine for boot up thats reads your mood and automatically adusts the servo trims for your mood of flying, that would be whack!

[GyroGearloose]

Mood backlighting!!!
Adhere some thermal reactive switch pads to both sides of the transmitter, then varient colour leds, even do up a little subrutine for boot up thats reads your mood and automatically adusts the servo trims for your mood of flying, that would be whack!

"Oh F*CK!!! His transmitter's flashing red and orange, sounding a siren, and shooting laser beams... DUCK!!!"

[cre8tiveleo]

Ooo.. add voice to the mood sensors, and you'll have a nagging tx in your hands too... buuuahahahhaaaa

[GyroGearloose]

Ooo.. add voice to the mood sensors, and you'll have a nagging tx in your hands too... buuuahahahhaaaa

Would that be the "Companion 9X" edition:
"Ooooh Baby! Squeeze my sticks a bit harder... harder! Harder! More trim! That's it.... .... .... Thank you. ESC start enabled."

or how bout a screaming side-seat driver radio...

"Whoa... who---ah... whoa! WHOA! #$)(&*#$ Close one, genius... maybe I should fly without you for a while, eh? WHOA SH*... Here we go again...."

Yeah, when you folks get the PCM sound effects working, we're going to have WAY too much fun...

-G

[cre8tiveleo]

BBBUUUUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA


Need a nice amp too, so the whole field can hear.. get jealous...

[kaos]

Just make sure you program it when that led light turns red, the Tx will shut down and "beep--PUT--beep--ME--beep--DOWN--Beep--YOU--beep--PSYCHO--BEEEEEP!"
that is available with er9x v.2012

[cre8tiveleo]

ooooo... and a little shock thingy, so if you crash, it gives you a shock.

[GyroGearloose]

ooooo... and a little shock thingy, so if you crash, it gives you a shock.

See, all of you were wondering what to do with that 80V AC output from the SP board when you're not using an EL... just run it through a little step-up transformer, and set your "Fry my ass on beep" (aka "flash on beep") option in the firmware.

See, solved...

-G

[jhsa]

lolololol

[ShowMaster]

Guys, I enjoy humor but I think this thread is taking a direction away from its purpose, to help us and others improve or solveing BL issues?
The BL current consumption is a small concern issue for most of us but thanks to this thread we have some hard numbers to work with now.
SM