hk backlight mod

[jhsa]

It definately sound like a short somewhere. I'm sure you will find the problem..

[ShowMaster]

Hope this helps!
No guesswork, just the facts.

Not really helpful, no. I saw your posting before, and it's great to have "someones" data compared to the HK notoriously bad information. But, sadly, they're right in *MY* case...

Just to put this to rest, once and for all, I pulled out the ammeter and rigged up tap wires -- I get 121mah @ 9.80V for just the radio. Typical...
Switch on my LED backlight, and it spikes to 213mah, which suggests that *MY* LED panel is indeed drawing 92mah... sucks for me.

As I understand Ohms law, you're correct this is not possible with a resistor in the circuit, and yet it is... My LED doesn't burn out, it's just not very bright. So, how bout if they used a WRONG resistor? Too low would make it brighter, and two high would draw less current... So how bout if they soldered like incontinent monkeys, and there's a "partial" short somehow? I think if shorted across the led, you could divert enough power to dim the LED and raise the amperage... sound like a working theory? Either way, I just keep the stupid LED turned off when not in use, and don't worry so much about it... LOL... You all worry more about this than I do -- obviously, I use the EL and programmer radio more than this one.

-Gyro

Ok you'll need to answer a few questions to nail it down but first,
You should cut off the shrink tubing and look at the resistor as well as measure it. It should read 470 ohms with your meter. Next check the soldering of the resistor to make sure their's no solder bridges etc.
If the resistor is 470 ohms and one of the two LEDs is shorted that would be 9.8v-1.5v (1 led drop)= 8.3v/470ohms= 17Ma max current draw. No diodes shorted = 9.8-3v = 6.8v/470 ohms= 13.8Ma. A lot less than 92Ma? So is the resistor 470 ohms is the first thing to measure. Also if the LEDs were actually drawing 92Ma they would be real bright, and then real burned out/dead LEDs quickly.
I assume you've just connected the backlight by plugging it is series with the CPU board connector cable and no other mods or connections or added switches or parts, just stock?
The math just doesn't add up so it's time to look under the shrink tubing.
You could also disconnect the BL and power it without being connected to the TX and measure the current that way. The circuit should be two series LEDs and a 470 ohm current limiting resistor. More info please?
SM
  

[GyroGearloose]

I assume you've just connected the backlight by plugging it is series with the CPU board connector cable and no other mods or connections or added switches or parts, just stock?

Almost... I originally plugged it in exactly as told to, just two harnesses interrupting the orginal plugs. When I found how fast my battery died, and "just didn't need it" most of the time anyway, I snipped one of the wires to the panel itself, and put in a toggle switch to disconnect it. So, the current circuit, as I understand it, is just a bridge between + and - on the harness, containing my toggle, a resistor, and two LEDs all in series.

Random question: what happens when an LED *does* burn out? It is black-dark, or can it be dim and still passing current through the junction? Does it "weld" and act like a short, or blow open like a fuse?

I think (?) someone mentioned there's a small PCB (with traces needing to be cut to still use the trainer port)? I'm guessing that's going to be where any short occured.. maybe the resistor leg brushes something else before going where it belongs?

What is particularly curious/strange to me is not this LED panel, but it's interplay with the Smartie Board when they aren't connected in any obvious way. The Smartie has almost no drain that I could measure, the LED of course is bad, but combined they are EXTRA terrible. There's a weird mystery for you. I don't think others have reported that effect either (I know some people are using the smartie to switch a transistor and operate the LED).

As I mentioned, as my secondary radio, and not misbehaving when my LED switch is off, it's not worth a ton of effort to me to go and fix it... I just wanted to note that their are some boards out there that have the obscenely high draw. Maybe a whole run of them ARE mis-soldered or something?

> You could also disconnect the BL and power it without being connected to the TX and measure the current that way. The circuit should be two series LEDs and a 470 ohm current limiting resistor. More info please?

Next time I have the radio open, I'll definitely measure it directly for you -- and add a transistor in place of my switch.

-K

[GrootWitbaas]

Are you sure you got the back light with the light only function, not the one with the internal auto heater ? Heaters tend to use lots of power

[Flaps 30]

Random question: what happens when an LED *does* burn out? It is black-dark, or can it be dim and still passing current through the junction? Does it "weld" and act like a short, or blow open like a fuse??

It can do all of those things from personal experience.

If an LED is used way above the specified current ratings. They can still work and emit light, but most times the light output reduces over a fairly short period of time and/or change colour. So you may not think anything is wrong, even if the current is ten times (or more) above what they are specified for.

[jhsa]

soo, maybe someone by mistake could have put a much lower value resistor.. around 100 Ohms?? I think that would give about 90mA with 2 LEDs in series..

[ShowMaster]

Ok here's why this is way more important than weather it's bright or not, draws 90Ma or 15Ma...
If there is no current limiting resistor, and there is a shorted Led or LEDs that allow 90Ma to be drawn, will it become a total short at some time in operation? A direct short could take down the TX or burn up the wiring or circuit clad that current passes through at the speed of light. Much too fast to reverse the action by "turning the switch off" while flying! Electronics and the math doesn't have "wiggle room" and ignoring the symptoms only prolongs the "smoke",
I'm not concerned that the panel draws 90Ma but more in the fact that it shouldn't!
You may have installed a ticking time bomb that is waiting for the right time to go off. Personally I would want to know exactly what's causing the higher than normal current draw so that a $5 led BL doesn't kill a TX and more expensive plane when it goes off.
I'm on your side here , honest.
SM

[GyroGearloose]

Look, darnit, only I am allowed to be right all the time, and you're being annoying making all these good points...

I shall indeed keep the led switched off until I get a chance to figure this out or excise said bomb...

Thanks for the good thoughts...

Gyro

[ShowMaster]

Look, darnit, only I am allowed to be right all the time, and you're being annoying making all these good points...

I shall indeed keep the led switched off until I get a chance to figure this out or excise said bomb...

Thanks for the good thoughts...

Gyro

You're a good sport. I really do care. I agree that HK's 90 Ma posted spec may be true at sometime and maybe you actually got one of those and they weren't wrong? Knowing the truth will help us all understand so being you're  experiencing higher current draw, you have to solve the mystery for us, please.
Be careful when you do check it out. I'd hate to have something bad happen finding out.
SM

[kaos]

OK, with all that wonderful math and physics and argument. Let me try to make this a little muddier here.
I am one of those weirdos who put the smartie board in the tx but did not bother to replace the HK led light already installed with the EL light (because I like the bright blue light that was there before the flash). and I happen to have 2 Tx and both have HK blue led light already installed and both HAD the same bright blue light I liked. And, it happened that I can only afford to get one smartie board at this time. Can anybody explain this picture to me:

both Tx has the Hk blue led light. The one has 'erazor' also has the smartieboard and flashed with er9x. the other is stock firmware and tx.
Both leds were installed per HK instruction.
Both Tx using 1500 mah LiFe 3S batt
er9x tx shows 9.9 volt which has been calibrated with a cheap 4.00 voltmeter. stock Tx shows 9.5 volt. I have checked my stock Tx, the voltage reading by the Tx is 0.3 - 0.4 volt less than my voltmeter. so it should be actually 9.8 - 9.90 volt by voltmeter.
I would say the stock Tx with HK led is brighter and the Tx with smartie board is a little fuzzier and much dimmer. I noticed this dimming and fuzziness the minute after I installed the smartie and flashed with er9x.
There is no other mod what so ever in either Tx.

[njozsef]

possible, reverse the LED board installed?
One side of the brightly lit.

Hm.
Or EL driver this problem source.
Smartieparts designed EL drivers, not LED.
I not found smartieparts schematic,
Sorry, just thinking.

[kaos]

possible, reverse the LED board installed?
One side of the brightly lit.

during the installation of the smartie board, the main circuit board was never lifted. The HK led was installed prior Smartie arrival. Both Tx had the same brightness prior to smartie installation.

[jhsa]

you could just lift the smartieparts board and check if the light goes back to normal..

[pmackenzie]

Have you tried adjusting the contrast?

[kaos]

possible, reverse the LED board installed?
One side of the brightly lit.

Hm.
Or EL driver this problem source.
Smartieparts designed EL drivers, not LED.
I not found smartieparts schematic,
Sorry, just thinking.

The HK LED was not attached to smartied board EL port. It is installed per HK installation instruction.

you could just lift the smartieparts board and check if the light goes back to normal..

I think I will do just that next time I play with that board. It is still a chord to seat that smartie board with 7/8 pins just right. and I am using that Tx to fly now.
I will again recheck the led installation as well. But that should not be a problem, since it was done before the smartie board installation and was bright, unless my brain has memory loss nowadays.

Have you tried adjusting the contrast?

yes, I did. what you see in the pic is the 'best' contrast or brightness I can get with contrast adjustment.

As you can see, it is usable. I just could not figure why this could happen. As long as it is not another 'ticking bomb'.

[ShowMaster]

possible, reverse the LED board installed?
One side of the brightly lit.

Hm.
Or EL driver this problem source.
Smartieparts designed EL drivers, not LED.
I not found smartieparts schematic,
Sorry, just thinking.

The HK LED was not attached to smartied board EL port. It is installed per HK installation instruction.

you could just lift the smartieparts board and check if the light goes back to normal..

I think I will do just that next time I play with that board. It is still a chord to seat that smartie board with 7/8 pins just right. and I am using that Tx to fly now.
I will again recheck the led installation as well. But that should not be a problem, since it was done before the smartie board installation and was bright, unless my brain has memory loss nowadays.

Have you tried adjusting the contrast?

yes, I did. what you see in the pic is the 'best' contrast or brightness I can get with contrast adjustment.

As you can see, it is usable. I just could not figure why this could happen. As long as it is not another 'ticking bomb'.

The SP board when driving the supplied EL panel draws about 20MA when lit I'm told. I'll confirm this because I like the facts. The 20 Ma is drawn to produce the 90+v AC needed to drive the EL panel, yes 90V AC. This is drawn whether the EL panel is installed or not I'm told. That and a "normal" HK BL will draw a total of 20+14=35Ma @9.6v when both are in circuit and on.
The SP board if not connected to the HK BL and a control FET controlled by the VDD pad, should in no way affect or interact with each other to cause excessive current draw?
Respectively, your earlier statement that both panels were equal until the SP board was installed points to some unpopular conclusions to consider aside from the HK board failing in some way?
When installing the SP board some BL wire may be pinched and making contact where they shouldn't? The Red most likely since black is ground but?
Installing the board mat have disturbed the connector(s)  on the HK BL assembly or CPU board connectors it plugs into?
I'm a little confused now about weather this radio has the SP board installed so I'll reread the posts.  What I have read about the 92 Ma current draw suggests that the current is being measured by bridging the your led switch when
It's off, or putting your meter in a lead of the HK BL in question to isolate the actual HK draw and nothing else, correct?
Last and the most unpopular conclusion is that all work was done by the same person and everything worked OK before said person did this work? Finding time to fully explore and document your resistance and voltage/current readings as well as a good visual inspection may solve everything!
I went flying a few days ago and found that if I tapped my case some servos would go to one end, tap again they went back to neutral, wow! It was during a  preflight check so I lucked out. What I found is that several days before I did some internal work on my 9x and had not fully seated the large white connector at the top of the board. I flew several times it seems with this time bomb situation! Found it at the field, fixed it, flew!
Since I never make mistakes I'm blaming my cat.
Keep your findings coming, it's a good brain teaser.
Finally, I'm sure we all know that there is indeed a wiring error on the HK resistor board that when installed will disable the trainer and Sim PPM out when a trainer cable is plugged into the jack? The shrink should be removed and the circuit clad should be modified in all  HK BL boards if you ever want to use these functions. So you can do that when you open your TX to troubleshoot this mysterious BL condition.
SM 

[GyroGearloose]

OK, with all that wonderful math and physics and argument. Let me try to make this a little muddier here.

Well, you certainly did muddy things there, but it's intriguing.. I think it must be the marble counter under teh radio, and your marble is installed reverse-polarity, since you got the reverse brightness from what I did... Your LED with smarties is still brighter than my LED without, but it's interesting...

I am one of those weirdos who put the smartie board in the tx but did not bother to replace the HK led light already installed with the EL light

Not so weird... it's a pain in teh butt to remove the LED's alternate pad in order to put in the EL panel, so I can see not bothering if not for having 2nd radio to start new...

-Gyro

[kaos]

The SP board when driving the supplied EL panel draws about 20MA when lit I'm told. I'll confirm this because I like the facts. The 20 Ma is drawn to produce the 90+v AC needed to drive the EL panel, yes 90V AC. This is drawn whether the EL panel is installed or not I'm told. That and a "normal" HK BL will draw a total of 20+14=35Ma @9.6v when both are in circuit and on.
The SP board if not connected to the HK BL and a control FET controlled by the VDD pad, should in no way affect or interact with each other to cause excessive current draw?
Respectively, your earlier statement that both panels were equal until the SP board was installed points to some unpopular conclusions to consider aside from the HK board failing in some way?
When installing the SP board some BL wire may be pinched and making contact where they shouldn't? The Red most likely since black is ground but?
Installing the board mat have disturbed the connector(s)  on the HK BL assembly or CPU board connectors it plugs into?
I'm a little confused now about weather this radio has the SP board installed so I'll reread the posts.  What I have read about the 92 Ma current draw suggests that the current is being measured by bridging the your led switch when
It's off, or putting your meter in a lead of the HK BL in question to isolate the actual HK draw and nothing else, correct?
Last and the most unpopular conclusion is that all work was done by the same person and everything worked OK before said person did this work? Finding time to fully explore and document your resistance and voltage/current readings as well as a good visual inspection may solve everything!
I went flying a few days ago and found that if I tapped my case some servos would go to one end, tap again they went back to neutral, wow! It was during a  preflight check so I lucked out. What I found is that several days before I did some internal work on my 9x and had not fully seated the large white connector at the top of the board. I flew several times it seems with this time bomb situation! Found it at the field, fixed it, flew!
Since I never make mistakes I'm blaming my cat.
Keep your findings coming, it's a good brain teaser.
Finally, I'm sure we all know that there is indeed a wiring error on the HK resistor board that when installed will disable the trainer and Sim PPM out when a trainer cable is plugged into the jack? The shrink should be removed and the circuit clad should be modified in all  HK BL boards if you ever want to use these functions. So you can do that when you open your TX to troubleshoot this mysterious BL condition.
SM 

yes, the dimmer er9x has the SP board in it. and yes, both tx prior to SP installation and flashing was about the same brightness as far as my brain can remember.

Now since you mention the 1K mod. that is actually one thing I don't quite know in detail. There is a mod to use trainer function on the back of the RF module board with a 1K resistor. and then there is another mod I found with the HK BL connector also using a 1K resistor on the HK BL connector resistor board (the shrik wrapped resistor board) together with a B170 transistor and a 470 ohm ressitor to one of the leads. Do I need to do both to use the trainer function with the HK BL, or one or the other would be enough?

[kaos]

Well, you certainly did muddy things there, but it's intriguing.. I think it must be the marble counter under teh radio, and your marble is installed reverse-polarity, since you got the reverse brightness from what I did... Your LED with smarties is still brighter than my LED without, but it's interesting...
-Gyro

That marble counter is gone tomorrow. Nobody mess with my Tx.

The pic is just a good representation of the contrast between these 2 Tx. Depending on your camera exposure setting. I can make both Tx as bright as sun light. Like this:

it took me 5 shots with different exposure setting to get what I think is a true representation of the actual brightness.

[GyroGearloose]

Yeah yeah... quit showing off your fancy camera... I shot mine on my cellphone, and it shows the difference if not the absolute brightness. I can see the counter where the camera couldn't too...

Let us know if flipping your countertop over fixes the problem. I built mine 2" thick to withstand five coeds dancing on it (you know, just in case that happens) so I won't be able to lift mine to flip it...

Gyro

[kaos]

Yeah yeah... quit showing off your fancy camera...

A 5 yr old sony cybershot point and shoot. I wouldn't call it fancy. Fancy technique, Yes.

. I built mine 2" thick to withstand five coeds dancing on it (you know, just in case that happens) so I won't be able to lift mine to flip it...

hmm, I got it. mine is only 1 1/4 " thick. Instead of getting rid of it, just add another 3/4 inch and get some coeds doing a round of voodoo dancing should do it.

[GyroGearloose]

ABBC3_OFFTOPIC

. I built mine 2" thick to withstand five coeds dancing on it (you know, just in case that happens) so I won't be able to lift mine to flip it...

hmm, I got it. mine is only 1 1/4 " thick. Instead of getting rid of it, just add another 3/4 inch and get some coeds doing a round of voodoo dancing should do it.

Funny you should mention that... its not voodoo, but a bunch of naked wiccans dancing around my kitchen isn't so far fetched...

As for the counter, when I built it, I wanted it to support 500lbs out on an 18" overhang (let's say 4 large stockpots supported only by the granite), so it really is grossly overbuilt strong...2" of granite and reenforcement mesh... I don't hesitate to jump up on it, and pity whoever next tries to remove it... my planes are easily broken, my house construction not so much.

G

[ShowMaster]

Now since you mention the 1K mod. that is actually one thing I don't quite know in detail. There is a mod to use trainer function on the back of the RF module board with a 1K resistor.
( this mod only needs to be done if your going to stay with the original Turnigy or FlySky modules and keep them plugged in when used as a trainer slave TX with another 9x as the master. The ppm circuit can't drive the module and another TX at the same time due to loading. The 1K resistor reduces the loading.)    

Then there is another mod I found with the HK BL connector also using a 1K resistor on the HK BL connector resistor board (the shrik wrapped resistor board) together with a B170 transistor and a 470 ohm ressitor to one of the leads. 
( this mod is for controlling the HK led BL on and off from er9x firmware. If you stay with the stock firmware it won't work. No IK resistor is needed, just a FET.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... count=7855

The HK BL board due to a mistake ties pins 3 and 5 together and the resistor. Tying these two pins together keeps  voltage going to the transistor that controls the 
PPM out when the trainer plug is used. Because of the error the transistor never is able to do its job. The fix is to cut the circuit clad going to pin 5 and the resistor so only pin 3 now goes to the resistor.  Not my find, but a good one!
 Makes sense if you check it out on the 9x schematics of that connector used on the 9x board it plugs into.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1266162
In the HK board picture you can see the resistor going to pin 5(pin 1 is Bkack wire). The resistor should go to pin 3 not 5 and on newer boards that are wrong pin 3 and 5 connect to the resistor, wrong. Cut the pin 5 trace and jumper the resistor to pin 3 not like the picture.)

Do I need to do both to use the trainer function with the HK BL, or one or the other would be enough?
Do the led board fix for sure, do the FET mod for er9x control, do the 1 K ppm resistor mod if your staying with the stick modules.
There's  one more mod if you plan to use any other tx as a trainer slave that has to be done but it's much more involved. The 9x wants to see a 5volt pulse train to drive the trainer jack. Most all other TX'x, jr, Futaba, ect. Put out 1.5-3v pulses and can't drive the 9x. There is a 1 transistor level converter mod you can build and install in your 9x that fixes it si any tx will work.
It does require you to cut fine circuit traces on your 9x main board and solder this onto the cut traces. It's worthwhile, but you have to be good at soldering.

SM

[cre8tiveleo]

Weird

I use my 9x's as trainer/ master boxes, ones a stock system with ppm fix in module and hk bl with transistor mod, the other is a dsm module, no ppm fix, hk bl with sp board, and both work as master and slave box no issues, also with sims.

Hmmm


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.003067,-79.457256

[jhsa]

The 9x's work well with each other no matter which RF module they have installed.. the problem is when you want to user other tx's as student..

[GyroGearloose]

Weird
I use my 9x's as trainer/ master boxes, ones a stock system with ppm fix in module and hk bl with transistor mod, the other is a dsm module, no ppm fix, hk bl with sp board, and both work as master and slave box no issues, also with sims.
Hmmm

The 9x's work well with each other no matter which RF module they have installed.. the problem is when you want to user other tx's as student..

Yes, 9X's talk to one another well, UNTIL you put in the HK BL and fail to do the mod... so in the above, it's still curious that the UNmodified radio with BL is able to work properly.

I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.003067,-79.457256

Oh really? I'm 2-3 hours from you (before Rotfester screwed up their ferry across the puddle, 1 hr from you), and Erazz is in Noy Joyzee, about 3 hours the other way from me... Maybe at some point we should do a little ER9X gathering ("Gathering of the Nerds... there can be only 3"...). Never underestimate the inanity of nerds in modest groups, or something like that...

-Gyro Screwsloose

[cre8tiveleo]

The 9x's work well with each other no matter which RF module they have installed.. the problem is when you want to user other tx's as student..

I use a gutted hp6dsm eflight transmitter as a trainer (slave).

Hmmm, will need to try the dx7 with it... Kds also worked as a slave unit.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.003067,-79.457256

[cre8tiveleo]

Oh really? I'm 2-3 hours from you (before Rotfester screwed up their ferry across the puddle, 1 hr from you), and Erazz is in Noy Joyzee, about 3 hours the other way from me... Maybe at some point we should do a little ER9X gathering ("Gathering of the Nerds... there can be only 3"...). Never underestimate the inanity of nerds in modest groups, or something like that...

-Gyro Screwsloose

I used to fly to rochester intn'l airport, until two phantoms tried to redo my nose while i was on approach... Nothing like two fighters crossing your path within feet of landing...

Power in 3's, wicca. That would be cool, i'd be up for that whem the. Warmer weather hits.
I'll be heading down to noy joyzee / noy yok sometime june for 8th civic fest. Nothing like having 240+ honda civics in one area.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.003067,-79.457256

[ShowMaster]

Weird
I use my 9x's as trainer/ master boxes, ones a stock system with ppm fix in module and hk bl with transistor mod, the other is a dsm module, no ppm fix, hk bl with sp board, and both work as master and slave box no issues, also with sims.
Hmmm

The 9x's work well with each other no matter which RF module they have installed.. the problem is when you want to user other tx's as student..

Yes, 9X's talk to one another well, UNTIL you put in the HK BL and fail to do the mod... so in the above, it's still curious that the UNmodified radio with BL is able to work properly.

I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.003067,-79.457256

Oh really? I'm 2-3 hours from you (before Rotfester screwed up their ferry across the puddle, 1 hr from you), and Erazz is in Noy Joyzee, about 3 hours the other way from me... Maybe at some point we should do a little ER9X gathering ("Gathering of the Nerds... there can be only 3"...). Never underestimate the inanity of nerds in modest groups, or something like that...

-Gyro Screwsloose

All my posted conditions do exist and have been delt with. Let me reword my original statement to read
" if any of the mentioned trainer issues happen after installing the unmodified HK BL or if you find that some brand TX's won't work as a slave, consider doing the modifications that work for others. Also if you've done none of the mods and your systems work 100% run out and buy a lottery ticket now because your a winer but I get half."
SM

[GyroGearloose]

I used to fly to rochester intn'l airport, until two phantoms tried to redo my nose while i was on approach... Nothing like two fighters crossing your path within feet of landing...

And you didn't go weapons hot? What kind of cheezy little plane you flying... even my toy drones have missiles, man!

Oh wait, this could be why the NSA keeps visiting me with men in SWAT gear... darn...

Power in 3's, wicca. That would be cool, i'd be up for that whem the. Warmer weather hits.
I'll be heading down to noy joyzee / noy yok sometime june for 8th civic fest. Nothing like having 240+ honda civics in one area.

That civic fest sounds like a nightmare... good for avoiding drunk driving, though -- by the time you find YOUR car, you're probably sober again.

Lemme know when you start getting ready... I'd imagine you're driving right past me on rt90... Dunno if you're thinking quick social hi-5 or getting some airtime here, but depending on the season there's plenty of (usually cooperative) farmer's fields and golf courses around. The GC RIGHT behind my house is understandably nazi as soon as the paying golfers arrive, but this time of year the farm fields are shaved bare and the course is deserted. Best time of year to fly, if your Canuck blood can stand the frozen-finger-flying... Once the corn sprouts, it's a much rougher landing for fixed wings and I have to go down to the local muni park...

I'm a bit of a rebel as far as the whole "offical" club field goes... There IS a local RC club, but between their membership, AMA requirement and mandatory maintenance requirements, I could get a nice new model every year and few extra days to fly it... Befriending a local farmer and having private fields has always worked better for me (not withstanding the occasional look of "You fly toys, are you retarded?" before seeing these aren't kiddy "toys" per se). If you can leverage your hobby by inspecting their silo with your helicopter's camera, they might even pay you to fly over their land. I've done a few visual roof inspections for friends as well -- beats the hell out of a ladder and crushing their roof with my 280lb left foot (the rest of me is weightless)!

-Gyro Whizbang