openrcforums

Obviously, by looking at the posted picks, yes, it is the psp 1000 stick.

This is what I want to do.
a) I want to have channel 11, 12 to control pan/tilt of FPVcamera
b) I want to have channel 8, 10 (9 is used for PPM out) to control pan/tilt of HD camera

For a) I can use a joystick built in my Tx
For b) I want to use a Nintendo Nunchuck (very cheap) that includes a 2 axis joystick with 10kohm pots, connected by wire to the Tx

This way my spotter can control the HD camera while the pilot uses its joystick to control FPV camera.

MY QUESTION:
How do I connect this to the TX?
Do I have to remove all pots?
Do I have channels/pots enough that support this?

Please help me....

This is what I want to do.
a) I want to have channel 11, 12 to control pan/tilt of FPVcamera
b) I want to have channel 8, 10 (9 is used for PPM out) to control pan/tilt of HD camera

For a) I can use a joystick built in my Tx
For b) I want to use a Nintendo Nunchuck (very cheap) that includes a 2 axis joystick with 10kohm pots, connected by wire to the Tx

This way my spotter can control the HD camera while the pilot uses its joystick to control FPV camera.

MY QUESTION:
How do I connect this to the TX?
Do I have to remove all pots?
Do I have channels/pots enough that support this?

Please help me....

This could work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Handle-Joys ... 35bcf9099b

Yes, though the playstation gimbals are much larger than the thumb-slide joysticks. The footprint is comparable, but the slides are nearly flat. Using the gimbals' associated playstation knob/sticks will likely pose a problem as they have a spherical dome-base that shields the gimbal - the gimbal would have to be mounted via it's base. Sparkfun elec. sells a breakout PCB (as well as the gimbals themselves) that also provides mounting screw holes, but it will still be more time consuming than drilling a hole for the thumbslide(s), dropping them in and smearing some hot glue around.

Hy guys,

One Question, the poti of the psp 1000 joystick has just 2 Pins not 3 like the standart potis. Which wires do you connect ?

Can you pleas explain to me how you wired it up ?

Thanks for your Help

Moe

It has 4 actually
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9426

+/- are common for both axes.

Thanks for the link. Now it works perfekt !

here is a easy pinout description too

http://mechail.files.wordpress.com/2009 ... %3Fw%3D470

The only problem is the bad neutral position of this little joystick. But we will se how it works on the Gimbal

Moe

Yeah, the PSP thumb slide stick doesn't center very well. I suppose the centering spring isn't enough to overcome friction at stick center. I had to program a pretty wide dead-band on my gimbal control mixes. I wonder if the PS Vita stick is any better.

I was looking at these joysticks...

http://www.apem.com/Miniature-Hall-effe ... d-208.html

Calamari wrote:I was looking at these joysticks...

If you want to spend $100+ per stick, sure there's lots of nice industrial options out there.

Didn't realize they were that much till yesterday...

I'm now thinking a PS Vita joystick may work at $10

I just came across this one, I think I may order one and give it a shot in my 9XR http://www.amazon.com/YUEQING-OMTER-ELE ... B00CS6O352

Maxxheadroom wrote:I just came across this one, I think I may order one and give it a shot in my 9XR

I have a couple of the 3-axis versions of those sticks... they're really not much smaller than the stock sticks.

Okay, could anyone here please tell me how you managed to solder the pins on the PSP 1000 joystick? They are just flat gold contacts and I cannot for the life of me solder wires to each of the contacts individually. Either I accidentally connect two of them, or the wire easily breaks out of the solder, or the plastic around the contact melts and the gold contact just completely comes off, essentially ruining it.

Stormister, Sounds like you are using too much heat. This maybe from too big of a tip or contact for too long. I would suggest looking on YouTube as there are many excellent videos on good soldering technique. You will need good flux and leaded solder. Pre tin both wire and pad. Load your small flat tip with a small amount of solder and it should take a brief touch of the tip to the wire/pad to make a good joint. The fact that the wire is coming loose after soldering means there is a "cold" joint. This means that the solder did not bind to either the wire or the pad. Bridging is from too much solder and a big tip. I am no expert but am speaking from experience. All of those things have happened to me too. There are some real experts on YouTube.
Good luck
Mike