Ubuntu with no flash love.

[Scurvy]

OK, new SmartieParts board installed into new Eurgle 9x V2.

I've installed eepe into my ubuntu system from svn, seems to work fine (was getting crashes using packaged version).

I was trying to save the stock settings, but kept getting strange errors about saving a file.
I left the machine plugged in while I did some reading, I changed the udev stuff so the permissions were correct, and now I just get:

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avrdude: error: programm enable: target doesn't answer. 1 
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
         this check.

I've cleaned the pads with iso (twice in fact), made sure they were clean. There's no wires on my Eurgle 9x like the V1 pictures, and only a stub antenna on the body, so that's why I think it's a V2. I've rebooted the computer, unplugged the Tx for a few minutes b4 trying again, and am out of ideas at this point.

The last time I took it apart to clean the contacts I took a picture of the board. Hopefully this will be of use.
So close, but yet so far!

[Rob Thomson]

I just checked the photo against this one:



Looks like your board is correct - and a v2. That is good!

So... I think that you are not making good contact. You want to make sure the smartie board goes down level.. all pins are straight.. and 'clean those pads'.

I haave had some boards refuse to work until I 'tinned' each pad with solder! (It was quicker than cleaning)

Rob

[SR71]

I left the machine plugged in while I did some reading, I changed the udev stuff so the permissions were correct, and now I just get:

I suppose you already did the obvious, in any case, what about lsusb output ?
Did you force udev to reread the rules with

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sudo udevadm control --reload-rules

?

[gohsthb]

On ubuntu you simply need to do "sudo restart udev" however you will need to unplug and replug the usb cable on the programmer after running that command. That is not the problem though. In eepe under the burn configuration try adding"-B 10"and see of that helps. Also what Rob stated above should be done. Your programmer is connected to the computer just fine. Now it needs to connect to the atmega64.
-gohst

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

[Scurvy]

So... I think that you are not making good contact. You want to make sure the smartie board goes down level.. all pins are straight.. and 'clean those pads'.
I haave had some boards refuse to work until I 'tinned' each pad with solder! (It was quicker than cleaning)

I was going to tin them, but then thought that was overkill since one of the reported problems was too much solder on the pads!
I'll get out my trusty eraser and try the slot-car tricks from my youth, as I see others having success with rubber over iso!

I left the machine plugged in while I did some reading, I changed the udev stuff so the permissions were correct, and now I just get:

I suppose you already did the obvious, in any case, what about lsusb output ?

output of "lsusb":

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Bus 004 Device 003: ID 16c0:05dc VOTI USBasp AVR Programmer

output of "sudo lsusb -v":

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Bus 004 Device 003: ID 16c0:05dc VOTI USBasp AVR Programmer
Device Descriptor:
  bLength                18
  bDescriptorType         1
  bcdUSB               1.10
  bDeviceClass          255 Vendor Specific Class
  bDeviceSubClass         0 
  bDeviceProtocol         0 
  bMaxPacketSize0         8
  idVendor           0x16c0 VOTI
  idProduct          0x05dc USBasp AVR Programmer
  bcdDevice            1.03
  iManufacturer           1 www.fischl.de
  iProduct                2 USBasp
  iSerial                 0 
  bNumConfigurations      1
  Configuration Descriptor:
    bLength                 9
    bDescriptorType         2
    wTotalLength           18
    bNumInterfaces          1
    bConfigurationValue     1
    iConfiguration          0 
    bmAttributes         0x80
      (Bus Powered)
    MaxPower               50mA
    Interface Descriptor:
      bLength                 9
      bDescriptorType         4
      bInterfaceNumber        0
      bAlternateSetting       0
      bNumEndpoints           0
      bInterfaceClass         0 (Defined at Interface level)
      bInterfaceSubClass      0 
      bInterfaceProtocol      0 
      iInterface              0 
Device Status:     0x0000
  (Bus Powered)

This all looks correct to me, but I'm no expert!

On ubuntu you simply need to do "sudo restart udev" however you will need to unplug and replug the usb cable on the programmer after running that command. That is not the problem though. In eepe under the burn configuration try adding"-B 10"and see of that helps. Also what Rob stated above should be done. Your programmer is connected to the computer just fine. Now it needs to connect to the atmega64.

I did restart udev, wasn't sure if I had to unplug-and-replug or not after that, but I'm sure at one point I tried that combination too. I even rebooted, knowing it wasn't necessary but not sure what else to do (sometimes even Linux likes to just reboot a-la Windows).

I will try the "-B 10", and also rubber cleaning the pads and double-checking straightness of pins (they all seemed to spring properly, and I did clean the bottom of them with a bit of iso too)...

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=================================================================================
Started AVRDUDE
avrdude -c usbasp -p m64 -B 10 -U eeprom:r:/tmp/temp.hex:i
=================================================================================

avrdude: set SCK frequency to 93750 Hz
avrdude: error: programm enable: target doesn't answer. 1 
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
         this check.


avrdude done.  Thank you.


=================================================================================
AVRDUDE done - exit code 1
=================================================================================

That last test was done before any new cleaning (hope springs eternal!), so I guess after breakfast I'll re-crack open this controller and apply rubber!
/me crosses his fingers!
Thanks very much for all the help!

[rperkins]

probably not your issue but worth noting. viewtopic.php?f=44&t=766&start=30#p11036

Also with my usbasp programmer removing the smd capacitor by the reset line made it work much better.

[Scurvy]

probably not your issue but worth noting. viewtopic.php?f=44&t=766&start=30#p11036

Also with my usbasp programmer removing the smd capacitor by the reset line made it work much better.

I read that thread as part of my searching, I didn't have any issues with putting in the USB, slow-and-steady pressure as much on the board as my big fingers would let me & it seemed to work just fine initially, other than what seemed to be permission issues.

I'm not sure what you mean about your 2nd line, should I unsolder the surface-mount capacitor?

[rperkins]

Here is the issue that removing the capacitor solved.

The first time I plugged in the usbasp it would work.
Then on additional attempts to communicate it would give an errors similar to this.

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avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9602
avrdude: Expected signature for ATMEGAxx is xx xx xx
         Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.

Then I could unplug the usbasp from the computer and replug it in and it would work one time again.

So If you have issues like this, removing the capacitor may help.

*note*- post updated to have code show a more generic message. When communicating with a 9x it should say atmega64. The Device signature error was not limited to communicating to the 9x, it exposed itself with other targets as well. removing the capacitor on the reset line improved communication with all targets.

[Kilrah]

Good to know.

Interestingly I had that signature issue but that seemed more computer related... I've flashed my 9x (with integrated usbasp, so it's always the same) dozens of times with my desktop PC without a single problem, and the other day I installed the same version of C9X and usbasp driver to my laptop and had that issue come up. Power supply isn't even taken off the usb port, so it really looked like something software-related...

[Romolo]

atmega8 ?
It should be atmega64
may you copy and paste the full output screen ?

[rperkins]

hello. thanks for the reply. sorry for the confusion.

it says atmega 8 because I copied that particular device signature error from another post and never noticed the target processor when pasting the error code here. At times when troubleshooting another usbasp was used as the target, and the usbasp does have a atmega8.

Just to clarify.

1. The OP never mentioned having a verification error. He does mention 'target doesnt answer' errors which I would see when continuing to try to get my usbasp working without removing and reinserting the usb connection.
2. I mentioned that removing the capacitor on the reset line helped me and he asked for details.
3. In the reply was posted a failed attempt to communicate with an atmega8. When communicating with a 9x it should have read atmega64. the post has been edited to reflect this. thanks

[Scurvy]

SOLVED!
And OH MY GOD what a silly failure to cause so many problems!

So... the problem was that I was overtightening the screw on the bottom near the USB.
BUT I wasn't actually overtightening it, I was very careful each time to tighten until it 'hit the bottom' (I'd watch that the head touched the board and that the board was on it's bottom) and then stop, but I noticed something this last time that I never noticed before... as I tightened the last turn or so, the orientation of the board actually shifted a tiny bit, so I backed off and plugged it in...

I now have er9x flashed, haven't tested it yet but eepe made happy noises this time anyway!

So this may be a further warning... be very aware when you tighten that the board itself doesn't move... I'll give it some tests and see if the connection's stable.

Thanks for the help!

[Scurvy]

Wow, and it's finnicky... I had left one screw loose and went in to tighten, and now have the problem again.
*sigh*
I'll try and make it balanced properly, I'm not sure having a screw loose is a good idea (and I'm sure I have at least one loose in myself anyway!)

[gohsthb]

Sounds like a post or 2 isn't straight. If you were to take the board out again I would recheck that. Or you can just leave the screw loose, to where the board works, and stick a drop of hot glue on it, to prevent it from backing out.
-Gohst

[Scurvy]

I did check the posts originally when I checked the springs and cleaned the tips, everything looked straight.
I've got it working now, tight enough I think. If it keeps being finnicky I'll take it apart again and double-check the posts!

Now on to figuring out how to drive my Wraith (rock 'crawler') w/ this thing. LOL!