openrcforums

If you look at my installation on the first post of this thread, you will see that I use the connectors from the taranis Gimbals

João

Yes and it's a good solution, but I didn't install the Taranis gimbals, I'm ok with the stock gimbals.
So I use the 5 pin JST plug that comes with the Taranis sliders !

Thanks for the help guys

I also noticed that you can also get the JST 9 pin plugs and wires/pins from RS online in the UK

But I have chosen the easy option and ordered the ready wired plugs from Ebay China with the wire colours matching the pictures

By the way I think the 6 pin plugs and wire EZ telemetry connectors supplied with original SP boards would also do the connection job for extra switches and sliders with a bit of cutting work

You might also be interested to know that RS online also supply the Taranis type 3 position switches ( part no 734 7135) in small quantities at a cheap price with next day delivery

regards
Hans

Hi Joao

I'm preparing to install sliders on my 9Xtreme by following your excellent illustrations

I have a question before I start - what's the best method to cut away the Tx case to accommodate the slider?

Did you just use a sharp knife ?

Do you have any advice to avoid problems you may have encountered?

regards
Hans

Make sure you measure everything correctly and mark all on the case before opening the hole for the slider. I used one of those abrasive stone tools on my dremel. Don't know if it is the right tool but it did the job very well
You could also use a smal round file, or one with a flat surface and a round surface. Use the round one obviously. Be careful not to hit wires and gimbals with the file.
cut just a little bit at the time checking always with the actual slider you will instal to avoid a too large hole. It is very easy to happen. Make sure both halves of the tx case can be joined together but remain quite tight around the slider.
When cutting/filing/grinding, etc, make sure you keep it as clean as possible, to avoid plastic dust to make its way to the gimbals..
I used hot glue to hold the slider in place.

João

Hi Joao

Thanks for the quick reply and the helpful advice

It gives me confidence to start the job without any nasty surprises

I hope you manage to solve your problem connecting to the PC - I am sure Mike or Steven will come up with an answer

many thanks
regards
Hans

Thanks, I hope so

João

Hi Guys

Thanks to your help I have successfully installed two Taranis sliders and I'm very pleased with the result.

A couple of points to note:-

The way I installed them, ie with the greater lever movement to the front/top of the transmitter, the connections should be reversed from those shown in the installation pictures - so for the left stick slider the red wire is connected to pin1 and the brown wire is connected to ground pin 4
The right stick slider wiring is the same as your installation picture

In the hardware menu, pot4 was assigned to EXT2 and pot5 was assigned to EXT3

Although pot5 does not appear on the home screen, it does appear when calibrating so you can check its centered ok

hope this might help others to complete this upgrade

regards
Hans

lancaster wrote:Hi Guys

Thanks to your help I have successfully installed two Taranis sliders and I'm very pleased with the result.

Well done, nice that is working..

A couple of points to note:-
The way I installed them, ie with the greater lever movement to the front/top of the transmitter, the connections should be reversed from those shown in the installation pictures - so for the left stick slider the red wire is connected to pin1 and the brown wire is connected to ground pin 4
The right stick slider wiring is the same as your installation picture

I only installed one, so I had no idea the connections were different.. I will add a note.. Thanks

In the hardware menu, pot4 was assigned to EXT2 and pot5 was assigned to EXT3

On recent versions of the firmware (at least the test versions) The Inputs for the Pots are not called "EXTx" anymore, but "AIPx". So yours would be AIP2 (Analog input 2), and AIP3.

João

Thanks Joao
I must keep my firmware up to date!

Did you manage to fix your bootloader?
regards
Hans

Still testing, but it seems to be working now..

João

glad to hear it !

Hans

False alarm
After your post I went test it again. Had failures. But at least is not freezing..
But better continue this discussion on the other thread

Thank you for asking anyway

João

Hi João,
Thank you so much for documenting these this is awesome stuff.
Can I please ask you what type of switches you used for the extra 4 push buttons you installed.

Regards,
Neil

Hi Neil.. I used something like this.. Not sure if I bought them from this seller, but they are similar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pcs-Tactile- ... XQfvlSlEqo

João

EDIT: A couple more links:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-4-pin-DIP ... SwcdBWRrMT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-Tactile-P ... XQnXFRbB4G

Hi João,
Thank you for the links, I will purchase one of those as well.
I already have some coming, I just was not sure if you were using momentary or latching style switches.

Regards,
Neil

Oh, I didn't realize you just wanted to know that
I use momentary but latching could also he used.

You can make a latching switch using a momentary switch and a logical switch in software. For example, take the TRN switch that is momentary.
Now go to the logical switches menu and program one of them like this:

L1 F-Flop TRN !L1

This means that the TRN is the switch we are using to change the state of the logical switch and !L1 is the inverse of L1, or the inverse of the logical switch itself.
So, every time you flick the switch the logical switch will change to the inverse of its actual state.
If it was OFF it will turn ON, and if it was ON it will turn OFF.

João

Hi João,
That is fantastic information thank you, your responses are very much appreciated.

Regards,
Neil

Hi João,
Can I please ask one more question?
What size are your haptic motors?
I got some in but they are tiny.. 4 x 8 mm they just don't seem big enough

Regards,
Neil

I think, I bought these..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-DC-1-5-3V- ... Sw3ydV4-bG

João

Thank you so much for this thread João, and to Mike for the software tweaks. I have just hacked the hell out of my FS-th9x with 2 more pots (taranis sliders) 2 x 3 position switches, haptic feed back, just waiting on 4 buttons and 2 more 3 position switches to completely fill it up it has been fun, thanks..

Neil

Hi João,

Thanks for the guide on how to install Taranis gimbals.
I installed a pair in my 9x yesterday, and they are quite an upgrade from stock! I had a bit of a centering issue with the 9x gimbals (off by ~2.5% when returning from the far end), but these gimbals solved it. Not to mention they feel much smoother.

Now if only I could fix the case...

ksrivatsan wrote:Hi João,

Thanks for the guide on how to install Taranis gimbals.
I installed a pair in my 9x yesterday, and they are quite an upgrade from stock! I had a bit of a centering issue with the 9x gimbals (off by ~2.5% when returning from the far end), but these gimbals solved it. Not to mention they feel much smoother.

Yeah, they are quite good, the Taranis gimbals

Now if only I could fix the case...

Not sure I understand what you mean

João

This... The threads for the six screws that hold the 9X together are basically gone. My radio is being held together by duct tape!
Hey, as long as it works...

I have a couple of screws with the same issue, I have ordered some new screws a little larger diameter.

I've found using some 6BA, self-tap screws, 20mm long work well if the thread has gone.
One useful piece of advice I'll repeat here. When putting the screws back in, turn them slowly BACKWARDS until they click slightly. You are then lined up with the existing cut thread and are less likely to strip the plastic.

Mike.

I thi k there are different quality of plastic used on the 9x radios. My oldest radio was opened and closed lots of times i 6 years. 12 way connector died but the threads are all still very good.

I have another much newer 9x that I have opened just a few times, and the threads are all gone. Radio is held together with tape.. Ahh, and I didn't even put all screws in when I knew I was going to open it again soon. I did put half of them, and next time I put only the other half, so the threads weren't used that often.

João

Thanks for the help!

MikeB wrote:I've found using some 6BA, self-tap screws, 20mm long work well if the thread has gone.

Unfortunately, 6BA screws are a bit hard to come by in the US. Do you think M2.5 or M3 screws will work? They are a bit easier to find.

MikeB wrote: One useful piece of advice I'll repeat here. When putting the screws back in, turn them slowly BACKWARDS until they click slightly. You are then lined up with the existing cut thread and are less likely to strip the plastic.

Good point, I'll try to remember this.

ksrivatsan wrote:Unfortunately, 6BA screws are a bit hard to come by in the US. Do you think M2.5 or M3 screws will work? They are a bit easier to find.

I had to look up "6BA screws"... the result was that they are a "mostly obsolete" British-specific standard, so I am not surprised you can't find them. Looks like 6BA is 2.8mm while a US #4 screw is 2.845... so that'll probably work. Here they are at bolddepot.com.