[SOLVED] Changing a 2-pos switch for a 3-pos switch

[Moby58]

Hi Guys,

I have tread some of the articles in here on switch changing, and had the radio apart to see the innards.

However, still a bit confused, so would appreciate some help.

What I would like to do is swap out a 2-pos switch for a 3-pos switch.

Preferably, I would like to make the RUDDER D/R switch into a 3-pos

Now, from what I gather, it isnt as simple as on some other radio, as the 2-pos switch only has 2 wires.

I have seen, where it looks like you de-solder the wires and then run the black (earth? to thr centre pin, and then the old centre wire to an outer pin, then a resistor (around 100 ohm) connecting the 2 outer pins. I gather this then give a direct 'short', an open circuit, or a resistance, and then is seen as 3 different setting.

However, from what I can make out, you can only do this in a certain order of the switches? eg may have to do a particular switch before you can maybe do the one you really want.

Is that right? If so, what is the order on left and right sides?

Also, from what I gather, i can actually unsolder the 2-pos switch, tape the wires up, and then run 3 new wires from the 3-pos switch to a different input on one of the boards?

Is that right?

Also understand, whatever I do, I will need to go into the right menu and let the radio know what's been changed.

So, ids there a simple explanation on doing all this somewhere. Designed for someone that doesnt know all the intricacies' of the microchips, etc??

TIA

[MikeB]

Yes connect the ground wire to the centre pin of the 3-position switch.
Yes connect the existing signal wire to one side of the 3-position switch.
What you then need is to connect the other side of the 3-position switch to J2 pin 2.
Then go to the hardware menu (recent firmware versions have this disabled unless you power on holding the left horizontal trim to the left), go down until you get to RUD switch and change NONE to DAC1.

Mike.

[Moby58]

Thanks Mike,

And confirming, I can do any of the switches in any order? I dont need to do, say, ELEV D/Rfirst??

And the 100ohm resister is ok to join the outer pins??

[MikeB]

No to the 100K, you wire J2, pin 2 to the other side of the new, 3-pos switch.
If you want to do other switches, then for one more change the ELE switch by using the "spare" analog input.
Let us know what, and how many, switches you want to change.

Mike.

[Moby58]

Thanks Mike.
Just doing the one switch.
And J2, pin2 is the spare digital channel??

On to it!!

Thanks for all that

[Moby58]

All done, and works a treat!!

Just like a bought one....

[mikeller]

Hi Mike.

These options are gread, thanks for the good work.
I have done the following modifications to my 9XR pro:

1. replaced THR with a 3-position switch, wired to THR (up) and RUD (down) inputs
2. replaced RUD with a 3-position switch, hooked up to J3/2 as described here

For 1, is there a reason that only ELE is available in the hardware menu to be assigned to another switch input to make a 'combined 3-position switch'? If not, I am happy to do the implementation for it.

For 2, is this still supported? None of the available options for 3-position switches seemed to work for this setup.

Also, there is a little bit of UI inconsistency in the hardware menu: after the 6-position switch page, the 'continued' (

Code: Select all

[->]

) symbol is missing on the subsequent pages. Again, happy to fix.

Cheers
Michael Keller

[MikeB]

1. Historical! I first implemented just the ELE switch as a 3-position switch using J3/2, so its wire was the only one available. I didn't bother with the other possibilities as, with the LCD signals also available (via resistors), I thought there were enough options for converting other switches. Also, the code for reading the switch positons can become cumbersome with too many options.
2. You need to select ANA. You may need to flash a more recent test version for this to be available.

I committed all the sources to Github yesterday (next branch).

Mike.

[mikeller]

Hi Mike.

Unfortunately building from the tip of next gives me a binary that results in a flickering blank LCD when turning on the 9XR pro. This is built on the same install that gave me a good build of the tip of next on 30/12.
The build from 30/12 has the option 'ANA' for the ELE switch. However, selecting this option does not make the switch that is hooked up to J3/2 work as 'ELE'.

Also, I think these historical options are actually quite good. They allow a user to add 2 more 3-position switches without having to solder on the board.

I selected THR and RUD for a similar reason. The assembly holding these can be removed from the TX easily, and thus made it easy to drill out the holes, as was required to fit the only 3-position switches that are available locally.

Cheers
Michael Keller

[MikeB]

I posted builds here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4676#p65894, from the sources.

Did you check on the main board that R22 is either fitted or has a wire link across it? I believe, by default, the board is shipped without any R22.

Mike.

[mikeller]

Hi Mike.

Nope I didn't. It was in fact missing. Is that HK pinching pennies? I've added a 70 as R22 (100 would be the correct value?) that I could get out of a piece of junk floating around. Now the ANA input works in my build from 30/12. Thanks Mike.

Cheers
Michael Keller

[MikeB]

70 ohms is fine. Often just a piece of wire is used!

Mike.