openrcforums

Such a filter circuit also reduces the maximum rate at which movement will be detected correctly.

Mike.

Well, it is working correctly, no jumps or going backwards like before, and I can still change the values really fast..
There is probably a trade off between reliability and speed, but I believe that speed without reliability is slower and it probably doesn't even actually work.
This is working really nice and as it should, before it didn't. Might make a video later and post it. Shame that I don't have any video of it before the fix..

João

Hi,

I'm looking to get the max number of physical switches/pot's out of this radio. Besides the spare digital and spare analog I have heard a little about using the extra LCD inputs. Has anyone done this yet? Is there an updated schematic that shows the connections and does the latest firmware support it? Any insight into this or a point in the right direction would be appreciated.

As an alternative i see I can use the trainer port as an input source. Is there a limit to the number of ppm channels I can feed it? Can I use say a Channel Wizard connected to the trainer port and get 8 or more additional switches? This would be the expensive way. I hoping there are indeed more free inputs already in the radio. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1576877


Thanks, Leonard

Are you looking for more switches, or to change existing switches to 3-position?

There are 4 digital inputs available, the DAC1 signal, which may be used directly, and the three LCD signals (LCD2, LCD6 and LCD7), which all need a 3K9 resistor in series.
If you just want extra switches, then use PB1 to PB4.

Mike.

I'm looking for more switches and pots if available. There are other uses beside flying such as controlling a robot where I can use all switches/pots I can get. I have seen all the examples on changing to 3-position switches. If I were to use 2 modules in the radio I would want as many real switches as possible to control the 24 channels before having to resort to logical switches.

So there are 8 additional switch inputs. DAC1, LCD2, LCD6,LCD7, PB1, PB2,PB3 and PB4. The LCD signals were easy enough to find. They appear to lead to pins R, D0 and D1 on the expansion bus. For the life of me I can't find PB1 to PB4 and DAC1. I have been looking up and down this board for the last hour. Do you mean TP1 to TP4? My board is a 9XR Pro version 1.10 There are no PB's except for PB12. Also,where is DAC1 on the board?

With all of these connections I assume they should go through a switch to GND correct? Except for the LCD signals which should be in series 3K9 resistor to switch to GND? What is that 9 in your resistor value? I get that its a 3000 ohm resistor. Is it a size such as 1/4 watt?

Thanks for all your help. I'm slowly learning how this radio works. I can see there is some exciting stuff coming. It takes a dedicated person to keep all of this going.

Mike what about that arduino project of yours that would connect to the radio over i2c? A pro mini has ( I think) 13 digital pins and 7 analog (chinese version). If you use A4 and A5 for the i2c connection, there are still 5 analog inputs that could be used.
Thanks.

João

There are a limited number of spare physical inputs, DAC1, LCD2, LCD6 and LCD7. PB1 to PB4 are the names of possible switches that may use these spare physical inputs.
One way of getting more control inputs is to use the trim switches. In mixes that use the stick inputs, you have the option of whether the trim is included. If you don't need to use trim, then don't include it. You may then use the trim values as the sources of GVARS, and then GVARS as the sources of mixes.

Mike.

Now it all makes since to me. Thanks for pointing that out. Where is DAC1 on the board? Sorry if that's a newbie question but I guess I am.

Will this circuit work? See attached image. Instead of using a rotary switch I would use 5 momentary switches. I would then use a logical switch for each position. For each analog/pot I give up I gain 5 switches. What would the logical switch setup look like for this to work? The problem I see is even though I have 5 switches I can only use one switch at a time. Is there a way to set up a logical switch for each position so I can push once to turn it on then push again to turn it off? That would mean when I push switch 1 once which is 25% of the range Logical switch 1 turns on. I can then push any other switch say at 75% of range once to turn it on. If I go back and push switch 1 again logical switch 1 then turns off. Does this sound doable or is it to much to ask? There would have to be a way to deal with switch bounce.

I think I did run across a project where they used a arduino to generate PPM from analog and digital inputs. If so I would think it can then be connected to the trainer port. There are lots of boards that convert PWM to PPM or SBUS. If this is an easier path. The arduino can be used to generate the PWM from inputs, switches and or pots then output the PWM to a second board to create the PPM signal. This in turn goes to the trainer port. Walla!
The question still remains how many PPM channels can the trainer port handle?

If it used I2c instead to communicate with the mainboard you (or anybody else) wouldn't lose the possibility of using the trainer.

João

You could use the spare analog input and configure it as a 6-position switch. This would handle 5 input push buttons and the firmware includes de-bounce and calibration.
If you set a Logical switch as type "F-Flop", the first switch as your source switch and the second switch as the "Not" of the logical switch, then it will toggle each time the source switch turns on.
Try it in eepskye:
L1: F-Flop TRN !L1

Mike.

I've just been testing some code that handles the left vertical trim switches as push buttons, useable anywhere any other switch/push button may be used. They seem to be working correctly.
I may need to add something else in, on a per model basis, to disable selected trim switches from moving the trim values and beeping for when you want to use the trim switches as push buttons.

Mike.

What about people that use modes 1 and 3 (Throttle on the right)?
Also multirotor people and/or people that use flight controllers might not need any of the trims.

Thanks

João

I'll get to all that, so all trim switches may be used as push buttons and are selected by name, but the correct trim switch is used based on the mode and crosstrim selections.

Mike.

If a trim is active in the mixer then it should override this new feature..

João

Trying to figure out my next step.
I was noticing that on a hard punchout I was getting yaw drift. I thought maybe I had a motor going out or a bad ESC but then I noticed it on multiple copter on different protocols etc.

I first took it into the reciever tab on betaflight/raceflight w/e and noticed that as I surpassed the 1500 threshold and going up the yaw # starts to go up and drift for a yaw right move. I wondered if this was related to calibration so I re-calibrated the radio in the menu's.

STILL the same result and the numbers look the same to me. What I'm seeing on the stick overlay in the calibration menu is a slight movement right in the throttle/yaw stick (MODE 2) past ~1500 on the output. I can't seem to to calibrate out of it. The stick is moving vertical on a line, it does not appear to moving to the right to cause the yaw but internally it's seeing it. I can't fix this was trim adjustments because it affects the whole range and I'm only having the issue above mid-stick.

Any thoughts? Should I tear it apart and see what's up with the gimbal? Reflash the firmware on the stick?

Thanks

Chances are the rudder(yaw) pot body is moving, so worth opening up the radio and checking this.

Mike.

If it is, just hold it with some hot glue and see if the problem stops..

João

Ok thank's guys. I will report back.

Hi guys, using the hobbyking monitor mount, I'm planning on mounting a 7' monitor and my vRx on my 9XR Pro. Can someone tell me some possible options of conveniently and easily tapping into a 12V/batt power supply on the 9XR Pro? Thanks for any help

Quick post to share my experience on mounting Taranis sticks on a 9XR/9XR Pro.
I've followed the post located here to get me starting: viewtopic.php?f=122&p=99332#p99332
But once in the radio the sticks are not able to reach the corners anymore since they are touching the faceplate...
Since I didn't wanted to touch the faceplate (ugly mod), I've decided to mod the Taranis sticks.
I've added a small 3D printed part (0.8mm thick) at the top and bottom of each sticks which reduce the throw of the throttle/elevator axis by a small amount.

It's a pretty neat solution since I'm using an existing fixation hole at the back of the taranis sticks. The small part I've designed has anti rotation pads at the back so it can't interfere with the stick movement even if becoming loose. You can bearly see the pads on the picture above but here is what it looks like:

I can now reach 100% on both axis of the same stick without an issue as shown on this picture:

I'm linking the SketchUp source file and stl if someone is interrested.

Pascal

The new M9 Hall Effect Gimbal (http://alofthobbies.com/m9-gimbal.html) maybe able to be used (fit) in the 9XR-Pro radios.
I do not have one of the 9XR-Pro radios, but would be cool if some one could try and see if they would fit.
Maybe a very good option to upgrading the poorly made stock Gimbals in the 9XR-Pro radios.
Some more info here: (viewtopic.php?f=122&t=9683).

Bob B.

The M9 gimbal isn't going to work for us in this radio, completely different from the gimbal it was replacing. Flat aluminum plate can't be adapted to the 9xr in any whay I could see, and I'm a fabricator. Wasn't worth the effort and I didn't want to hack up a perfectly good gimbal. The Frsky gimbal that came in the Taranis is easily adaptable to the 9xr and works flawlessly. I have 6 9xr radios with these gimbals that I've been using for years, two 9xrPro's with them also.

I have to agree. When I was looking at changing the gimbals in mine I looked into the M9 but decided I didn't want to hack both my radio and the gimbal to get it to fit so went for the PR10 gimbals and I'm more than happy with the way they work.

Are they the latest thing with hall sensors? No, but they work very well and have great feel to them and using the 3D printed adapters that Pascal made they just work brilliantly.

I even went mad and painted my faceplate to give it a more subtle and less shiny look - goes well with the trim extenders I added since I was struggling to find my trims when flying...

MikeB wrote: ↑Sun Oct 16, 2016 2:10 pm Are you looking for more switches, or to change existing switches to 3-position?

There are 4 digital inputs available, the DAC1 signal, which may be used directly, and the three LCD signals (LCD2, LCD6 and LCD7), which all need a 3K9 resistor in series.
If you just want extra switches, then use PB1 to PB4.

Mike.

I want to add two 3 position switches without removing any pots or existing switches... is this possible? What is PB1 to PB4? I am looking at the schamatic found https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopi ... 122&t=5659

PB1 to PB4 are for extra switches (Push Buttons, hence PB), although I don't support these as 3-position switches.
You should, however, be able to connect a 3-pos switch as PB1 on when up, PB2 on when down and both off when in the centre, then use a logic switch to decode the middle position:
L1 AND !PB1 !PB2
would give L1 ON when the switch is in the centre position.

Alternatively, convert 2 of the existing 2-pos switches to 3-pos, and add two 2-pos switches as PB1 and PB2.

Mike

MikeB wrote:
Alternatively, convert 2 of the existing 2-pos switches to 3-pos, and add two 2-pos switches as PB1 and PB2.

Mike

This would be the best option in my opinion

João

Thanks Mike and Joao,

Your answers make perfect sense in theory. Lets say I convert 2 of the existing 2 way switches to 3 position switches, do I NEED a resister for one of said switches, both, or no resister at all? Once done there, how do I add 4 push button switches? Am I going to need to add resisters in series to make the switches work right?
I used to be really good at doing this kind of stuff, but for some reason I have been staring at both the board and the schematics found in the wiring Q&A thread but cant seam to figure out where besides the spare unused J2-2 and J3-3 connectors. As I have watched several video tutorials for doing the 3 position switch swap they all use at least one resistor. again thank you gentlemanw for your help, you two guys are the reason I bought this radio in the first place... I am very sad that hobbyking has discontinued it.

what will happen if i dont use a resister on j2-2 as a 2 pos switch?

J2-2 dont need resistor. That is a digital input.