9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Hardware Support for the 9XR Pro
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mnementh
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

My new Taranis just arrived.

Uggh.

[EDIT]
*Delete lots of griping about poor quality LCDs*

Sorry. :oops:

[/EDIT]


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by Daedalus66 »

Is this a positive comment or a negative one? What am I missing?
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

Ummm... :oops:

As you may know, I had issues with the LCD on my brand new 9XR Pro. Before I figured out the culprit, I got mad... mad enough that I took the money from selling my fully modded-out 9X and ordered a Taranis.

When it got here, I was dumbfounded to find that the display on it was actually WORSE than my 9XR Pro, even almost as bad as my 9X before I modded it to death. After spending $120 on the Pro, then another $200 on the Taranis, and neither of them had a screen that came close to being as nice as my old $50 9XR, I went off. I came in here and on the RCG Taranis thread without taking a reasonable "Count to 10" and bloviated about it; pissed off some folks in the Taranis thread and appeared to have killed this thread for 2 days.

When common sense took hold, I felt it was only fair to delete the offensive matter and apologize. :roll:


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A "Feature" not a "Bug"?!

Post by fburden »

Hmmmmm would it be possible that you discovered a nice "Feature"? 100% brightness at only a total of 2.2ma, sound's like efficient power usage to me = improved Tx battery flight time.

As a pro software tester for 15 years, I would say you definitely did good by noticing this and bringing it to the developers attention. You could be dead wrong, but the discussion is very worthwhile.

Then again, maybe the Taranis has an equavalent hardware "fault" or "feature" -- whatever you want to call it. Whenever I "found" an issue of that seriousness, I always brought the evidence to the Lead Developer, and said "Look, I found something interesting, looks like a serious bug to me..." sometimes I was right and sometimes I was wrong, but it was ALWAYS worth noting!!

Keep up the good work!

mnementh wrote:Mike -

Yes, that's what I said. For nominal brightness, we should be driving these at 10-15ma EACH with a VF of 3-3.4V. Right now, we're driving them at 2.2ma/2.667VF each on the Pro (with brightness at 100%).

The 9XR is driving the entire array at 55ma/3.007VF, (Actual measured current/VF) meaning each LED is driven at 11ma/3.007VF.


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

LOL.... well, I suppose... but as both TX are pretty stingy with the juice to begin with, I think we can spare the extra 40-ish ma for a readable display. :mrgreen:


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

Hey, Brent... looking at your diagram to do the BT Mod reminded me of something I meant to suggest when we were talking about the backlight thing over here.

The diagram shows the backlight as 2 LEDs in series; this actually threw me off when I was figuring out my dim backlight issue. Maybe for the sanity of future tinkerers like myself we could change that part of the diagram to reflect the actual backlight used in the 9XR/9XR Pro, which is 5 LEDs in parallel with no ballast resistors on the backlight itself?

That too is something that we may want to talk with the folks at Turnigy about; for a whole host of safety reasons due to the fact that LEDs are an active device and prone to internal open/short failure, it is common practice when building a parallel LED lighting array to have an individual ballast resistor for each LED. This would be a good idea for future product runs.


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by SkyNorth »

The pic was just to show the connection, but I will update it.
yes a separate resistor is better due to different forward voltage of each Led.

I will pass on your idea.

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

Thanks, Brent!

I'm working on a few very interesting Mods... unfortunately, parts are enroute on the "slow boat from China", so will likely be a month before I get to try any of 'em.

Still working on a suitable encoder; have a couple in this load of parts, but not sure they'll fly due to space restrictions... I really wish the Pro mainboard had some empty space on the RH side so I could cut some holes in it. :P


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

I just found some time to do a couple mods to my 9XR Pro.
-Install a Taranis slider on the Throttle side of the tx, replacing the pot P2.
-Install a rotary encoder where P2 was before.
-Install a HC-05 bluetooth module

Attached there is a zip file with all the pictures inside.

Slider:
I think the pictures give a pretty good idea of how I did it ;)

Rotary encoder:
I bought this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400531864873?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

This wasn't so easy as i didn't have a knob for the encoder and I also would like to use the original knob. So, I ended up using a prop saver, drill the hole to 6mm so the encoder's shaft fits inside. You have to be careful when drilling it to make sure the hole is straight, otherwise the knob will be at an angle :) Mine is :mrgreen: well, just a little :)
Then I cut the screw to be as small as possible when the shaft is secure, so it's head is close to the prop saver.
Then I made a hole on the side of the knob to allow for the head of the screw. Oh, before that I used the dremel to get rid of the plastic inside of the knob.
Next I pressed the prop saver inside the knob being careful to line up the screw hole with the hole on the knob. Cut the encoder's shaft to the right size.
I have soldered the encoder to a piece of strip board because it is easier to solder the wires.
The connections can be seen here:

viewtopic.php?f=122&t=5659

Please note that pin 4 from the encoder connector on the main board connects to the middle pin of the encoder and also to one of the 2 pins on the other side of the encoder which are the push button pins.

For this encoder you must set the divider in the firmware to 4, otherwise it will jump 4 lines on every click :)

Bluetooth:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161103516147?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Please refer to the diagram (link above) to connect your HC-05 bluetooth module to the 9XR Pro.
There is a pin on the module called "KEY" This must be connected to the "ERASE" pin on the tx. You can find it on the J9 connector (Bottom left in the diagram). The best place to solder is on the little PCB that has the SD Card holder and the USB connector. The ERASE pin is one of the 2 pins that are visible on the little PCB and it is easy to solder to. Please refer to the diagram. I do apologize that I forgot to take a picture from this connection :( but will do it next time I have to open the radio.

Well, I hope that this post is of some help to you guys..

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by SkyNorth »

Good idea on the prop saver , I tried to drill out the brass adapter ... and made a mess of it.
It really needs to be drilled in a lathe to keep the hole true to center.

someone with 3D printer could create a small plastic insert for the knob to would push over the "D" shaft
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

That is also a good idea..
I didn't drill the brass insert. I filed it to a D shape. It would work if the screw wasn't too high.. I will post a pic later.. but the prop saver worked better in my opinion..

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

Here is what I did to the brass insert but it didn't work
ImageImageImage
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by SkyNorth »

Yep ! thats the way mine ended up. :)

The encoder does not require to much force to operate , so it might be possible to fill the knob cavity with hot glue
and glue the knob on (it would still be removable if needed)
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

I thought about that but we would have to make sure e everything is straight. Is there a way of forming the shaft's shape in the glue without the shaft being glued? I might try that later with an old knob :)

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by SkyNorth »

How about a piece of fuel line. as a rubber bushing?
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

Hot glue, some oil on the encoder's shaft, keep it straight, let it cool down, pull it out, and voilá a knob that fits the encoder like a glove. Literally ;) :D
Just do the same with the radio's knob, but dremel it a bit inside. Maybe it's not even necessary, you decide ;)
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by michel49 »

I discovered a dangerous issue on my PRO: the 5 pin header is fitted on the wrong side of the pcb, that occur the pins protrude only 11mm instead 13mm and give random contact with the FrSky module, it is easy to have the leds shutting down just by slightly knocking it.
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

Picture please? :o
If that is true, you are right. It is dangerous..
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by SkyNorth »

it is most likely a hand assembly error , the person installed on the wrong side of the pcb..
QC should catch stuff like this.
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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

What QC? ;) Do you believe they have any? :) :P

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by MikeB »

I just measured the pin length on several 9X, PRO and Taranis transmitters. It varies between 11 and 14.5mm, including 11 on a 9X and 11.5 on the PRO.

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

I had similar variations on 3 different 9Xes. My 9XR wouldn't work at all with the ORX DSM2/DSMX module until I replaced the pin header with a 19mm set; the pins are now 14mm to the bottom of the JR bay, and my 9XR Pro's pins are 12mm.

As João said;

Image

"What QC" ?


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

João -

I have updated your "9XR Pro Hacks & Fixes" thread on RCG with all my current Hacks & Mods as I promised ages ago; would you like me to bring them over here complete as I've done there, or just post links back to my Blog?


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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by jhsa »

Yes of course you can.. ;)

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Re: 9XR-PRO Hacks and Fixes

Post by mnementh »

Okay... you asked for it. ;)

Comin' Atcha, buddy.


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Turnigy 9XR Pro Multi-Port Housing Mod

Post by mnementh »

There is an issue with the Multi-Port used in the Turnigy 9XR Pro, which I discovered when removing the main board to inspect my LCD.

The original 9XR had the Multi-Port housing made so that it pulls straight up away from the board for removal, allowing access to a screw underneath. The way my Pro is made the plastic molding traps the assembly under the power jack, and blocks access to one of the screw holes underneath. In the case of my TX, they omitted said screw in manufacture. I do not feel that 3 screws is adequate to retain the mainboard properly; the [EXIT] button is not firm as a result.

One has to remove the audio jack and disassemble the housing to remove it from the mainboard as it is; clearly this is not feasible with the board in the TX.

I've modded the Multi-Port Housing on my 9XR Pro to address this issue; details are shown below:

Image

Once completed, the Multi-Port assembly will easily slide around the power jack and pull straight up off the board while assembled in the TX. This makes for easy access to that 4th screw.

Hope this helps a few folks get this issue sorted,


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Turnigy 9XR Pro Dim LCD Backlight Fix

Post by mnementh »

NOTE: This mod contains material discussed earlier in this thread; I am including it here to consolidate my accumulated Mods up to this point into one block of material that is easily found.


After receiving my shiny new 9XR Pro and having some time to fiddle around with it, I found myself struck my how dim the LCD seemed; at first, I simply assumed it had the brightness turned down by default. Once I found the brightness control in the menu, I was very disappointed to find it was in fact at 100%.

Image

Side-by-side comparison* with my other Turnigy TX showed I wasn't mistaken; even my venerable old 9X was brighter, and the Pro was no where even CLOSE to the same crisp, bright display that was one of my favorite things about the 9XR.
*I know it's hard to see in this photo; but in real life, the difference is HUGE. This photo is the best of dozens I took trying to document the issue; evidently it is just one of those things that's very hard to photograph.

Questioning Mike & Brent revealed that the Pro uses the same LCD and Backlight array as current 9XR production; so clearly something else had to be at fault. A little poking around with my multimeter yielded an answer; there was something awry in the design of the LED Backlight power circuit.


Image

Location of R56 and Q3 - Backlight Control Circuit

The 9XR takes power direct from 12.6V battery voltage at the power switch; it drives the LCD backlight array at 55ma total through a 150Ω ballast resistor. It has 5 LEDs in parallel; dividing that current by 5 yields 11ma per LED.

The 9XR Pro takes it's power from the main 5V switching regulator; it drives the entire array at 11ma. 11ma/5 LEDs in parallel = 2.2ma per LED. THIS is the cause of the relatively dim LCD backlight. Due to some clerical error, there was a 200Ω ballast resistor used at R56 for the LCD Backlight; with the circuit taking power from a 5V source this value is REALLY off; it should be considerably LOWER resistance than the 9XR, not higher.

Doing some calculations for this panel using a 5V source with a typical 3.4V Forward Voltage for the LED, we come up with:

5V - 3.4V VF = 1.6V/0.055A =29.1Ω with a resistor PD of 0.09W. Closest standard resistor will be 33Ω 1/8W.

Based on this, I've done some real-world testing by replacing R56 in my with some standard resistors. Testing with my multimeter yields the following:

At 100% a 33Ω resistor yields 52.5ma total draw @ 2.94VF; this is 10.48ma/each LED. Calculated PD with 1.868 V dropped across R56 is 0.106W. This is pretty nominal compared to the 9XR, and appearance wise, it is so close to the same brightness that I can't tell the difference between the two.

At 100% a 22Ω resistor yields 67.4ma total draw @ 2.998VF; this is 13.48ma/each LED. Calculated PD with 1.625 V dropped across R56 is 0.121W. This is still well within typical max ratings of 20-25ma for these little SMD LEDs, and it is quite a bit brighter (and lighter shade of blue) than the stock 9XR; I have to turn it down to 75% to get the same perceived brightness. I LIKE it; I'm gonna keep it and report on how it holds up over the long run.


Image


1206 Size Resistor vs 0805 Size Comparison

Calculated PD says we should be able to use a 1/8W 0805 size SMD resistor, but it'll be right at the limits of its rating. However, due to a lucky fluke in the layout of the board, we can actually fit a 1206 size 1/4W resistor in there by soldering one end of it to the solder pad at the collector of Q3 and not have to make any modifications to the mainboard at all.

Alternately, one can use two 68Ω 0805 1/8W resistors stacked one on top of the other to get 34Ω; this will fit on the original R56 solder pads.


Image


9XR Pro with 22Ω 1206 Size 1/4W Resistor at R56

TL : DR Version:

My recommendation to those playing along at home would be to replace R56 with a 33Ω, 1206 size 1/4W resistor; this results in almost identical current draw and brightness to the tried and true original 9XR design, so should be similarly reliable. If you want to experiment with a brighter display, try a 27Ω or 22Ω 1206 size 1/4W resistor; that's what I'm using.


With this issue resolved, I'm loving my Pro again!



As always, thanks to Mike & Brent for bringing us this awesome TX; and especially for their assistance with technical specs while I wrangled with this issue!


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Last edited by mnementh on Tue Sep 02, 2014 5:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Turnigy 9XR Pro Speaker Mod

Post by mnementh »

Like the Taranis, the speaker on the 9XR Pro is somewhat anemic. This can be blamed on both the fact of using a small Mylar pancake speaker, and the fact of trying to use said speaker in "free-air" mode with no soundbox in front and no resonating chamber behind the diaphragm.

I'm working on a couple of Mods; this is my first one:

Image

This Mod is to build a sealed soundbox. I cut a 15mm wide strip of plastic from a Drink Mix box like so.

Image

Trim it to fit against the upper bulkhead of the TX and cut a notch out for the back of the [READY!] LED indicator, then commit some Hot Glue Abuse to seal it all in place. Also, remove the brace on the upper bulkhead for room for the speaker.

Image

Here I'm fitting my 40mm replacement speaker; you can use the original 36mm speaker the same way.

Image

A little reality check to make sure it will actually fit under the Trainer Port bracketry...

Image

...and more hot glue abuse to seal it in place. I tried this with both speakers sealed up this way; the stock speaker is about twice as loud and much clearer than before. The 40mm 8Ω 0.25W speaker is a little louder than the stock one, and the overall tone is better operating without a resonating chamber so I went with it. But for ZERO DOLLARS out of pocket, just doing this mod with the stock speaker is a HUGE improvement.

Image

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321307353026

Volume is now about 2.5x that of the stock arrangement. However, both speakers still sound "tinny"; this is a fact of life with Mylar speakers. I want better tonal quality, so next I'm going to try a 40mm x 28mm 4Ω speaker from this auction.

I expect to be able to build a small resonating chamber around it thanks to being able to set it lower inside the space; that should help greatly with overall sound quality. I'll update here once parts arrive.


Cheers! :p


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Turnigy 9XR Pro DIP Switch Mod

Post by mnementh »

9XR Pro DIP Switch Mod

So now you've got your shiny new 9XR or 9XR Pro, and you want to start adding goodies. Maybe a Bluetooth module, maybe you need to switch some inputs to something else, maybe you want to add a light or buzzer or thingamabob. But you need to be able to turn it on and off. Jumpers are too much hassle, but you don't really need to dedicate a switch on the front panel to it; what to do?

Image

This is a great job for an 8-position DIP switch in the Battery compartment. Common DIP Switches can carry current up to 500-1000mA ; this makes them great for enabling small loads and redirecting signals. A reminder: It is best to make sure you do NOT switch them under load; always change DIP Switches with the Radio OFF.

You will need:

1) 8-Position DIP Switch, "Piano-Style"

1) 16-Pin DIP Socket

2) Pieces of 3/16" (4.8mm) Square Plastruct 3/4 inches long; glued side x side to make spacer

1) Sharp X-Acto Knife and/or a Dremel tool

Epoxy

CA & Accelerant (Recommended but not absolutely necessary)

"NO FEAR!" Attitude towards sawing and cutting on the insides of your 9XR or 9XR Pro. :eek:

First, remove the back of your TX.

If you're not afraid to, remove the RF board and the speaker and the bracket it sits on. If you're planning to do a speaker Mod like the one I posted previously, now's a good time to get it all done at once. This job CAN be done with the bracket in the TX; it just means you need to be extra careful of the face of the TX because you are going to be sawing and cutting pretty hard. And making a big mess inside your TX that will need to be sucked out with a vacuum hose.

Image

First, cut out the area of the RF board bracket like so between the battery connector and the empty slot with a filler plate in it. DON'T cut away the material that supports the Battery Connector and Filler Plate. The highlighted area includes material I cut away before taking the picture; silly me. :rolleyes:

Image

Here is an overview of what we're making, and the unmolested RF Board bracket in my 9XR for comparison so you can see what needs to be cut.

Assemble the DIP SWitch into the socket, then bend the pins of the DIP Socket up around the outside as seen on both sides so the DIP Socket can lay on top of the spacer as shown.

Glue your two pieces of 3/16" Plastruct together as seen in the Epoxy Mixing tips photo below. 3/16" / 4.8mm thick is important; 1/4" thick will raise the assembly too high and a standard DIP Switch will interfere with closing the battery cover.

Image

Mock up with the spacer made out of Plastruct and make sure you've removed enough material that you can align your DIP switch and spacer as shown.

Image

Mix up a batch of epoxy approx the size of a nickel or quarter. I recommend gluing the Plastruct together beforehand with CA as seen here so it's one piece; but you CAN just work with them loose as you will be epoxying both top & bottom in place.
Epoxy the spacer to the RF Board bracket, then epoxy the DIP Socket with switch on top of that. You will be embedding a small portion of the pins of the DIP socket in the epoxy on top of the spacer; make sure not to cover the entire pin with epoxy or it will be very nasty-smoky when you go to solder your wires to the pins.

Image

Make sure you have the DIP switch aligned precisely as you mocked it up previously, then allow to cure. Here's that picture again, just to prevent any confusion. You need to get this right on; once it's in place you'll have approximately 1/8" (2-3mm) space behind the switch to route all your wires to the back pins.

Image

Here's what the back of the DIP Switch will look like when it's located properly. Note pins bent up around the DIP Socket here as well. Each pair of pins, front and back, corresponds to one switch. Dead-simple.

Image

Before you solder ANYTHING to the pins of the DIP Socket, unplug the DIP Switch by rocking one end slightly loose, then the other with a knife as seen here. The heat from hand-soldering can damage the switches internally, making contact intermittent. Do NOT attempt to pull it out by hand; the pins are typically made of hardened brass spring stock and you'll bend them, then when you go to straighten them they break off.

Image

Now you are ready to wire it up to your favorite gadget! Excellent!

Now go get your Dilbert on!

mnem
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mnementh
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Turnigy 9XR / 9XR Pro White LED Backlight Mod

Post by mnementh »

The name pretty much covers it; if you want to change the color of your 9XR/9XR Pro's LCD backlight, then you're in the right place.

You will need:

5) 3020 size BRIGHT WHITE LEDs, 3500mCD or higher

1) 1206 size 22Ω SMD Resistor (Or 2 0805 size resistors totaling 17-22Ω in series or parallel)


A decent, temperature-controlled soldering station with a 0.1mm fine tip

Very fine solder (I prefer Radio Shack # 64-035 0.015" Silver-Bearing Solder for this type of delicate work)

Fine-braid Solder-Wick or equivalent desoldering braid

An X-Acto Knife with a halfway decent # 11 blade

Some patience and a little technical ability.


First, we need to get some new LEDs. The ones I used came from this vendor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350349379262

No ePacket shipping, so they arrived in about 12-13 days.

Your other option is to go to eBay, type "3020 White LED" in the Search box and wade through the 7-10 pages of hits, looking for the one or five listings that AREN'T some sort of idiotic mood lighting for that kid with the saggy pants to put in his Hoopty.

If you want another color besides the ones in that listing, I'm afraid you're going to have to brave that tidal wave anyways. Sorry. ;)

Don't bother with the "Purple" ones; most of their emission is in the UV range. Unless you want to see that mustard stain on your shirt glow in the dark, they're useless as backlights.

Remember that different color LEDs have different Forward Voltage; this means you'll need to calculate different values for R56. You are calculating for a MAX forward current of 55-70mA total with a source voltage of 5V; that drives these LEDs at 11-14mA each. This leaves a little wiggle room for variations in the current draw of individual LEDs.

You can use the LED calculator here to help you: http://ledcalc.com/

Remember that the 9XR uses a source Voltage of 12.6V, while the 9XR Pro uses 5V. Treat the entire array as a single LED needing 55-80mA of current to drive it.

Plug in the Forward Voltage of the LEDs you are buying. Remember that the calculator will choose the next higher resistance standard value resistor; if that doesn't produce enough current, move to the next lower value and try again.

As a comparison, I'm driving Red LEDs in a similar array with a 33Ω ballast resistor at 5V, as well as Aqua Green and Blue ones with 22Ω resistors. These values produce very conservative current draws in the ranges shown above. Orange, Amber, Yellow and Pure Green LEDs will typically have forward voltages similar to the Red LEDs used above, so will probably need closer to the 33Ω ballast.

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$5.00 got me 50 pieces with shipping. These LEDs are pretty awesome; you'll find a use for the rest of 'em. ;)

For the sake of progress, we'll assume you're capable of removing the backlight without destroying your radio. If you aren't, ummm... sorry. This isn't a job for the timid or the completely non-tech-inclined.

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The backlight has a translucent side, and a nearly-opaque white side. The white side is the back.

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The back is held on with two thin strips of double-faced tape. Using the edge of a paring knife, start lifting the white plastic sheet at one of the corners on the edge with the LED strip. Be VERY CAREFUL handling the backlight so as not to scratch the front side; it is possible to scar it badly enough that you can see it through the LCD.

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Continue peeling back the white sheet ...

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...and now the LED strip can be seen.

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On my 9XR, the LED strip just slid into this slot at each end of the backlight lens. On my 9XR Pro, they had CA (Superglue) to hold it in place. By repeatedly gently pulling the LED strip away from, then pressing it back down on the lens at about 3/4" (20mm) from each end, you can break the CA loose, then slide the LED strip free.

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And here's the LED strip out of the lens. Note that polarity is marked at each LED. Maybe they were expecting us...

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By applying heat with the tip of a soldering iron, you can slip the tip onf an X-Acto knife under the solder joint; lift up just enough to separate the solder from the LED. Repeat on the other side and the LED will fall off.

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Touch up the pads with a little desoldering braid to get them ready.

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Now it's pretty simple; just hold the LEDs in place and tack the solder tabs to the pads on the LED strip. Note that the notch denotes Cathode (-) tab on LED.

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Once you have them all tacked down, go back over with a cleaned iron tip and fresh solder, making sure the LEDs are all straight.

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While you have everything apart, I suggest unsoldering the leads from the LED strip and adding a little heat shrink tubing...

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... you'll need to put a little "pre-curve" into the leads & heat-shrink while it's still hot so everything still plugs in as it should.

If you're working on a 9XR the OEM ballast resistor is pretty close to nominal value already, as the LEDs are driven from full battery voltage. It drives these LEDs at 55mA total, or approx 11mA each. You can move onto reassembling your backlight and testing.

If you have a 9XR Pro, there's a little extra work you'll need to do...

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These LEDs have a slightly higher Forward Voltage than the original Blue LEDs; if you haven't already done my "9XR Pro Dim LED Backlight Mod", you'll need to now.

On the stock 200Ω ballast resistor at R56, these will barely light up at all. You'll need 17-22Ω at 1/4W to bring these up to full brightness at 65-80ma for the total array. The closer to 17Ω you get, the brighter Max brightness will be.

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Bridge both ends of R56 with a blob of solder and just wipe it off the pads with the tip of your iron.

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Here's a comparison between the original 1/8W 0805 size resistor and a 1/4W 1206 size 33Ω resistor. As you can see, the 1206 size resistor will fit if we solder one end of it to the pad at the top of Q3. PD here is right on the edge of 1/8W so we really need to have 1/4W of ballast resistor; hence the bump up to 1206 size.

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I later switched over to the 22Ω resistor seen here for my OEM Blue Backlight; it drives that at about 14ma per LED. It drives these at 10-11ma each; right about the same brightness as the original 9XR backlight.

I subbed a 17Ω resistor for testing here and it drove these at approx 14mA each; the backlight looks a little less grey and noticeably brighter.

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Time to test! Dang those are bright!

But after running over 30 minutes, still room temperature. Excellent! Time to reassemble everything!

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Here's some screen shots of the new brighter, whiter LCD! w00t!

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With the White LEDs, the LCD looks a bit better with Contrast cranked up to 25; Other colors will look better at different contrast settings.

Well, that pretty much covers it. Now you know how to put pretty much any color LED you want in the backlight of your 9XR/9XR Pro!

Good Luck!

mnem
Keep Moving Forward.

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