Gen 1 Board Fryed Resistor Fix

[RCPlaneHobby.com]

And the Lord looked down upon the fruit of davey's labor and saw that it was good.

Here's what I did. (sorry about the picture size, just go to the pic's url where it is hosted to see the full size)

I scraped off the green from the trace that goes between pin 11 and the resistor so the trace was exposed.


Then I tinned it.


Next I stripped the insulation off the middle of the wire and tinned that.


- I soldered that to the trace and then hot glued it in place.


I tinned one lead of the resistor and wire and soldered them together (crappy I know)


Then I shrink wrapped that connection.


I cut the other lead of the resistor to size and tinned it, then hot glued it in position


Then soldered it to the menu button lead


Next I stripped and tinned the other end of the wire and soldered it to the sck hole in the spboard.


Finished


And behold; it worked.

[GrootWitbaas]

Nice, glad it is all working again for you. Now you have some nice soldering experience gained

One thing, you should insulate the open part of the resistor (marked in blue), or put the leg in line with the track where you have soldered it (marked in orange)
this is only to avoid a possible short circuit

Groot

[RCPlaneHobby.com]

good idea
i'm gonna take care of that now.
thanks

[acklenx]

I just did this fix and it worked great. Thanks for the post!

[chech]

Any chance to get back the original images? google cache didn't work and I can't figure out the explanations without the images

[Flaps 30]

Seems like the site that the images were on is no longer an active one.. Sorry.. I cannot help here.

[chech]

NVM, seems like I had little choice, so after breaking the internal resistor I did what I could with my noob skills to solve the problem or burn the whole Tx, whatever came first (I nearly achieved the second with my gas solder, the "hot air" output burnt some cable covers which also had to be fixed).

In the image below you can see the final soldering I did. Didn't have any 200 ohm resistors (198 ohm was the exact measurement of most resistances, I measured them all!), so I put various resistors in parallel until I achieved 214 ohm. Tested before soldering and the menu button came back to live, so I soldered and closed the case, forever I hope!

I soldered directly to the smartieparts board because it's bigger (hence easier) to solder and there where less chances for me to burn anything else.



Hope it helps someone! also, the programming didn't work for me either. Before closing cleaned the contacts with alcohol as my Tx board had a thin sticky layer all over it. Not sure if it was the resistor or the cleaning, but after doing both everything works like a charm

[jhsa]

GAS SOLDER??
You're a lucky man for having a working radio

Joao