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No... I really liked Giant Shark. Have purchased from them a few times over the years and the latest was my Taranis Gimbals from them in April. £23 shipped to Sweden for a pair which was the best price I found.


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Great product! I now enjoy audio feedback.

Just a heads up if you're using a Smartieparts board with revision 2.1 like I am. You need to isolate the pogo pin marked VDD or you won't get any voice feedback.


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[RESOLVED] Mike, you were correct! Thank you! :D I did some measuring and one pin gave me 5v and the other two 0v. After rewiring I had 5v and 2.6v with the sticks centered. I also have full range in all directions and calibration went fine. Where I went wrong was when I looked at the wires and whi...

Thank you very much for your help so far Mike. I'll swap the wires and check the voltages. Will also post the results when done.

Center A1: 00B2 0 A2: 00E4 -5 A3: 00D0 2 A4: 00E0 9 Up: A2: 00210 73 A3: 0028E 81 Down: A2: 0072 -95 A3: 0098 -41 Left: A1: 0088 -47 A4: 0088 -27 Right: A1: 02F8 81 A4: 00312 95 Hopefully I understood your request correctly Mike. All values varies ever so little but that may be expected? Could it be...

I've installed OpenTX just to be sure it wasn't something in the firmware that was messing with the sticks. It's a boring video and my cheap Chinese cam doesn't handle indoor lightning very well so apologies for the poor quality. It does however show the problem quite well. [BBvideo 425,350]http://y...

Mike: I've actually loaded a fresh FW and not restored my models. I can of course create a new model and see what happens.

Yup, done it several times. I'll make a video when I get home to show the entire process and results.

Hi everyone and thanks to all that's been modding this transmitter! One of my gimbals failed and I opted for the Taranis ones. Install was a breeze but I can't get proper stick movement, even after calibration. Hardware mods: backlight, audio (the first version to surface), haptic feedback, the 7805...

Please post here when you have a card available. I'd be very grateful

There's an alternative way of connection the FET to the radio if you want to ditch the extra harness: http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=211&start=150#p16632 I managed to do a short in a similar way and like in your case the only damage to the radio was the burnt trace on the...

Great summary

I have a Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 3G and very pleased with it. Gingerbread ROMs have been so-so IMO but I am currrently running an AOKP ICS based rom and the tab is blazing fast. Samsung is expected to release the official ICS in July. The current ICS roms are all based on CM9 afaik. I use mine for g...

I'd be interested in buying this board. I love how easy the SP board installation was and would like that for a telemetry enabler (or what to call it) as well. I can solder and follow instructions but having hassle free and time saving solutions trumps cost (to a certain level), for me. Already have...

The two images show two different boards. Open your TX and check which version of the board you have and do the mod that corresponds to your board layout.

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+1 Crucial

AETR seem to be the channel assignment in the stock firmware.

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=833

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Because the original SC 8050 D331 pin out isn't Pin 1= Emitter Pin 2= Base Pin 3= Collector It is infact: Pin 1= Emitter Pin 2= Collector Pin 3= Base So the info I found was incorrect or rather not for that specific transistor. Shifting the BC337 on step to the right placed the collector and base in...

You were absolutely correct gohstbb! Shifting the BC337 one hole to the right and re-routing the emitter worked perfectly. Thank you VERY much for your help and patience! My buzzer is now functioning again and with er9x I can select when to hear it.

This is the pin out for the SC 8050 D311 (if my source is correct) and with the flat side of the transistor facing yourself: Pin 1= Emitter Pin 2= Base Pin 3= Collector This is the pin out for the BC337: Pin 1=Collector Pin 2=Base Pin 3=Emitter I can only find a spec for S8050 or SS8050 but both of ...

To use the one you have now, looking at it from the front like it is in your picture above. The center pin is the base. You need to shift it right one set of holes. Then the rightmost pin needs to be bent around and connected to the far left hole. And the other guys are absolutly correct, NPN PNP i...

Thanks for the clarification Kilrah I studied electronics in school but that's over 20 years ago now. I guess I've forgotten more than I thought..

Thanks for your help ghosthb :) But what's confusing me is that the info I've managed to find on the SC 8050 D311 tells me it's a an NPN transistor. And the BC337-25 is a NPN transistor as well. Does the pin out differ within the respective class (NPN/PNP)? If the 8050 is indeed a PNP transistor I c...

Ok, here's a few pics of my board. Click for larger versions: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d-lbMQOf-6o/T6laGd8NdDI/AAAAAAAABRI/cACx06GbgcU/s640/DSC_0411.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yfv2wwmrYW4/T6laPYinXuI/AAAAAAAABRQ/GMFPig42Z3E/s640/DSC_0412.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...

Well, the short I created was with the probe of my multimeter and as far as I can tell there are no visible damages to any components. Other than that I just de-soldered the two transistors and the buzzer. The board looks lie this one: http://openrcforums.com/wiki/index.php/ ... ModAlt.jpg

Hi I managed to create a short on the power switch board (with the buzzer on it) on my Eurgle 9x v2 (or v3 as they call it). I think I shorted the main feed to the voltage regulator 78L05. I've replaced it with a new one and since the SC 8050 D311 was powering the buzzer even after I replaced the vo...