openrcforums

My 9x is on order so I'm a real noobey on this stuff...excuse my ignorance, please.
S_mack programmer also on order.

I've seen a few posts on DSM.
Is there a URL to look at for how to put a JS/Spektrum board into the 9x system?

I have quite a few DSM receivers and would like to be able to use them with the flexibility of er9X and eepe.

If not JR/Spektrum board, what are the options and how to get started?

Thanks,
Dean

Hi Dean, and welcome. Her is a start for reading.... I am going to request a compilation post because there is a lot of info and updates after this post.

Good start here though. Basically, you just remove the module from one of those cheap toy looking remotes that you get with a rtf ______ product whatever, blade chopper, or other spektrum product, and make some hardware mods to link it to the board on your 9x.

This is just a start, someone else can help more. Like Rob, for example, he has this hardware mod, (Rob, I cant find it over here on the new one....? I know there is a large firmware develpement, but I don't see the hardware instructions here)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... ount=13468

hope that helps.

Hey Dean, I have a atmx10 installed in my Turnigy, I removed the stock module. It's fairly easy and here are the links to get it done..

Spektrum MLP4DSM Install

Hacksmod also has other useful information.

Er9x google page issue 330

The above link is the link we discussed issues and have resolutions for problems people encounter.

Cheers.

Here is a guide I put together a while back:

http://er9x.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/do ... 0Guide.pdf

Is there a "better" module to use for this mod? Something with the "best" range or most channels?

Use a High power module.

atmx11 from a dx4e I do believe is a Hp module. My atmx10 is too. Max channels is 6 with these. Obtaining these modules is cheap, relative to buying a dx7 or dx6. Usually between $20-50 is the cost for a radio you can butcher to get the modules.

If you do use a high power module, it needs to have its own 3.3v supply, If you draw it from the board, you will get brown outs and possibly damage your radio.

Are you guys using the stock antenna location for the HP applications or attaching another external to the radio? I thought I remember reading that the low power modules have the antenna built into the module.

I replaced the stock antenna with the one that came with the hp module (totally removed the stock rear module, it's now an empty case for now). The lp modules also have an external antenna connector.

Great going everyone, I've got enough reading to keep me busy for a while now.

I'm having a hard time waiting for all my gear to arrive and get going on the er9x.

The flexibility and power of er9x and eepe make my JR9303 (which seems to have an intermittent loss of signal...or a DMBTHMB user problem. I thinks its really a GOI problem) seem like a cheap toy.

Thanks Dean

GOI = Gross Operator Incompetence.

Just wondering, what is the purpose of the 4k7 Resistor between signal and 3.3v. I know the diode is used to pull the 5v ppm signal down to 3.3v. How ever I don't understand the purpose of the 4k7 resistor between ppm and v+ and have no luck in finding info to it's purpose.

Added a pull up resistor and it works fine and showed no signs of interference from handling the wires.

So I would suggest that the reversed diode with a pull up is better than the forward LED.

See the original post with schematic here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... ount=13821

KrzyInuYasha wrote:Just wondering, what is the purpose of the 4k7 Resistor between signal and 3.3v. I know the diode is used to pull the 5v ppm signal down to 3.3v. How ever I don't understand the purpose of the 4k7 resistor between ppm and v+ and have no luck in finding info to it's purpose.

If there is already a pull up resistor on the module (or the controller has been configured with internal ones) then it might not be needed, but putting it in is easy and ensures you have good waveforms feeding the module.
As I said in the post on RCG, my particular module did not work at all without it, while others report that it did.

And FWIW, the diode is there to pull the signal down to "0" when the PPM from the 9X is pulled low. (It doesn't get to zero volts because of the forward voltage drop of the diode, but close enough for the micro to read "0")
When the 9X PPM signal goes up to 5 volts the diode in effect isolates it from the module and the 4K7 resistor is there to pull the modules input up to 3.3 volts.

Pat MacKenzie

I have a 9x on the way. My plan is to remove the TX board from my blade mcx2 rtf TX and put it in the 9x with the firmware mod. I have the programmer on the way as well. I only plan to use dsm2 for micros, so the low power TX doesn't bother me. The receivers are so reasonably priced for the 9x, I don't see any need for the more expensive dsm stuff. any flaws in my plan to be aware of? I love tinkering with electronics, so soldering in the programmer is fun for me, as well as hacking the software..

Is there a us source for just a backlight kit? I can add one to my next hk order, but would prefer to put it in while I do the programmer..

Can the setup I detailed control more channels than the donor TX would be able to on dsm2? I would like to use the setup for cp helis which would need 5 or 6 channels..

What you are planning will work - no problems

I would suggest you follow this guide:

http://er9x.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/do ... 0Guide.pdf

I believe you will get 6 channels using this module.

You can actually achieve this mod by leaving the antenna inside the tx, and hooking it do you can use the stock module and dsm2 at the same time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^ beat me by bare seconds.. okay, I'm sick and had to fix all my typos... that took 5mins...

That's basically what I did. (I use the hp versions though, need longer range)

Just follow the guides posted and you on't have any issues. With the lp4 modules you will get 6 channels. You also wont' need to do the seperate 3.3 source like you do with any of the high powered modules.

If you feel up to it, you could remove the stock tx board from the module, and install your dsm tx module in there, keeping the space inside your tx free. (mine is inside the tx)

As for a backlight kit. Make one. Seriously. All you need is a thin piece of plastic, some tin foil and a two leds (or more with resistors) I use the flat leds, they are square , a little more pricey, but easier to use in the long run (or dremel flat standard les) Piece of white paper on the back to reflect light, tin foil around the edges to also reflect light, and voila, a DIY led backlight, add a potentionmeter to adjust brightess, or a different resistors and you're done. (the stock Hobby King boards are a little bright, I added a 1k resistor to them, and they are just perfect, a little brighter than the stock Smartie parts board, not much, just slightly)

Thanks for the tips! Now to not so patiently wait for the 9x to arrive.

ok on the note of needing a 3.3v supply for the hp boards does that need to be seperate from the radio's power source? or can i make a circuit to make the 3.3v from the 5v on the module pins?

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=180

Discussed here already... time to work on that sticky I said I would...

ok i should have elaborated
im not using a ubec nor do i want to (way too bulky)
im proposing that i use one of the many 3.3v LDO regulators i have in my collection of parts
and connecting it to the 5v pin on the module interface (the space where the stock tx module goes)
and gutting the stock module to put the dsm module in

That's where my module sits now. Bulky? the Ubec I use is half the size of the module.

I posted those so you can discover that you can run it off 5v, or the battery , your choice. If you look at the haptic/speaker mod it clearly show you here you can draw the 5v or battery, and it mentions that you may want to add a cap to help the system out a little that;s it.

All the information anyone would ever want is around. Reading the links thoroughly will give anyone the answers they seek.

power reg hookup vcc to +5 , that's it.

Cheers.

ok i misunderstood you then i thought that you meant to not use any internal radio circuit for the power source
i guess thats what was confusing me
btw you wouldnt know how much the module draws power wise do you? as i saw that that power "point" shouldnt go above 100ma

It's all good.

Atmx10 is 200 ma transmit
1ma idle, and 22ma receive current. I only have
The data sheet on it, so, hoping the atmx11 is similar.


Atmx10 is the one i am using.

Mechcondrid wrote:ok i should have elaborated
im not using a ubec nor do i want to (way too bulky)
im proposing that i use one of the many 3.3v LDO regulators i have in my collection of parts
and connecting it to the 5v pin on the module interface (the space where the stock tx module goes)
and gutting the stock module to put the dsm module in

That is how I did mine, everything connected to the module pins. I used the connector and housing from an old 72.320 FM module.

Pat MacKenzie

Ok then will the 200mah regulator that i have be enough?

If you are done with the "donor" transmitter you could borrow the regulator from it
I used a ~1 amp TO220 case one, but mainly because that is what I had sitting around.

Pat MacKenzie

Ya was thinking about that but I couldn't identify the spec of that regulator I'll try using that then
I've got like 3 three of the rtf txs so if something faill I have at least a couple spares

Sigh....

Do NOT apply 5V to the TX module... It doesn't like that....

I was bench testing the module as it didn't work in the radio... connected to the wrong binding post.. pfffttt...

Waiting for new a new TX to come in to butcher. lol... er9x installed easy though. Attached the USBASP inside the box, and soldered the wires. V1 board, so the SP board would have required soldering anyway. I built a 3.3V reg so I don't need a wire to the mainboard. I hate having more wires connecting the halves. The hardest part there was routing the ribbon cable so it doesn't cause one of the sticks to drag on it. Overall, digging on my first computerized radio though.

I also found that the plastic antenna shell from the little RTF controllers fits nicely in where the rubber plug was... so the antenna can stick above the tx... not that I imagine it matters.

One thing I managed to do though, opening and closing the case over and over is strip the plastic where the screws attach. Any good fixes for that?

ttabbal wrote:
I also found that the plastic antenna shell from the little RTF controllers fits nicely in where the rubber plug was... so the antenna can stick above the tx... not that I imagine it matters.

Can you send me a pick of that?

ttabbal wrote: One thing I managed to do though, opening and closing the case over and over is strip the plastic where the screws attach. Any good fixes for that?

I have done this on a few radios

Only sure fix I have had is a drop of slow cyno in the hole before you put the screw in!

It is brittle enough that you can break it open with a sharp screwdriver twist.

Only other option is a thicker gauge screw.

Rob

I just sourced a hobby zone champ RTF radio so I have an X10EMTX rf board I can use as a donor. This looks like the same one used in Rob's tutorial. Is this one of the low power modules? If so is there a known range limit on these? Also, I see that the er9x model menu has a DSM2 protocol selection. I take it this is all that is required when using a model that connects to the newly installed RF board?

I looked at using the RTF Tx antenna tube in the stock radio and it looks like the antenna is a tight fit but will slide into the stock antenna spot perfectly. I didn't shove it all the way in in the pic since that was one of my parts radios and I didn't want to have to try and pull it back out. I doubt it would need any glue to hold it in.

Rob Thomson wrote:

ttabbal wrote:
I also found that the plastic antenna shell from the little RTF controllers fits nicely in where the rubber plug was... so the antenna can stick above the tx... not that I imagine it matters.

Can you send me a pick of that?

Sure... I'll get one too you soon.

Rob Thomson wrote:

ttabbal wrote: One thing I managed to do though, opening and closing the case over and over is strip the plastic where the screws attach. Any good fixes for that?

I have done this on a few radios

Only sure fix I have had is a drop of slow cyno in the hole before you put the screw in!

It is brittle enough that you can break it open with a sharp screwdriver twist.

Only other option is a thicker gauge screw.

Yeah... I thought that might be the case. Owell... I won't have to open it up much after I get the DSM module installed.