S1 pot doesn't center to "0"

[monton]

True story...

I've worked in the service/sales field for 35+ years now and had thought I'd seen it all.... not

A high dollar and high profile player within a customer base would once every 2-3 weeks bring his radio in saying something was wrong, it didn't work right all the time. By strike three we replaced it with a brand new in the box product and out the for door he goes.

You guessed it... He was back again the next month with all the same complaints. Again we go through everything with a fine tooth comb looking for anything wrong. Hot/cold stress tests, signal/ noise ratios and even retraced the areas where he said these issues would arise thinking maybe there really is a manufacturing issue .... and yet nothing. Again we sent him on his way with another entirely new radio/battery/antenna.

Another three weeks passed and again he's back at our door... this radio is junk.

This time I went out on my own and purchase a brand new competitors product, had it provisioned and ready to run. I took back his junk radio and sent him home.

Five days pass and he brings this one in and complained I gave him an inferior product in place of the one he had and wanted his original radio back. I simply told him to look at the label... We don't service this product and would need to go to this other manufacturer for service. I had purchased this product on my own dime because my product was deemed as junk and obviously wasn't going to fulfill your needs.

Now take all this labor and time chasing a ghost not to mention I now have three perfectly flawless radios that I cannot put back into service again (quality control things) and the amount of exasperation everyone worked through for just one customer.

THIS is how product costs begin to climb within its own life cycle and take unnecessary hits from bad press. There was nothing wrong with it in the first place and even spoon feeding someone into a competitors product was still not good enough.

I've followed this thread long enough to draw a correlation to this story. The guys here in this thread have gone beyond the distance to help.... and it ain't working. Deal with it or move on to complain about the next one you try.

[jhsa]

This is why I went back and deleted the inflammatory content in my related post in the 9XrPro Hacks thread; it was not a matter of the point being invalid, it was because I was very angry when I posted it and I was downright rude & nasty.


I'm going to wait until I get some official answer from the folks at Aloft. Until then, hashing this out again for the umpteenth time will probably only result in folks getting angry and rude & nasty, just like I did. I don't want to be that person. Again.


mnem
*Namaste*

No please, that never happens on this forum and I hope it won't start now.. This is a friendly place to be and problems are sorted without people being nasty.. Lets keep the high level we all friendly people have here... PLEASE..

João

[Kilrah]

otherwise this issue wouldn't be the cornerstone of the next major upgrade.

That's your own feeling about it as you're not happy with it. It's in no way a "cornerstone", just one of many minor improvements that were possible and proceed to be implemented like sliders, pots, audio etc.
Again the current LCD might not be the most beautiful in the world, but it does its job perfectly and that's all we (well, everybody except you apparently) ask from it.

The reason these displays suck bunge is because they're trying to use super-cheap LCDs with a reflective (designed for ambient light only) polarizing backing and make them serve as a more expensive transflective (ambient light and backlit) LCD by putting a cobbled-together LED illuminated backlight behind them

Not at all. The LCD badly handles grayscale because... it was never meant to display grayscales in the first place. The controller supports it, but the panel is monochrome spec.

We as opentx programmers, following a suggestion that if I remember well came from myself, had a try at displaying grayscales anyway without guidance either towards or against it, and found it brought something useful without looking "too crud", ie the balance was favorable so the decision was made to keep it for production. The vast majority of other people who enjoy making and using 16-gray splashes and model images even if they bleed a bit seem to agree.

Now build yourself a version of OpenTX with grayscales disabled, ie what the panel is made for, and it will look perfect with no bleeding, even with the "cobbled together backlight on a screen that according to your uninformed thoughts is not made for it".

Seeing the interest of people for the grayscale display, frsky now did an awesome job of getting their manufacturer to design and produce a custom panel that handles that well, and that's what will be in the plus. That took about a year to get, but now it's going to be there.

So you can keep your insulting comments to yourself, return your Taranis and go get yourself a DX6. If you have to "try to love" something you're doing no good neither to yourself nor to anybody else who has to put up with your ranting.

The power of the Taranis is in its capabilities, not in a shiny LCD. If a DX6 does enough for you then there's no reason for you to force yourself to put up with a Taranis.

Sent via mobile

[bertrand35]

Hmmm the DX6 ... someone in my club sells his one, as he again crashed a plane yesterday morning, another loss of control...
When he saw mine which was telling me the temperature of the motor, temperature of the controler, motor speed etc. he asked me for the price and decided to buy one the same day

[MikeB]

I haven't bothered with the grey scale on ersky9x for Taranis, so you could just load that to see what the display is like in black and white.
When I got the first development Taranis, I tried the grey scales, and didn't like the result, so I recommended just using 4 levels, and that is what we started with.

Mike.

[bertrand35]

Yes 4 levels, the 12 others are duplicate of one of these 4... But the problem is with the other pixels, if some are gray in a column, the others (of the same column) have a different grayscale as well, that's really better on the Taranis+

[mnementh]

Kilrah, I meant no insult to the Taranis, the product, or the hard work you folks have all put into it. I have been proselytizing the virtues of the Open Source Transmitter Ecology since the days of the 9X. I still believe it is a better way.

I have researched and sourced LCDs in a commercial engineering setting, and I know what I got from engineering samples and R&D and what we finally ended up buying to put in the product. Admittedly, this was almost 20 years ago, but then again, LCDs are an almost 50 year old technology. The biggest change is that now the controller is part of the LCD itself in most cases. I know from that experience that most purpose-built transflective LCDs are produced with a backlight that aligns the light source correctly for the polarization of the LCD itself and the polarizing filters, and that the contrast level is much higher because the light only passes through the nematic element once, as opposed to twice for reflective LCDs. The end result appeared very much the same as I've observed in the Taranis and numerous other similar displays.

The point of all that technobabble is that my opinion is not exactly uninformed. I will concede that I may not have known all the details for this fault, but I still believe my knowledge is "above average" and that I know enough to judge whether a display is good or bad. It still hardly seems a "minor revision" if it involves a different mainboard, backlight and LCD.

I apologize again for my unintended insult.

If the issue was trying to make the LCD do something it's not meant to do, then that too is a fault that needed to be addressed. Before we get excited about the bells and whistles, the fundamentals need to be right. And for all the going back and forth, the display is not right, and that is a fundamental thing on any computer device.

It hurts my eyes, like the display on my 9X used to do. I used to dread having to program a new model or make adjustments to my 9X at the field because of how it bothered my eyes to look at the screen, and no amount of adjusting made it good. I am unwilling to go back to that. This was never the case with my 9XR; it has always been brilliant and crisp and clear. No matter how much monton may want to marginalize me personally, this is not imagined; others have also made similar observations about the display on the Taranis.

The difference in opinion is in how important it is overall, not whether a fault exists. I clearly feel it is more important than many others here. I have the right to feel that way.

Under any circumstances, my issue has been resolved; Wayne at Aloft is taking care of it and I eagerly await the PLUS when it comes out. My late-production Taranis is going back in tomorrow's post. Some lucky fellow who is not as sensitive to the LCD as I will no doubt be very happy with it.

Thank you all for your supportive response,


mnem

[AxelS]

Not sure if this is the right place for pot calibration issue
anyway
I have replaced the pots in my rev. B taranis with the ones that have the center detent.
Problem is , I cannot get them calibrated .
I have switched the pot type in radio setup to "Pot with detent", but range of the pot is almost double as what can be used.
Running 2.0.8 firmware
I have attached a log, the flat parts at +/- 1000 are the not used rotation range of the pots

Axel

[Kilrah]

Which pot did you take? There are 2 types, one having reduced range for use as lateral sliders.

Sent via mobile

[AxelS]

Hi Kilrah,
I ordered these

http://www.intermodel.fr/pieces-taranis ... s=&icn=151

Axel (aka Axel_S from RCG)

[AxelS]

In the meantime, I measured resistamce of both types, they have 5 kohms.
I tried to calibrate with the no detent setting in the TX, no joy
So for the time being, I reinstalled the original pots.

[Kilrah]

You likely got sent wrong pots. The slider ones also have 5kOhm resistance but the resistive track is only 45°, anything beyond it causes no more "electrical" movement just like you see.

[ShowMaster]

The resistance may be 5k but what about the resistance swing from center to both ends of the pots? Maybe compare the degrees of change per rotation off center for both versions pots? It does seem to indicate the rotation vs change is different as Kilrah posted.