Search for Replacement 9x Potentiometers!

[volumax]

no, there is a screw that you tighten if you want it for throttle and then you tighten the ratchet or tension so it will stay where you put it. I really like the feel of the gimbals, its not something out of this world but if you have used a t9x for a while you can definitely tell its better than stock, also flying on the SIM I felt much much better control.

[kaos]

thx for the info.

[bob195558]

HI

The new replacement Taranis Gimbals from the FrSky are a really great upgrade mod and/or fix for bad 9x Potentiometers.

How to install the New Taranis Replacement Gimbals into your 9x Radio, Click this link: (http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic ... 1&start=90).

Info note: Both the Taranis Gimbals and the Stock 9x Radio Gimbals have a total 55 degrees of Gimbal Stick Movement which is 27.5 degrees from Center Stick.

[bob195558]

Comment about a small problem with the newest Taranis Throttle Gimbal:

Hi Everyone,

Received new Taranis X9D Radio from Aloft Hobbies and there was a small problem with the Throttle Gimbal.
The throttle stick was not staying all the way down in the off throttle position.
When booting up the Taranis X9D Radio it would always give a THROTTLE WARNING (Throttle not idle / Press any key to skip).
When I investigated the problem, I found that the Spring-Return was not fully render inoperative.
Even though the Spring-Return Disabling Phillip-Screw was seated all the way down, it was not long enough to fully render the Spring-Return inoperative.
To render the problem, I removed the Spring-Return Disabling Phillip-Screw and used my Black & Decker Dremel with a small Grinding Stone
to remove about .062 inches of the Gimbals Disabling Phillip-Screw seating surface.
This allowed the Disabling Phillip-Screw to render the Spring-Return to be fully inoperative.

Bob

[bob195558]

Add Photo of Throttle Spring-Return Disabling Phillip-Screw no the new Version-B Taranis Gimbals:

Spring-Return Disabling Phillip-Screw
Version-B Taranis Gimbals:

[LTMNO]

If anyone needs them, I have 5x Turnigy 9X Gimbals, with all the Potentiometers functioning....
They were never used for flying.. just in the radio for testing software.

[bob195558]

Taranis X9D fix Throttle Gimbals Problem (Version-B) Update

Hi

Go to: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=4281&start=240#p73774) for more information and view photo.

Bob B.

[blainewest]

Okay, fixed my throttle problem. After much research I learned that the throttle issues have been experienced by several others. Product support seems lacking and the culprit is the throttle gimbal potentiometer. Apparently the pot is unavailable as a drop in replacement (b502 60 degree). So I took mine apart and found that one of the sprung contact points (the one closest to the centre of the pot) was broken or gapped. Didn't know if this was factory or not but it seemed strange to me. So I soldered the two together, buttoned it up and voila, throttle works as it should. Attached is photo of what I'm referring to. After having read this thread I'm not so sure now that the separation of the inner contact points was the problem because I think I can see in photos in this thread that these contact arms are gapped. Could someone please confirm? If the gap wasn't the problem with mine it could have simply been poor contact. I did push all contact arms out a bit before I reassembled the pot. What do the experts think? I can tell you that the wafer disc did not look worn or burned at all.... Looked new in fact.
Will try and post pics.... My first post here so I don't know how yet.

[bob195558]

Hi blainewest,
If the problem returns, you may want to purchase two sets of Taranis Gimbals to replace your Stock 9x Gimbals.
This will make your 9x Radio more reliable. (http://www.alofthobbies.com/taranis-gimbal.html)

There are other fix upgrades that you may want to consider in order to make your 9x Radio more reliable, like:

1) 5V regulator upgrade: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=3819&start=30#p70693).

2) Horizontal Trims Rebooting Radio fix: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=3594&start=120#p69475).

Bob B.

[bob195558]

Most of the time where the stock 9x throttle pot fails is where the resistant element surface has the crimp connection to it.
Resqueezing this crimp connection may fix your problem and/or temporally fixing the problem.

[ShowMaster]

The recrimping of the element eyelets usually is my fix, discovered several years ago. The condition usually comes form moving the pot PC board the pot wires solder to. The leverage exerted on the board outs a lot if pressure on the pot element eyelets. No silver conductive paint was used to bind the eyelet crimp to the carbon element.
I've also ordered new sticks with pots and trims as replacement parts. It's been awhile but never had trouble ordering them.
Where are you located? Tapatalk doesn't display that info and it's never added to the user profile.
SM

[ShowMaster]

There is this pot discussion going on.

viewtopic.php?t=4281

[handsomejackuk]

just browsing through this and bought a 9xr mode 1 as mode 2 was not available in u.k at the time of ordering. having completed mode1 to mode2 conversion by just altering the gimbal hardware i.e. removing the spring, and friction device and swapping, i do seem to have an issue with the pitch / elevator not consistently returning to 1500 and is out by about 20- 25 steps i have calibrate the sticks.... could this be due to the pots on a mode 1 and 2 being of different value and do the pots need changing too....?

[jhsa]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oic2bc ... freload=10

João

[handsomejackuk]

i have done what that man says above but the issue is surely with the value of the throttle pot being different to the other 3 so by doing that mode, you effectively are moving the throttle pot to the elevator / pitch channel. i think this is why i have inconsistent values on my elevator, and my throttle pot position is never centred... please advise..

[KAL]

I did the same mod a few days ago, 'cause european warehouse had only mode 1 in stock.
No issues with the pots. Centre of elevator is not exact (varies between +0,3% and -0,3%)
but that's a mechanical problem with centering mechanism.

Klaus

[handsomejackuk]

i just thought that if the pots were changed that maybe this could be solved, i did try them with the back off.. and they did seem to perform better, but i havent got a soldering iron at the moment and need to get another one... i didnt think to check the values and angles on the pots when i had it apart i assumed they would all be the same value.... the transmitter works well enough, but the inconsistancy on the pitch elevator pot needs me to set some expo to the pot to keep it stable...

[jhsa]

i think you just have a centering problem on that stick..

[bob195558]

I have been trying to replicate Flaps30's work replacing the pots with a hall effect sensor and a magnet.. It works fine but it just gives me terrible centering. I don't know if the problem are the 9x gimbals, the sensor that doesn't return to the same value for the exact same point of the magnet, or both for the throttle stick that difference is irrelevant but for control surfaces it is too much error.
Anyway, the stock regulator doesn't put out enough juice for handling the radio plus 4 sensors as each of them takes about 11mA. so I replaced the stock 78L05 with a AMS1117-5.0
I must have shorted something while measuring because after a while I started seeing voltages of about 7.5V on the pots and sensors, and also a center voltage of over 3,5V. At first I got completely confused. But then noticed that the radio screen was blank. Ouch.. measured the voltage and it was 10.5V when it should read 5V.. Double ouch... The regulator was putting battery voltage on the output.. So, I've learnt that this reg doesn't have short circuit protection.. Removed the reg. and connected 5V directly to the board, DEAD. Triple ouch..
So, I removed the board and was preparing myself to replace the chip with a brand new Atmega 2561 (I have m128 at the moment), but decided to hook the board to the computer as a confirmation that it was really completely dead. well, I managed to read the eeprom, then flashed the board and it did without errors.. checked the fuses, they were ok, but decided to program them again.. All ok..Went back to the workbench connected 5V, and the bugger was alive.. I couldn't believe, I still can't. After zapping it with over 10V for many seconds this radio is still working without problems as far as I can see.. Time will tell if there is some kind of brain damage
I'm very disappointed with the magnetic sensors mod though
João

Hi João,

Sorry to here about the difficulties you are having, but maybe your 9x mainboard will be OK.

I also looked at changing over the poorly designed 9x Pots to one of the Hall-Effect modes,
but decided not to try because it was difficult to get the magnet poisoned correctly
(viewtopic.php?f=95&t=2974&hilit=hall+ef ... =60#p45394)
or sensor (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=2974&start=120&hil ... net+gimbal)
so that you could have the proper values.

Maybe because your voltage was not holding to 5-volts,
is why your Hall-Effect (magnetic sensors mod) was not working properly.

Bob B.

[jhsa]

Hi Bob, thanks for the links.. I have no problem with the range.. I can make the hall sensor range from 100mV to nearly the supply voltage, and also centre the magnet on half supply quite easily.
My problem is that it is not centering well.. I mean, sometimes 2 or 3% off.. sometimes more. the gimbals are bad.. Lots of play everywhere. All plastic. the pot shaft has too much play. I did everything I could to minimize the play but couldn't figure out what is doing it.. I did have some very little success by placing the sensor well away from the magnet, but then of course the voltage range would be reduced. I couldn't notice any difference on a cheap servo. I only knew the range was very reduced because I could see it on the voltmeter. The magnets I use are diametrically magnetized and measure 7mm diameter by 5mm high. They juuuust fit inside the radio ideally they should be only 4mm high.
I'm thinking I might have better results with a larger diameter (10mm diameter x 5mm) that could allow me to place the sensor (Allegro A1302) away from the magnet and minimize the effects of the play on the pot's shaft. The problem is, will it fit? I have my doubts..
here are a couple photos..

João

[SkyNorth]

This part might be worth looking at:
http://www.digikey.ca/product-highlight ... nsor/53078

The I2C port allows you to calibrate it and set the span range.
They make a little test board to try it ..but its $28 ....
-Brent

[jhsa]

Not for the 9x I'm afraid? it works with 3.3V and the atmega voltage reference is 5V? Also i2c could work but according to Mike it might be difficult to implement on the 9x due to the reduced available flash on the m64 chip..
And it is quite expensive in my opinion

João

[bob195558]

Hi João,

Maybe another way, which would be a pain, is to program each model with a dead spot area at the center sticks.
I have done this with my Quad's rudder (YAW) stick control, because some times I was moved my rudder stick a little left or right when I was adjusting the throttle stick up and down. Programing a dead spot area at the rudder center stick helped me to stop the Quad from rotating when adjusting the throttle stick.

Increasing the gimbal return spring tension may help too.

Bob B.

[SR71]

Not for the 9x I'm afraid? it works with 3.3V and the atmega voltage reference is 5V? Also i2c could work but according to Mike it might be difficult to implement on the 9x due to the reduced available flash on the m64 chip..
And it is quite expensive in my opinion

João

There are cheaper models working at 5 or 3.3 V.
Btw even an analog output should be available.

[jhsa]

Yes, but in this case the analog output is 3.3V I think.. that makes it not suitable for the 9x?

João

[jhsa]

This is what I have been up to concerning the 9x sticks. Attached to this post is a zip file with some photos so you have an idea of what I've done..

Centering is within 0.2 or 0.2% for the aileron and rudder and within 0.5% for the elevator.
If resolution was affected, I have no idea, someone else will have to do the math It seems ok on the simulator and with a crappy servo.. Will it stay always centered, not losing calibration, affected by temperature changes, etc?? I have no idea.. time will tell and I will report. But it seems a good alternative for a pot that gets damaged.. Even if it looks easy and straight forward, it is not.. Very small movements of the magnet mean a very big difference in voltage, because the pot shaft rotates only a very small angle. I will see if I can do it in a different way..

João

[NicoSausB]

This is what I have been up to concerning the 9x sticks. Attached to this post is a zip file with some photos so you have an idea of what I've done..

Centering is within 0.2 or 0.2% for the aileron and rudder and within 0.5% for the elevator.

May I ask you what type of magnets you use and where you bought them?

My hall sensors Allegro A1302 are lying around since two years and I finally would like to try a hall effect conversion.

[jhsa]

Hi, this is the magnet I ended up using in all sticks except on the throttle.

http://www.supermagnete.de/eng/ring-mag ... 0-05-05-DN

I only didn't use it on the throttle because I experimented before with other magnets that didn't center as well as this one and I didn't want to destroy another gimbal just in case this didn't work. But the throttle is not a big issue as far as centering is concerned so I used another magnet that was already glued to a pot housing.
I will try to update this post with more info later..

João

[NicoSausB]

Hello João,
thank you very much!

I'll report how it worked on my transmitter.

[NicoSausB]

Today I've finished my Hall sensor conversion of my Turnigy 9X transmitter.
Everything went very fine and the conversion was much easier than expected, presumably because I've had qualified assistance by a good friend!
Centering on all sticks is very good (within 0.1 to 0.2 percent).

Of course I have no long-time-experiences with it and time will show how stable this Hall sensor system is - but it looks quite good so far.

I've written an accompanying report in my mother language german and I've made a translation into english - hopefully not too bad...

EDIT: I've revised my conversion reports a little bit to consider the helpful comments of João.