Here are two more 5K Potentiometer possibilities I received from a vender.
The first one I think is the best, but some of the dimensions are not correct and they seem the leave out the shaft degrees rotation in the data also.
But take a look at them and let me know if you think one of these would work.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Here are two more 5K Potentiometer possibilities I received from a vender.
The first one I think is the best, but some of the dimensions are not correct and they seem the leave out the shaft degrees rotation in the data also.
But take a look at them and let me know if you think one of these would work.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Here are two more 5K Potentiometer possibilities I received from a vender.
The first one I think is the best, but some of the dimensions are not correct and they seem the leave out the shaft degrees rotation in the data also. But take a look at them and let me know if you think one of these would work.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Hi Every One,
Been working on our 9X Potentiometer Problem and have again traced the problem to the Red Eyelet wire connector that makes contact to the Resistant Element Surface.
So far this has been the same problem with four different 9X Radio Potentiometers.
In every case it has been the Red Eyelet wire connection.
The other two White and Black Eyelet wire connections have had real solid connections.
But the Red Eyelet wire connection to its side of the Resistant Element Surface is having its resistance values change constantly.
Any deflection of the wires connected to the 5K Potentiometer is resulting in the resistance values to change with any wire movement.
With ever so slight of wire movement there is an increase in the resistant value from the Red wire of the 5K Potentiometer.
The cause is in the poor connection between the Resistant Element Surface and the Red Eyelet wire connection.
I have checked the solder joints and they are good, but the weak link in the series of Red wire connection continues to be between the Red wire Eyelet to the Resistant Element Surface.
With the first three potentiometers I was able to simply squeeze the Red Eyelet connector tighter together with the Resistant Element Surface and this did fixed all three 9x Radio Problem 5K Potentiometers.
Except for one, this problem came back after several days and it still has this Problem.
So now trying to re-squeeze the Red wire Eyelet connector with small pliers is NOT working.
I found and purchased a small tube of Conductive Wire Glue from Radio Shack and I have applied this onto the Red Eyelet connector and a little bit further onto the Resistant Element Surface.
So far the results look positive but I still feel apprehensive about it being successful because instead of reading the maximum of 5K (at full resistance range) I am reading 6.3K.
But when I checked the Resistance Surfaces from the Black Eyelet end to the Red Eyelet end I am getting 5.3K. And when I check through the Wires I am getting around the 6.3K.
Which makes me think there is a poorer connection somewhere because of the increased resistance.
And so I checked for any resistance from the Red Eyelet connector to the end of the Red Wire and found NO resistance.
Before I applied the Conductive Wire Glue, things seem to be getting worse as I was getting over 20K of resistance sometimes, just by touching and moving the wires around.
After I had applied the Conductive Wire Glue on the inside to where the Red Eyelet connector is, the fluctuating resistance cut back to around 5.3K to 6.3K.
So it is still fluctuating a little but has improved a lot.
When the Conductive Wire Glue has had more time to setup, I will reassemble the 9x 5K Potentiometer back into the 9x Gimbals and recheck it again.
Blessing from JESUS to you all
Robert
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Please post the link to this glue.
There is also a silver conductive paint pen that is $20 that may be a better option to avoid adding resistance. Also a conductive epoxy has been used from auto parts stores used to fix breaks in auto window heater connections, $12.
I'm glad that the recrimp fix worked for most of your pot issues. I first posted that after fixing a friends reversed battery on his 1 hour old 9x. He had also tried to fix it and really messed with the wires. It was midnight and after bringing it back to life I discovered the pot issue. Weather it was me, or him, I knew I'd take the "hit" for it. Out of desperation I reversed engendered what was going on and in and in a "crimp" of faith, I did it. It worked and has been used many times by me and others.
If the glue you used does work we should add it to the list of things to try. If its not actually silver bearing it may not be the answer to a low resistance contact fix.
Please post your fix outcome.
SM
I picked up the Conductive Wire Glue at the RadioShack Store and it cost about $5.50.
USP#: 040293996109 item #: 6400146 12A12
RadioShack Technology Plus Conductive Wire Glue .
There is not much info about it. They claim it can be used as a wire connection.
I think it must work better with higher voltage.
It seems to have a good amount of resistance in it for low voltage uses.
It may not work that well, after reassembling my 9x 5K Potentiometer the connections seem to be lost again.
I am not sure what is going on yet. I need to recheck everything I have done today.
I need to go out tomorrow so maybe it will be good to set it aside for a day thing are not always coming out right and/or keep changing on me.
Not sure why it not working correctly.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
THe total resistance of the pot is not that important as the pot is used as e voltage divider.
So as long as the resistance is consistent and in the range of, let's say, up to 10 kOhm it should work.
The more important fact is, that there is no or only a rather low resistance form the external connector to the resistive track of the pot.
You can check the function of the pot with a volt meter. Connect one leg to the minus side and the other leg to the sweeper. With power on you should get a voltage variation af about 4 volt between minimum and maximum voltage e.g. 0.5 volt - 4.5 volt.
In one easy step, one can make low voltage AC and DC electrical connections without soldering or heating.
Just apply Wire Glue with a toothpick and allow to dry to a strong hold and you have a solid electrical and mechanical connection for lots of low voltage electronics uses
HI, a little more info with my search for improving my 9X Radio 5K Potentiometer.
Inside the 5K Potentiometer I had removed the grease from the Wipers and the two Resistant Element Surfaces.
I used CRC QD Electronic Cleaner (Basically a good Degreaser) and when I reassembled the Potentiometer, the center White Wire connection,
which is to the Wiper contacts to the two Resistant Element Surfaces, it lost some of its contact to the Resistant Element Surfaces.
Checking the Ohm's resistant between the White Wire Wiper connection and the Black Wire Resistant Element Surfaces before I degreased the inside of my 5K Potentiometer,
I was getting a solid reading of, Low end: 0.3.3 / Midway: 2.6.8 / Full end: 4.8.9 and after degreasing it I was getting Low end: No connection / Midway: No connection / and a
little way past the Midway: 1.0.2 and the Ohm's resistant from there continued up to the Full resistant of: 8.7.2.
I think I made things much worse when I degreased the Resistant Element Surfaces.
I took my Potentiometer back apart and could see the Resistant Element Surfaces was looking a little glazed-over and when I tested it for continuity, I was Not able to get any continuity.
So I took a broke piece of Dremel cut-off saw (used it like very find sand paper) and lightly scratched the surface of the Two Resistant Element Surfaces and
I left the fine scratch particles and/or the scratch dust on the Resistant Element Surfaces.
I then reassembled the Potentiometer and I had positive results when checking for continuity between the center output White Wire and the Minis Black Ground wire.
The values them selves still seem to be reading incorrectly but stable between the White wire to the Black wire.
The Ohms resistant values between the Plus Red 5 Volts wire to the White output wire is still being unstable when I check for the Ohms resistant values.
But maybe I am not under standing what I should be expecting to see.
Some 9x Forum (old name) and/or Open TX Forum members suggest the 9x Radio Gimbals 5K Potentiometer should keep a high tolerance of Ohms values.
But other 9x Forum and/or Open TX Forum members have suggested that the total Ohms resistance values of the 5K Potentiometer are not that important.
It is explained that it is more important that the resistance values are staying consistent than to what the resistance values actuality are,
this is because the Potentiometer in our case is being used as a voltage divider.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Your fix doesn't sound to be a good one. Your problems are likely to come back and bite you in the rear in a short space of time. Just my opinion of course.
As for the resistance value.. No it doesn't matter if it is off at all, as you correct errors in the mechanical centering of the resistance track and any errors when you calibrate them.
What does matter is the stability with time and temperature of the track over its total path.
If you do anymore element cleaning maybe using a pencil eraser would be less course. Find a newer pencil and rub it on a piece of cloth or jeans a few times to get a new surface. Then use the eraser sparingly on the pot surface.
The conductive silver PC board repair pen from radio shack may be your last resort try at this point, or the less expensive one I think you found. It has to have a very low resistance conductivity. I never tried the auto glass heater wire epoxy that was posted as a fix in the th9x or er9x RCGroups several years ago but I did read he claimed it worked and cost $12.
At this point you need to be careful you don't spend more than its worth to fix one pot. You could replace the 9x and sell off the parts and maybe come out OK. Many want a new main board and switches and sticks. If the have working pots and you have good sticks they will want your parts.
Keep up the fixing as long as you can, and then rethink it.
SM
I have an idea again, ....... to a possible solution to make the connection between the Positive 5 Volt Red Eyelet connector and the Resistant Element Surfaces
to have constant conductivity connection between each other.
I have a pin vice and some very small drills and with patience I can carefully hand drill several small holes through the Resistant Element end board.
Then I can strip the insulation off some stranded wire and use single stands to sew them through the holes making contact between the two connections.
I think this has a good chase to work.
As it is now when the meter reading between the Positive 5 Volt Red Wire and the Minus Black Ground Wire is reading 19.75 ohms of resistance to No connection at all.
When I put pressure in different directions on the small circuit board I sometimes will get as low as 8.7 ohms of resistance but it never stays consistent.
It always wants to return back to 19.75 ohms and/or no connection at all.
I found that if I take a small piece of solder and just touch it between the eyelet and the resistant element surface I immediately get 5.76 ohms of resistance which must be
what my particular potentiometer has been manufactured at.
I may try applying the conductive wire glue over the top of the wire strands.
I feel confident that this has a good chance to work.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Carbon has a much higher resistant to it and that's why when I used the Conductive Wire Glue,
it did not seem to work very well because it has carbon in it for the Conductivity.
The Conductive Wire Glue has a much higher resistance then pencil lead, and after it set up over night it seem to get ever higher.
Silver is the best conductive material and would give me a better chance for a fix.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Are replacing the pots with ones out of a new 9x a viable option ?
Does a 9x have 4 sets of these pots ?
Are the 4 pots in the 9x interchangeable ?
What would be an acceptable 'replacement part' price for a new 9x pot ?
I never tried the auto glass heater wire epoxy that was posted as a fix in the th9x or er9x RCGroups several years ago but I did read he claimed it worked and cost $12.
SM
I recently used this repair method on two 9x pots. It worked well, as I. Was able to calibrate the sticks. This has held up for about 20 flights over the last 4-5 weeks. One pot had a bad connection on the +5v side. I just painted the "gap" between the metal and the carbon surface. The resistance and voltage spreads are back to normal. Anyway the fine control of the servos is smooth and full range.
You have to fine the replace pots first because this is one of the biggest problems.
We are not able to fine any vender that Sells replacement pots for our 9x Radios.
You can by another New 9x Radio and use your old one for parts.
I have seen broke, strip old 9x Radios being purchased for more then the cost of a new one.
Why did they spent more for a junk striped 9x Radio?
I do not understand why they did that.
Any way, Yes,....... there are 4 pots in two set of Gimbals.
I think they are all the same very small 5k Pots in two set of Gimbals.
I would spend $10 a piece for them.
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Most of the solutions on here run more than $10 although they could effect more than one repair. The replacement pots listed also . How about $13 plus $2 for domestic shipping
I have a 1 yr old 9x that has never been used. I was thinking of parting it out. If you need some pots, pm me. shipping would start at $2 USPS domestic. It may run a little more if you take all 4 of them. The life of this thread is an attestment to the demand of replacement parts for the 9x
I stripped down the 9x. There are 3 different pcb containing the pots for the gimbals. 2 are the same and 2 are mirror images. I decided not to break down the gimbal at this time. get a whole gimbal for $20 plus $2 domestic shipping.
Here is what is in our 9X Radios for 9x Radio Potentiometers.
This could be used to send to venders when looking for replacement 9x Radio Potentiometers.
Attachments
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Here is some more pictures of our 9x Radio Potentiometers.
The 9x Potentiometer with the Resistive Element End removed shows the 55 degrees that the wipers make connect with that have a darker surface.
9X Radio Potentiometer Info
Gimbals Maximum Potentiometer Degrees of Rotation: 55 Degrees
9X Turnigy or 9X FlySky
Potentiometer Resistance (Ohms): 5K
Potentiometer Maximum degrees of Rotation: 215 Degrees
Number of Turns: Single
Actuator Shaft Diameter: 0.138" (3.51mm)
Actuator Type: Flatted Shaft
9x Potentiometer is Labeled: B502 60
Attachments
Er9x on 9x radio, with Smartieparts Programmer and TelemetrEZ Board.
ErSky9x on Taranis, Sky9x, 9Xtreme radios.
3D-Printing: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=129).
Interesting. The more I look at that picture of the internals of the pot. The more I come around to thinking that all the stuff I have read about it being a special pot that has a reduced rotation range and two resistance tracks to give a greater electrical swing is nonsense. Any resistance of the centre track is in series with the wiper, so it has no effect on the output voltage range. The main (outer) track looks like any other pot that I have seen with regard to the amount that it can rotate.
That is leaving aside that what I see is a cheap pot that I wouldn't dream of using in any critical position. The ideal to me would be a sealed unit that has a plastic film track.
Flaps 30 wrote: Any resistance of the centre track is in series with the wiper, so it has no effect on the output voltage range. The main (outer) track looks like any other pot that I have seen with regard to the amount that it can rotate.
No, see here:
On the 9x pot the outer (red) parts are a 0 Ohm track, they conduct perfectly, while the blue part is a normal resistive track. This means that the blue range covers the whole resistive path, and thus wiping just that little bit gives 0V to VCC.
On a normal pot the entire track would be resistive.
Speaking about gimbals, I've been toying with the idea of replacing mine to arrive at a single-stick radio, like the old-time ones. Actually two sticks, but one just for throttle/collective, the other a three-way for AIL ELE and RUD (on rotation). Here's the one I bought, a three axis job that looks and seems to work fine. http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/it ... temid=1263
However, now reading this thread a little doubt has emerged. Does anyone see any major problem for using this 3-axis joystick? All three pots are 5k of course, and the travel of the stick looks similar to the stock gimbal. They list 2-way gimbals as well, maybe a good solution instead of toying with the original pots?
Hmm.. Yes I can now see what is going on. Thanks Kilrah. Sadly that in rules out the majority of what is available on the market.
The best way would be to go high tec and replace those nasty cheap unreliable carbon tracks with a contactless hall effect device. Maybe something like this would be worth investigating. -----> Hall effect based control inputs
at least here 
, but it can have different meanings 
