ERSKY9x Rev. B1 User Area

[hpihl]

Tested just the c9x 0.55. Firmware loads ok but did not load custom splash screen.

Otherwise can't find optrex LCD option from the ersky9x-r53, setting has disapeared from 2/8 radio setup page

[bertrand35]

The way Eraz added it is not good with recent compilers, the marks are optimized away (because they are not used in the FW). As ersky9x is based on Yagarto (gcc 4.6.2), it's impossible to recognize the splash screen... Mike would it be possible you use the same way that open9x does ("SPS" at the start, "SPE" at the end of the splash) so that it would work out of the box? If you want I could do it for you, no problem.
Bertrand.

[MikeB]

I spotted the loss of the Optrex display option, went with the addition of speaker options. A fix is pending, I'll try to upload it today, otherwise I shall not be changing anything for a few days.

If I get a moment I'll have a look at the splash screen.

Mike.

[Romolo]

I spotted the loss of the Optrex display option, went with the addition of speaker options. A fix is pending, I'll try to upload it today, otherwise I shall not be changing anything for a few days.

If I get a moment I'll have a look at the splash screen.

Mike.

Mike,
In companion9x we have two ways for replacing splash:
1) Binary search of a known splash image
2) Replace an image between two known markers.
At the moment we can replace the standard splash as it's a known bitmap, but as soon we replace it we have no way to replace it anymore in the binary file as the replaced one is unknown to companion and in ersky9x markers were optimized out by the compiler.

[MikeB]

Thanks, I'll get to it in a couple of days.
Not sure the markers actually got into the code.

r54 uploaded, fixed the menu problem, the battery voltage is now the actual battery voltage everywhere, instead of the 3.3V regulator supply voltage (may need to check your battery calibration). In RADIO SETUP2, there is now a TX battery capacity setting, if the used capacity reaches this value, you will get an alarm.

Mike.

[ShowMaster]

Is r54 available for download today? I only see r51.
BTW
I'm finally going to fly my ersky board and may try the auto trim function if I can find it and program a switch. Same for my er9x just to see how it works. Just taking it slow now that the hardware mods are pretty much done I have time to try all the new features my dx7 will. Ever have that got me into the 9x project.
I've never used the hub yet and all the sensors except for temp I have. I need to find the screens that the data is displayed for each board, er9x and ersky9x. I gave 2 presentations on the er9x Frsky system and what it can do. I'm now being asked to do the same for ersky9x soon. A lot of Q&A after the meetings and 2 persons are working on their er9x builds, one's ready to go, the other is waiting for a 9x. I'm sure a ersky9x presentation when I'm up to speed generate more interest as well. If only there was a fast order source for the radios these days.
Ok off to push buttons, and look at menus, and flash my radios with any new FW, and then to the field for my first ersky9x flight.
SM

[MikeB]

Rather than keep putting a new download, with a new name, in the downloads section, I'm now putting the .bin in the trunk under svn. There is a link on the ersky9x code home page to let you get to it quickly. Just click on the link to download the latest version.

Mike

[ShowMaster]

Rather than keep putting a new download, with a new name, in the downloads section, I'm now putting the .bin in the trunk under svn. There is a link on the ersky9x code home page to let you get to it quickly. Just click on the link to download the latest version.

Mike

Quoted to keep this together Mike.
Thanks for the info. I see the link on the wiki link and it downloaded fine to a folder.
I do keep a few back builds with r# to verify I haven’t had a hardware failure vs new code update issues after a flash. The new files have no revision # I can read until I load it into my ersky9x board and read the revision screen. Sam-ba won't open unless the tx is connected to see if it gives a r#. I'm not sure about Conpanion9X yet? I could load it read it and go back and rename the saved .bin file if that's the best option.
If there are r# references in the .bin file is there a simple program for windows that will read the code?
Just asking to get on the same page for the new format.
Thanks
SM

[SkyNorth]

Here is a drawing of how to switch the amplifier over to the 5V supply from the 3.3V supply.
Those people that are running the Board at 9.5V or more and want full volume audio , may want to consider the modification.

I also have another Idea of using Two 3.3V regulators , that I'm working on.

DO NOT TRY THIS ...unless you are confident soldering to the surface mount capacitor.
I wear a Head Loupe with 3.5 X lens so that I can see the tiny connections,

You need to cut the small track from C61 to were it attaches to the Round VIA.
This will disconnect the 3.3V power rail (on the bottom side of board) from the Audio Amplifier.
Now you need to run a jumper wire from C61 to the 5V regulator output.

To attach a wire to C61 , pre-tin the jumper wire end with solder , and quickly heat up the end of C61 and jumper wire until is just melts, now let cool
while holding the jumper in place. IF YOU ADD TOO MUCH HEAT then the capacitor will become un-soldered from both sides of the part ...
this is not wanted..and you must reattach the capacitor to the other side , and try again.

3.3v TO 5V AMPLIFIER CONVERSION

This is being posted for Reference , you do not need to do the Mod.

[bertrand35]

Brent,
Is the mod needed with this speaker:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... 059wt_1140
I have this battery, then > 9.5V:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... pack_.html
Thanks,
Bertrand.

[Rob Thomson]

Nope. Just plug the speaker direct to the board.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SkyNorth]

The 16 Ohm speaker will lighten the load a bit , but once the amplifier starts putting out any decent volume level
you are at 100mA .

9.9V - 3.3V = 6.6 V (the board could run on this difference)
6.6V x 0.1A = 0.66 Watts for the audio , plus about 80mA for the Micro (1/2 watt)

The little "tab" on the regulator cannot dissipate over 1 Watt for a extended time without over heating.

The amplifier is a bit louder with a 5V supply , and if the 5V regulator got to hot and shutdown for a second , your backlight and audio
would go out for a second until it reset.

As it is now , You could push the regulator TOO close to its maximum operating temp. under certain conditions.
This could also shorten its life , and cause a Radio shutdown / reboot.

I have another fix using a second 3.3V regulator , That I need to try , but IF you are going to run that input voltage then ,
you need to do one of the Modifications.
-Brent

[Rob Thomson]

I see....

So... This mod is only needed if using a 3 cell lipo?

Rob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bertrand35]

Ok Brent, I understand that even with a 32Ohms speaker, it's not safe. I will do the easier mod that you will propose then!
This is the only problem I see with this board. I will attach some photos of my installation in an other ersky9x topic ...
Bertrand.

[Romolo]

The 16 Ohm speaker will lighten the load a bit , but once the amplifier starts putting out any decent volume level
you are at 100mA .

9.9V - 3.3V = 6.6 V (the board could run on this difference)
6.6V x 0.1A = 0.66 Watts for the audio , plus about 80mA for the Micro (1/2 watt)

The little "tab" on the regulator cannot dissipate over 1 Watt for a extended time without over heating.

The amplifier is a bit louder with a 5V supply , and if the 5V regulator got to hot and shutdown for a second , your backlight and audio
would go out for a second until it reset.

As it is now , You could push the regulator TOO close to its maximum operating temp. under certain conditions.
This could also shorten its life , and cause a Radio shutdown / reboot.

I have another fix using a second 3.3V regulator , That I need to try , but IF you are going to run that input voltage then ,
you need to do one of the Modifications.
-Brent

What about getting the 5 volts from the regulator on the original buzzer board ?
That regulator can be easily changed with a TO220 size one to allow bigger dissipation.

[SkyNorth]

The 3.3V regulator comes in a TO220 package this will fit standing up buy bending the legs into "J"
The spot on the PCB where the TAB of the SMT regulator mounts needs jumpered to pin 2 (3.3V) output of the regulator.

With a TO220 , a small heat sink can easily be bolted on or clipped on or screwed on ..... , and this package will have no problem with the Heat dissipation.

-Brent

I

[Clivew]

Think I will feed my amp and haptic from the 5 volt reg, should make it "bomb proof".
Brent, what does the pcb look like underneath that via at C61?
Could I do it on the underside to make a neat job?
Thanks

Clive

[SkyNorth]

The track to cut is very short and only on the top , the bottom of the board is mostly ground plane , with the 3.3V track running through it.

I'm still playing with using a couple of 3.3V regulators , to split the power.

The best way to avoid problems is to not over power the board in the first place.

[ShowMaster]

Flew my new board with Frsky DJT telemety interfaced. Battery is a 2 cell 1300 Ma lipo for now. No hub was used but lipo divider and WS How High was. Everything worked 100% except for me not setting some alarm levels right. 3 great flights as far as practical and even above 400 Ft to check the altitude alarm that also worked great.
Some fine tuning and more menu studying on my part will be needed but so far so great.

I do have a request?
Is it posable/practical to assign telemetry screens to a switch? That way one could flip screens fast back and forth without hitting the - or + keys. They react differently depending on long or short push witch is hard to do when flying.
Had a good day flying while others crashed big time all around me. Brought it all home again, whew!
SM

[SkyNorth]

Here is how to mount a TO220 style 3.3V regulator.

The metal tab on the regulator can easily attach to a heatsink , to provide even more cooling if needed.

-Brent

[ShowMaster]

Re TO220 regulator
Just to be clear is the original regulator still a risk with a 2 cell lipo battery source?
Is moving the Amp and Haptic voltage source to the onboard 5v regulator per your mod a better option than upgrading the 3.3V regulator to a TO220 size? Either mod requires some trace cutting and a wire added or desoldering and resoldering a new part to the small SMD pads. Each has it's challenges for many. I myself feel confident I can do either without destroying the boards trace or pads so I'm good, best/better mod recommendation would help me decide on the mod to do.
Is it beter to upgrade the regulator or move the big current circuits off of the rail that supports the CPU is my worry.
Last is a concern that with the larger TO220 case soldered to the original SMD pads and sticking up vertically in the case without support makes it easy to bump/hit when working on the TX. How much force will it take to tear the part and the pads off of the board if accidentally hit while disconnecting connector cables ect?
Of course easy does it is sound advice for us all but just wanted to mention it before I mod my board in any way.
One thought is to mount the TO220 on a small piece of one sided PC boards copper side, and see if it could be nesseled horizontally making a lower profile and use double sided foam tape to mount it. Small wires from it leads to the pads could be added and keep a much lower profile to being bumped.
As said above, I personally feel comfortable with any fix but will hold off while all the options come in. This is why it called beta testing and it's working, problems are surfacing and fixes are being engineered.
For those that are solder challenged and reading this you may want to not jump in right now unless your ready for a little bumpy ride, I'm ready!
Comments?
SM

[SkyNorth]

The stock regulator with 2S lipo , and normal (low) audio output is ok , but on a Hot summer day , the internal temp of the Radio could already be 35 - 50 C
and the Regulator should be keep below 125C , with shutdown happening at 150C...
If you can hold your finger on the regulator while the radio is running , then it will be fine ...if its too hot for your finger , then it needs a heatsink or one of
the MODs done.. The little regulator needs some help getting rid of the excess heat.

The audio amp driving full volume nearly triples the supply current....this is what is causing the heat problems , as all the extra battery voltage not being used
has to be burnt off as heat.

Moving the Audio and Haptic off the 3.3V , will give the "coolest" solution , but The regulator still could use a little help with the heat on those really hot
days and a fully charged pack.

No trace cutting with the TO220 Mod, The middle lead is bent backwards so that it connects to the TAB on the Circuit board and pin 2.
This helps provide some mounting strength for the part . Though as you say because it is now surface mounted ,you have to be a bit more careful
around it but it mounts fairly sturdy .... It needs to stand up so that it can dissipate heat , and allow for a small heatsink to be attached.

Moving the regulator off board would also work , and running 3 wires to the pads.

The bottom Line : with more than 6.5 Volts of input , and lots of loud nearly continuous audio speaker output, you could over heat the regulator and have it
shutdown on you....Some type of extra heatsink (small piece of copper soldered onto regulator tab , Like a piece of copper tube ,it could be modified , so
that it had 4 fins , and a small solder tab to mount to the regulator tab with.

I have not fully tested these ideas , I'm posting them , so people can understand the issue , We are trying to go for the worst case situation here.
Using a 2S lipo is the best way to keep the heat down , but IT may still be possible to overheat the regulator with a loud Audio program , we just no not
know yet.
-Brent

[Kilrah]

Final version should use a DC/DC converter for the 5V rail. That seems to be where the most current is drawn. That way no (well very little) losses and heat, and as a bonus those who use 3s packs will make use of the extra energy

[SkyNorth]

They make these

http://products.cui.com/CUI_V7803-1000R ... ileID=2635

about $10

[Rob Thomson]

Guess it would be fair to say that unless we are playing mp3's...

the issue is not too relevant?

Standard beeps and buzzes are not too common.

[SkyNorth]

I have a board running in the case , with a 12 volt supply.
the 3.3 V Regulator is at 46C to ambient temp is 24C

The Temp rise is
46 - 24 = 22C

So the regulator will heat up 22'C more than the temp inside the radio.

With the volume at 10 , and a constant tone for 5 minutes , the regulator temp hit 75C

So thats a temp rise of about 50C

So if the radio is sitting in the sun it could get up to say 50 - 60 C

So you are at 110C , you dont want to go over 125C' , and at 150C you get shutdown.

The regulator is within its operating limit , but the cooler it runs , the happier it will be. (Also this adds to the internal heat level inside the radio)

And 12V is double the voltage rating the board needs to operate correctly , lowering the voltage , will lower temp rise.

The holes added for the USB / headphone also help with free air flow , through the case..

Things are not that bad ... I just want you to be aware of what could happen.

-Brent

[Clivew]

My thoughts on this fwiw.
(Correct me if I'm wrong Brent)

The processor on it's own should be perfectly happy under all circumstances,
with the existing 3.3 v regulator including a high voltage battery and hot conditions.
The overheating of the 3.3v regulator MIGHT arise (though not in U.K.!) with high voltage
and high ambient temperature, loud audio and haptic current draw.
The answer seems to be to feed the audio amplifier and haptic buzzer from the 5v regulator
as per Brent's suggestions. At the moment this regulator only supplies the lcd display backlight.
If this regulator were overloaded in extreme conditions, it should just shut down and
you would lose backlight, audio and buzzer until it cools. (Wow!)
That's what I intend to do anyway for peace of mind.
Probably OTT, but that's just me!
I think you did a great job in getting this board together in the time Brent
This is a beta board, and to be honest, I'm pretty surprised that this is all that appears to be needed
on a board of this complexity (2 pieces of wire!) at this stage.

Clive

[SkyNorth]

Thanks Clive,
I still have 100 Beta boards , I need to use up... I hate the look of a jumper wire , but yes it IS the best fix.
I tried to get 5V to the Amp , but the 5V regulator was added long after the amp section was was layed out.
And then we go talked into a current sensor and soft power that go stuffed in around the amp.... there was just no more room....

There is going to be an alarm on the processor temp (it has a internal temp sensor)
The processor when just powered up , shows the ambient temp., and then heat starts building up from there.

A threshold level can be set , and if things inside start getting too hot , the alarm will sound
Or in the future maybe it can say the temp.

A couple of 1N400X diodes in series with the battery may still be the easiest fix for most with a little too much voltage.

-Brent

[Clivew]

I still want another! (I don't do pretty!)

[bertrand35]

Clive, would you make a small schema of your solution please ? I think I will need it ... Thanks a lot!
Bertrand.