openrcforums

The board I posted above (green) does need a shunt if used with AR9x.

Since some time ago, I use a newer batch of boards (easily identifiable by the blue PCB) that does not require any shunts. Everything is already included in the PCB design. So if you got a board from me and it's blue - no need to worry about the shunts!

Still, correct positioning / orientation is required, indeed!
There are some prints on the boards to help with that, too.

andrewju wrote:
Since some time ago, I use a newer batch of boards (easily identifiable by the blue PCB) that does not require any shunts. Everything is already included in the PCB design. So if you got a board from me and it's blue - no need to worry about the shunts!

Well, well, well, I didn't know that

João

what do you metinonan no need for the 3k9 resistor for the wire connection

what do you mean no need for the 3k9 resistor for the wire connection

does anyone have the wire connection setup to were and what each wire goes to on the number 7,6,5

andrew can you give me the wire connection diagram for the pcb and do i still need to use 3k9 resistors for the connection on to the 9x board chip were does the wire go does A com go to +5 connection and A go to pin 5 and B to 6 and the s1 go to 7 pin or how did you connect the wires

so com A connect to +5 S1 connect to pin #3 B connect to pin #4 connect A to pin #5 is this correct

I just dont want to see a genie come out of all this good work to near to finish the mod

Are you connecting the encoder to the stock mainboard?
Check out the first post in this thread: viewtopic.php?t=1525
It has some photos and the diagram, as well as some hints on how to do it. I think it should answer most (all?) of your questions.

On the stock board, you do need a 3k3 or 3k9 resistor on each wire going to the MCU. So it's 3 resistors in total.

Andrew it all work out did not have to make any changes I connect 3 3k9 resistors to each wire except for the 5v connection and did not have to make any switch on the wire connection it was a easy mod thanks to your PCB thanks man it was so easy thanks for your help and the back light works with the rotary encoder I dont understand i read somewhere that it would not but I have my back light working fine

andrewju wrote:The board I posted above (green) does need a shunt if used with AR9x.

Since some time ago, I use a newer batch of boards (easily identifiable by the blue PCB) that does not require any shunts. Everything is already included in the PCB design. So if you got a board from me and it's blue - no need to worry about the shunts!

Still, correct positioning / orientation is required, indeed!
There are some prints on the boards to help with that, too.

My guess is that the side were the encoder is outlined and the name of the enconder writen is where the encoder sits. The pins go out the oposite side?

yeah great work do you still have more Im thinking of ordering another maybe two let me know so I can post you the payment on your account OK

OctavioS wrote:My guess is that the side were the encoder is outlined and the name of the enconder writen is where the encoder sits. The pins go out the oposite side?

Yes, correct! Exactly as shown on your photo.

As a side note: I find it a little easier to solder the encoder first, and then to solder the pins. The difference is not that big though.

silversurfer48 wrote:do you still have more

Sure, I still have plenty of them available.

Sent you a PM.

andrewju wrote:Yes, correct! Exactly as shown on your photo.

As a side note: I find it a little easier to solder the encoder first, and then to solder the pins. The difference is not that big though.

Now I know what you mean. Because I soldered the pins first and they went a bit behind the board, now i have a 2 mm gap between the board and the encoder.

That gap is actually not a bad thing! I sometimes put a think piece of paper or something like that between the PCB and the encoder in order to make this gap. The encoder then fits better into the 9x case - this way it gets at a comfortable height when everything is put back together.

You should measure how it fits your radio, I think it will be nearly perfect with this gap! And the final correction of height and positioning need to be made when you solder these pins to the mainboard (take your time to measure and recheck it again and again - no need to rush there!).

My main problem when installing these encoders was the HK Backlight. I normally had to sand the encoder board a little on the side that faces the backlight. Not sure if it was necessary with andewju's boards. It was quite a while ago. All my radios have it installed now
One thing I can say about his boards is that they are extremely high quality, at least the ones I have..

João

Ok, much relieved now Andrewju, for a moment I thought a screwed up things.
I don't think it's necessary João, as you can see the blue boards are cut on the sides.

Yes, the blue boards are cut on both sides and should not need extra trimming. Though, this may vary based on the shape and size of the backlight panel one has.

For the HK backlight, I usually turn them around so that the wires face to the Menu / Exit buttons. I find it is easier to install it this way (even in radios without the encoder!). All of my radios have backlight controlled by ER9x, so I don't use the stock connector HK backlight came with.

Yeah, the same here.. as I said, it has been a while and I wasn't sure yours needed trimming.. You have just confirmed that they don't..

João

With a basic 9x radio (with M128) , when using a simple scroll switch (scrolling plus one single switch) like this one https://openrcforums.com/forum/download ... &mode=view
is it possible to handle all menues or do I need additional switches ?

Reinhard

Nearly everything will work, however I think there are some places where MENU is needed instead of the encoder switch.
A long press of the encoder switch acts as the EXIT button.
Navigating the main screens currently requires at least on of up/down and one of left/right buttons.
This could be changed. Currently, I think, the encoder is allowed to act as an extra input when in the main screens, modifying a global variable.

Mike

Thanks for the answer, Mike.

I'm trying to revive a multiplex Cockpit SX transmitter with a dead mainboard. It has a built in scroll switch that I will try to use.
But for ease of handling its probably the safest way, if I can manage to have a 5-way tactile switch in addition to the existing scroll switch.

Reinhard