openrcforums

The long shiny one is the crystal. It provides the heartbeat. it probably says '12' on it for 12 mhz. I did have one crystal fail. 20+ years ago when I repaired rf pagers a crystal failure was common. They were quartz then, I have no idea any more.

Kaos - May I suggest that you link the two solder points together that were the original solder points for the USB connector. One of my programmers relied on the case of the USB connector to join up two grounds.

No USB case=no lights and no go..

Link both of the original case solder points together=Big smiles

sure you may, any time.
just a wire across the case solder points?
I think you are onto somthing.

Yup. Just do that

well, short the two usb case points, nothing. so heck might as well hook to the gnd pin as well with the case points.
I got a brief moment of a green led light when plug in usb from programmer, then hear two ding dong, then I looked at pC, again unknow device. but at this time the green led also went off already.
hmm, something is going on, may still have hope. at least this is the 1st time got a led to blink for a brief moment.

I want to know where does R8 connect to? I can see in the picture it connects to pin 14 on the m8, where else does that side go to? And where does the other side of R8 connect to? Then what 2 things does J1 connect? I double checked your wiring, that seems to be ok.
-Gohst

kaos wrote:hmm, something is going on, may still have hope. at least this is the 1st time got a led to blink for a brief moment.

Okay. So it is a step forward. So one thing has been resolved. Now for the other one...

which one?
r8 one side goes to p14 like you said. the other one doe not seem to go any were beside going to the other side which is now glued under a piece of wood. seems to go to the little track on the other side right below the number 161. that track ends no where where we can see but what is under that wood , I can't tell. we probably won't find out. that wood was glued with epoxy. don't think it is coming out.
few times I have been one step ahead of myself and glued the wood on and now got stuck.

the schematic here should help you decipher what the jumper accomplish.
http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/

R8 here = JP2 on schematic
Jumper here = JP1 on schematic

If you start to get hung up on the fact that the pin numbers are different, reference the pin names, look at the datasheets, I think it all works out. the schematic is for a m88. the current devices are m8. the source code does work in the m8

Glad we are moving forward on the ground thing.

but the ground thing only made the green blinked once, can't reproduce it any more. I resolder or remelt all the usb wire joint. no led blinks.
gee, 3 , 4 electronic wiz and one full time person working on a 4 dollar piece of '***'. I get to start to think this programer is getting very expensive from production cost point of view.
any one of 'these' people, for the time spent, probably can make enough money to buy 100 of these. what can I say, a bunch of nuts.
take that back 3 nerds + one nut

Not being the type to normally give up on something.. Your case sure sounds like one that fits into one where I would bin the thing. Next time don't use wood and epoxy instead of wire and solder.

Not being the type to normally repeat things either. that wood is supposedly the last thing right before I solder it to the main board and fix the programmer for good. just by 'flash in the brain' decided to hook it up to PC 1st. and that ends up with this long thread. so may be this is a good thing after all.

but thx for everyone chimed in here. guess I need to wait a month for another programer to come in. Hope we don't have a deja vu here.

now I have my tx opened up, let's switch table to here viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2933#p41982

if you would.

PS: "So one thing has been resolved. Now for the other one..." am I supposed to fantasize what the other one... is.

ya might have to wait a month for a HK programmer but I can send you out a usbasp programmer tomorrow. You'd have it by weeks end. guaranteed to work. Please test it before you start tearing it apart . Check my signature for more info. Heck their cheap -- get 2 of them

Why wait a month... Surely you can pick up one that can be delivered sooner? ... I see that a trusted supplier of working units has responded.. Yup... Get two.

kaos wrote:am I supposed to fantasize what the other one... is.

Ahh.. I was wondering how long it would be before the penny dropped.

hey in all this talk there never was any feedback of the OP, using eepe to update an usbasp. Any thoughts ?

hmmm...........!

To the OP, it is a good method and convinient. for non nerdishh people like me, it is great.

rperkins: that web address is bugged. it leads me to a search page for programmer. HOw about put a web link in your sig.

I used Companion to do mine. No different to Eepe in this case.
On another thread I said this:

After linking up the two programmers. I used Companion9X to program up the old Chinese unit with the 'main'hex' file that Romolo has posted, before hitting the burn button, I added the following into the burn configuration menu of Companion9X in extra arguments '-c usbasp -p atmega8 -P usb' then selected the file to burn... When that was all finished a quick dab with the soldering iron to remove the solder link on J2 completed the operation. That's it

The thread that came from is here. ----> viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1363

*waves to kaos*

Flaps --> thanks. Just goes to show there's no original idea . I know I've read that thread before. Maybe it was subliminal

Kaos ---> exactly what address are you typing in your address bar ?

haha, I think I am all messed up by this programer mess. I copied both address in the address line.
do you have a version without the cable. I obviously already have the cable? also, do you have a version the usb and 10 pin header already removed?

flap30: at the time you wrote that thread, I was looking at it, saying ehm, ehm, ehm,,Ok , OK. Now I am getting a little better to know what you are talking about. I hope. as long as don't read too many ..........

cant put a weblink in signature. I just checked my sites via a proxy. ok. Guessing you miss typed something.
Ever wonder how much ISP's make from redirecting dns errors to search engines $$$

they come with the cable. you can get it without the adapter, that is one of the options. As far as removing the connectors, that isnt an option. I could do that for you , but how you gonna know it works before you start soldering on it

there. fixed up my sig a little. thanks for pointing out the ease of confusion.

kaos wrote:flap30: at the time you wrote that thread, I was looking at it, saying ehm, ehm, ehm,,Ok , OK. Now I am getting a little better to know what you are talking about. I hope. as long as don't read too many ..........

Wasn't my thread. Sure I contributed a bit to it.. All the information you need is on that thread and what I did (as explained on the thread) worked every time with two different types of programmers.

Hope you get sorted soon and back to programming.

rperkins: alright, I will send the order out tomorrow for the one with cable. as for how I know it works without the header, hey I believe honor system still exists in this world. especially for people frequent around here.

flap30: if you are saying programing the usbasp, i hope not. it is guaranteed to work. If you are saying programing the radio. I am. this is my 2nd tx which I 'designed' it to be a modding project. my normal flying radio is my Sky9x Tx.
If I have the time after all this is done. I think I might try the m128 on the stock board swapped out of the Sky9x.

kaos wrote:flap30: if you are saying programing the usbasp, i hope not. it is guaranteed to work.

Ummm.. With regard to the thread that I gave the link for.. Yes that thread is all about programming usbasp's with usbasp's.. So yes. I am saying just that.

Sleep time ...

rperkins: order sent.

Thanks. I just went back and saw your note. I've never noticed the 'Note to seller' before. Gonna have to start watchin for that.

OK, just received the programmer from rperkins. plug in the PC, yeah, the green led is on and recognized as USBASP device.
anything else I can check to see if it is working before I tear the connectors apart?

How about programming the radio. Or at least reading it. All you've done is see if it powers up.

That way you are verifying your existing wiring to the MCU , and verifying that the programmer works.

I would do a couple read or writes in a row. If only the first one works and then you have to unplug and replug the usb i'd start looking at the cap on the reset. Then remove the cap on the reset.

Not sure how others use the radio but i typically.

1. Backup the flash ( the version of er9x i have been using)
2. Backup the eeprom ( my models and settings}
3. Write the latest version of er9x to the flash.
4. Restore the eeprom (my models and settings)